The clips can be removed. The only one that can't is the MAF signal wire. With the clips removed, use some electrical tape and rewrap the wires. 99.9999999% of the mechs will only unplug the ECU and probe the contact points. Thy won't peel the tape to probe the wire.

 

Very nice, thanks alot for the pics and info...very informative

 

Ok, here is the dyno pull. It seems that the Mitsu 153 rating was dead on. If you calculate a 15-20% difference for the drivetrain. I still think something was fishy with the dyno though. Due to the first pull was only 111 hp and the 2nd jumped to 123.

Anyways, the important thing to look at (not the numbers) and what RRM has been saying all along, is the tq graph. Don't even look at the numbers. Previous dynos were showing the tq falling flat on its face at the 5000 rpm mark. But now, the tq contiues to climp all the way to redline (6500 rpms). That is awesome!!!

All pulls were done in 4th gear.

 

I am new to the ECU stuff. How does the RRM piggy hook up to laptops for reprogramming. USB, Firwire, etc?

 

I was also wondering how the programming is done and what can be changed?

Also Serious08 where did you find those nice red connectors that you used for 3 of the wires? ive seen connectors like that where you put the second wire inside of it but not where you can plug onto it like that. it didn't come with them did it?

 

The top case will unscrew and the cable (I believe Brian mentioned USB) will plug in and then to the laptop.

 

I'm not sure of everything that can be changed, but I know its a lot. Air/Fuel, spark timing, ect. Its designed so that as you add mods like cams, turbo, intake, ect, you can go in and change it.

The piggy comes with all the hardware to mount it. Rob and the rest of the RRM team did a great job. They provide the red splice clips.

 

OK there are a couple problems with the dyno comparisons. The dyno sheet that Blacksheep listed is from AtlanticMotorSport in Maryland and done on a stock Lancer. There is NO way in hell that you are losing 20+ WHP and TQ with a modded Lancer to a stock one. There dyno is a Dynomite and all of there pulls where done in 3rd gear. You arent suppose to do pulls in 4th gears so who ever you went to should have know that. There is no way you can compare these two sheets. Serios8 You need to take your ride to a better shop( Do a little research before you go next time) that has a tuner on hand. Have them hook to your piggy and show you a detailed list of what your a/f and spark are doing and if needed a slight tweak(No two cars are the same so a little tweak can do a lot) during the dyno pulls. The first Dyno sheet from AMS Maryland is dead on so there has to be improvement from that not decline.

 

First you say the correct thing (that they can't be compared).
Then you try to compare the two.

Can't have it both ways.

 

Not on the sheet he has now on a new dyno run it has to show improvement.

 

OK, there's no need for us to have the same conversation in 3 places...

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...=1#post4592293

 

haha oh man, moderator ***** slap

Ok, question for ya, inside the ECU can you change the settings with specifics maps (ie, 87 Octane, 89 Octane, 91 Octane, Good Gas mileage, etc) or would you have to take it to someone who can actually program it.

Also are install instructions provided?

 

For the specifics on what can be changed, you need to contact RRM. The tune that they provide with it is for 87 Octane, better gas milage, more tq.

You can get the program disc from them and tune it yourself also.

Yes instructions are provided.

 

Keep us posted Brian. Glad you like it.

ROAD/RACE

 

that piggy back box you got was for Fuel only not ign (split sec lists that box as fuel only anyways..)

you should be able to get those connectors at any parts place, but as was mentioned they come with the kit

and on the Dyno thing.... I'm not gonna bother comparing or getting into that... however... I've always made my dyno pulls on my 1:1 ratio.. which in the 5spd manuals would be 4th

now if it was a 4spd auto.. it would be 3rd. ofcourse the dyno is to be run however it is PROGRAMED... and the owner/tester will tell you what to do.