Yes I'll check the subs again tomorrow. Just so I know though, if they are 2ohm, what happens next, should I replace them or use only one? Anyways, results due tomorrow.

The part I cut off only had a fibreglass in front of it, I could see the sub and fibreglass only had two screw holes, perhaps they were just for show? That's why I figured it wasn't going to ruin the box. Essentially, it was taking up quite a chunk of space doing nothing but look pretty, with "Jensen" logo on it

single or dual vioce coil, is there a way to tell by just looking at the sub? What is it and why does it matter?

Lastly, if I were to replace the subs, I'd probably get ones at http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...lenotsupported - Although I'm sure these Jensen subs will perform better when I correct the voltage tomorrow. I'll probably bring down the bass to 9dB or something and crank up the volume to see if they distort. I have a feeling they will work ok for freebies.

On another topic, anyone knows what size are my front speakers? 2003 ES!

 

look up aperiodic subwoofer enclosures
you can mount a large woofer in a small enclosure
but it requires alot of power however

 

i would say mount it correctly and dont just shove it in the trunk or behind a chair as you will absolutely NOT get the same performance from any subwoofer/mount like that. Placement is everything with sound and tuning as well....Just tune to your specs (ear) and you will be fine.

 

if they are:
dual 2 ohm: theyre fine
single 2 ohm: 2 options:
-- new subs or amp so they're compatible
-- you can still use them if the amp is bridgeable to 4 ohms

about the box...what i meant was, were they enclosed behind that part, like you couldnt touch the subs without taking it apart?

a single voice coil sub will have two terminals to connect wires, positive and negative. a dual voice coil sub will have 4 plugs, one positive and one negative for EACH voice coil, so 2 of each. it matters because depending on what your subs are, they could be wired to an ohm load that your amp does not support. i really cant say WHY there are different combinations for subwoofers like single, dual, or 2 or 4 ohm options, but I think its just so people have more options when putting together systems, like how many subs can i connect to this certain amp with this certain ohm load and this certain number of voice coils....etc. you would be surprised how mathematical a good sounding system can get...

about turning things up and down on the amp. turn the voltage to the right setting (2.5) and turn the bass boost all the way down. then, turn your radio to 75% of its full volume. start adjusting the other settings (not input level) with the volume here to get the optimal sound that you want.

 

6.5" but ive read on here (i have an 08 haha) that they are really 6.25 or soemthing odd like that, or maybe 6.75...anyhow, 6.5s will work i believe, but search the forums!

 

Manual says;

Power Output

1% THD+N

Additional Power Output

Dynamic Power

@ < 1%THD+N

Without taking the fibreglass off, no, I would not be able to touch the subs.

Actually my subs have two positives and two negatives, but they are one piece of conductor. It's sort of in L shape, one set is pointing sideways and the other pointing down. I have it connected to the downwards connectors. Didn't think they had a use since it's the same conductor, same piece of metal with two ends. What should I do about that? It's getting needlessly complicated though

 

You arent thinking bandpass are you? Thats what its pointing to. But even if he takes the front off wouldnt it still give him some bass rather than distortion? BTW, youve got SVC subs. Those two different connectors your referring to are just a way of giving you two different options for spade connectors. Yes the speakers all around in the lancer are 6.25". Luckily my pioneers were 6.5" with a 6.25 mounting plate Other than that, I cant really help you too much without knowing the subs specs.

 

ok, so you have single voice coil subs. if they are 2 ohm, you are giving them 90 watts each, if they are 4 ohm, you are giving them 60 watts each. as long as the subs are rated for at least 90 watts RMS, you should be good. also, no need to bridge the amp, seeing as if you have 4 ohm subs, it would overheat the amp (two 4 ohm subs = 2 or 8 ohm total load), and if you have 2 ohm subs you would be getting the same power anyways. see bold text below, this info is correct! lol

yeah im pretty sure he HAD a bandpass box. part of the reason your subs sound so bad, is probably because they were designed for a bandbass box, and now that you have made it a regular ported box, the sound is all distorted and such. go to a local audio shop, even a flea market, and pick up a sealed box. no offense, those subs arent worth the effort of building a nice custom box for. i got a dual 12" sealed box for kicker CVRs a while ago for 40 bucks and it was actually pretty decent!

