Well the w6 hits so hard, its hard to think that its coming from a 12.... but I have a question for you guys...

I am still waiting for my ANL 150A fuse pack to come through the mail, the d8mn USPS lost my package in their system...

So today I decided to hook up a 80A inline fuse to the main power and see what happened, ofc I blew the fuse heh....

Here is the issue though, I am not sure what fuse I blew, I have a 80A in the main inline, a 60A on the 300rms, and a 80A on the 600rms. Neither of the amps turn on when a new fuse is placed inline at the battery...

I am going to go through the install wire by wire, and see if I possibly made a short somewhere... but I am positive I didn't, but I am not going to be mad if I did either.

My troubleshooting steps I took the 80A out of the 600rms power line, and left the 300rms, wired to its 60A power, and place another 80A up in the front. I put power through the wire, and the 300rms amp didn't light up... I am not sure what the issue could be... I have since removed all the fuses and getting ready to wire them to a multimeter and see if they could all be bad, and me putting the new 80A fuse in the power wire will be the only good fuse out of the three...

My question is can you blow all the fuses if there is not enough fuse to hold the power up front?

Either way I am impressed with the w6 and I can't wait to get it wired correctly hah!

 

Oh and I would also like to add that the LN80 that I put for the back channel didn't have any sound coming from it, I knew I shouldn't button her up until I had got those fuses, but oh well thats the joy of system building... this LN80 has gain switches on it so I need to see if that they are turned all the way down...

o0o0o0o0o0o0o

 

whats an LN80? lol and did you check the fuses on the amps themselves? what types of fuses are you using for the amps after the d-block?

 

nvmd, i looked at ur other thread and saw that they are the round type fuses. those are really thr worst type of fuse you can use, they have been known to literally just stop working. try replacing ALL the fuses in the system, even the fuses on the amps if theyre bad

 

okay so I took a multi meter, too it the whole system wire by wire, and it officially set and ready to go. Turned out that I didn't blow any fuse at all, my grounds had 800ohms of resistance to them... so apparently I had a really crappy ground.... it tripped the amps to the point they wouldn't turn on...

Since I was troubleshooting, I went around and discovered the cover came off my drivers door crossover, and was arching inside the door. Not only that but the line into the crossover, one of the terminals was so tight it was shorting out the board, and causing some serious distortion.

Looking behind the headunit, I found that I tapped into a solid black wire, instead of the black red wire.... figured this out from backprobing the headunit. After that went around to every joint, and made tsure were no stray wire hairs

 

whoooooaaa!!! thats like 3 fire hazards there!! i told you man, get new ring terminals for ur grounds and put them on the seat belt bolt!!

 

Well I am good now, i have zero resistance between my grounds, and the chassis... well its like .07-.02... but its not too bad I did get them bolted down... should there be zero resistance in a ground?


I have to figure out why everything is cutting out at a decent volume... I think it might be my fuse up front... I am still waiting for my ANL... I just hope that I don't burn anything up, with out having anything blow...

My question... the ANL protects the main power wire... the lil AUG in line fuses protect the wire and the amp... so if something gets in trouble, and there aren't any shorts... something will blow, no fires right?

 

yeah, something should blow if everything is hooked up correctly, that is why you have fuses to begin with

 

sweet well I redid the grounds I am getting less than -0.02 resistance through the chassis and the grounds on the amp... its a real nice ground

I have a question though my Alpine PDX-1.600 is rated at 600rms, the birthsheet says its benched at 694rms; I have tried adjusting the gain on that amp while measuring the output voltage with a DMM, but at the very miniumal gain (0), the voltage is 52V's which is at about 694watts... is this right?


What does the gain do? I thought with the increase of gain, the increase of volume... which means more volume is more volts which is more watts? I think I may have the wrong idea here, or I might have the wrong setting on my DMM... some input appreciated.


According to this spreadsheet, with the turn of the potentiometer (the gain) the voltage should increase. Which it does... but does that mean the amp is pushing more amperage out with the increased voltage output signal? But I am confused thoroughly

Sparky's Audio System Survival Guide.xls

 

haha youre thinking way too hard man.....

for the gain "select" option, select 1.0 - 8.0
LP filter turn all the way up
subsonic filter 30 Hz
for the gain knob itself, put it at all the way down

now with these settings, turn your radio on and put it at 75% volume. at this listening level, turn the gain up until you get the bass where you want it, without the sub bottoming out (which it shouldnt anyways, its JL).

"gain" is basically telling your amp what your radios RCA output voltage level is, and setting it to that. that is why if you dont use a LOC, and just run your signal wires right from door speakers to the amp, you have to turn the gain all the way down, because the amp thinks your RCAs are 12 volts (or w/e the voltage of your speakers are) and the amp will overpower yoru subs. thats why on Hifonics amps (another reason why I like them so much ) the gain control is actually called "Level" and is a knob that goes from a higher number to a lower number (9 to 0.2), so when your radios RCAs are lower powered (1v - 2v), you turn the gain up, and when you have a real high end radio (8v RCAs) you turn the gain down to compensate.

thats all man. best way to tune a system for yourself is by ear! lol