 

I see. Thanks for explaining to me a lot that I didn't know. I'll fix the voltage tomorrow and see how it works out and hope they don't sound too horrible.

One more thing though, how do you figure out what sub is made for what kind of box. Like the link I have posted above is a nice set of pioneer subs but apart from the fact that they are 4ohm, nothing else is mentioned.

On the second thought, if I don't like my sub at all, I could always use the same good amp to power my kenwood 500watts that are otherwise under-pumped with my 50 watt kenwood head unit!!!

 

If I remember correctly, there was some online calculator that I used to use that you type in a little bit of info and it will build several different box scenarios and dimensions for you. Everyone lately has just been bringing me new subs with the paperwork and that usually tells you the dimensions that the box needs to be so I havent really had to deal with calculating for quite a while. No one ever seems to want a box built for an old sub. Its weird. Usually though, you can just type in the model name and number and do a search online and that will usually yield you box requirements for the specific sub. For example, I have a pioneer Premier TS-W1208D2. I do a search on it by typing in its name and I can find exactly how many cubic feet is necessary for a good enclosure. So by doing this search, I find that 1.25 cubic feet are necessary for a good enclosure. Now I did find the calculator and I know there are several but this is the first one that popped up and it helps although there may be better ones. So go here, http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=5, type in how many cubic feet is necessary which you found when searching for your sub, and it will tell you what the dimensions of a good box would be. You can kinda tweak it from there but it gives you a good idea or ballpark figure if you will of what you should be building. And I know thats a lot of info that you probably didnt need, but if you do decide to go the route of building a box, your welcome lol. Now after Ive typed all that, I think you were actually asking a different question, not how to build a box lol. My subs original package box that it came in states that it can be used in any type of enclosure, sealed, ported, or bandpass. Not to say that all subs can do that cause I know some are designed for specific types of boxes but those are usually the high end ones. The lower end brands usually can go into anything. Your subs would best be set up in a sealed box im sure and I just misunderstood your question and wrote up alot of whats necessary for you to build your own sealed box. Maybe you should try your hand at it. Im sure we'd be more than happy to help you along the way.

 

Thanks lancerman. Correct, it wasn't my question but you've given me a lot to think about. Specially if the subs are weaker, sealed box may just do better and as far as I've heard, my kind of music would sound better with sealed, which is Rock, metallica, pantera and stuff. Of course for my music testing i was trying R&B and stuff as they have the bass to test the sub.

One confusion though, should I get new subs or new box first? I'll think about it and in the mean time today I will set the voltage and gain and stuff and see how these subs do for me.

Once again, thanks very much for all the info throughout the thread and I'm sure I'll be back for more me being the thick skull

 

I'd wager they are DVC (dual voice coil) subs. The coils are wrapped together and may appear as one. You should get a cheap multimeter from Radio Shack to determine what resistence they are. They could either be two 4ohm coils or two 2-ohm coils and how you wire your amp to them wether in series or parrallel, plus wether it is a 2 channel amp being bridged or a 1 channel amp determines the load. IF its too low (most cheap to even moderately expensive amps can't handle below 2ohms) your amp will run hot or burn.

 

if you listen to pantera and metallica and crap why are you even wanting subs? Just get some good coaxiles and they will do the trick for you. I got subs cause my taste isn music is rap/hip hop and techno. Makes them sound a hell of a lot better when you get the bass they were meant to have

 

I listen to all types of music and a good subwoofer is required for almost all genres. Unless you're into female choirs with little to no instrumental accompanyment, a sub is a must.

 

the manual that the sub comes with will have cubic feet necessary. for example, it may say for a sub "Sealed - 1.0 - 2.0 cu.ft." and "Ported - 1.7 - 3.5 cu.ft." every sub is different. it will also tell you exactly how big to make the port (if you choose ported) and at what frequency that will provide. pretty much if you stick to the recommended volume by the manufacturer, you can NOT go wrong.

well really, its an opinion, but id say get a new box first. that way you have your sealed box that you want and you can start fresh with a smaller box to begin with. like i said, see if there are any car audio shops around you and pick up a cheap dual 12" sealed box. they are usually not that expensive.

no, they are single. the 2 positives and 2 negatives he is talking about are connected as one terminal, so no matter which terminal you plug your wire in, it is essentially the same terminal. basically, its 1 positive terminal, with 2 ways to connect the wire, same for the negative.

haha exactly!