It's time for me to write a thread on my build. I'v been working on the lancer for 2 years now and i decided to turbo the 4g94 before i stored the car this winter. I am now in the tuning process and im experiencing a few problems with the tuning but nothing serious that could hurt my engine like knock,i know how to fix that!

Part list (required for the turbo car to run):
Evo 8 td05hr 16g6 9.8t turbo $425
Evo 8 aftermarket stainless exhaust manifold (ported runners and flange to fit the 4g94) $110
Evo 8 aftermarket stainless dump pipe w/O2 housing $50
Evo 8 aftermarket stainless 3'' downpipe $100
Evo 9 j pipe (rewelded flange to fit the evo 8 turbo) $35
Evo 8 maf
Evo 8 oil feed/return lines and fittings $65
Evo 8 water feed/return lines and fittings $30
Evo 8 aftermarket oil sandwich adapter $30
Wrx 440cc blue injectors $60
Spal 12'' radiator pull slim fan $100
K&N cone air filter $45
Greedy type rz bov $100
Aftermarket Intercooler/intercooler piping/couplers $325
Arp head studs $165 (Cancelled)
Spring bolts $8
3'' custom exhaust $275
Castrol gtx 10w40 oil and coolant $75
Vacuum lines and fitings $20
Ecuflash $free
Evoscan v2.7 $free
Evoscan openport 2.0u cable $free (friend)
Total cost yet: +- 2500$

Other mods:
Aem 52mm wideband eugo afr gauge w/single pod $210
Triple A piller pod with egt/psi/oil temperature gauges $315
B&G lowering springs
17'' black motegi mr119 wheels
Sped D front and rear sway bars
Spec D red stitches recaro style racing seats
Tenzo black/red stitches shift knob
D1 spec oil catch can w/small filter

Now time for my tuning problems!
First of all im using the big map w/o the SD just to be clear.
1-I have read in some threads where you have to put 396 injector scaling when you're using the 440cc injectors? Can someone explain what is the real answer because im currently at 440 in the injector scaling and im having idle problems.
2-I have problems with the rev limiter it doesn't have the nice cut off rpm drop like the stock cut off .It's almost like it dropped 10 rpm extremely fast instead of a fluent +-350 rpm drop. My rev limit is at 6203 rpm, my stationary rev limit is at 7750 rpm, my rev limit 2 is at 6062 rpm and my rev limit 2 rpm drop to release is at 344 rpm. Anyone had a problem like this before? Could you tell me how did you fix it please?
3-Iv been trying to disable the rear O2 sensor in the periphery section and i still get the B1S2 heater open circuit! I disabled the rear O2 in Ecu periphery0 (FFA) bits and the P0140 rear O2 no act in Ecu periphery4 (FEA) bits. What else do i have to do to cancel the heater cell of the B1S2 O2 sensor from the obd2 test?
Please try to keep unnecessary comments that won't help me or anyone experiencing similar problems for yourself if possible!
Thanks a lot, marcouxa1

 

Okay, I'll try to help you out. My first question is any main reason you using tephra? I used that at first but found it a little choppy. Big maps was much smoother for me.

 

idle problems might be from your injectors not being scaled correctly. Scale them first and get them within +/- 5% and that should help you. What trims are seeing right now?

 

As I've already told you you want to start your scaling at 10-15% below rated flow which means you want to start anywhere from 374-396. If the fuel trims are still showing that it is adding fuel to get to stoich then you want to lower that number, if it says it is taking fuel away then you raise that numer. Absolutely you are having idling problems because your scaling is set too high and so your leaning out at idle. I wouldnt be surprised if you were getting a system too lean code.

 

Im sorry im dumb im using the big map!

 

Actualy im not im at 13.8-13.9 AFRs at idle. But i will try your latencys and change the scaling to 395 i think is the closest to 396 that i can use in ecuflash. tyvm btw

 

Ok i adjusted the injector latency and scaling but im still having idle problems! i noticed though that when i turn my fans on the idle stays nice and the car doesn't stall! Is it maybe a fuel pump voltage power problem? wires too small for the pump? any ideas about that?

 

??? You changed your fuel pump? Is your bov recirculating?

 

Although I doubt your pump is not getting enough voltage you can use the old dsm trick. Use a relay and run power to your pump directly from the battery. I personally have mine like that I cut the existing wire and used is as the signal wire to kick on the relay. I later learned my pump voltage was not the issue but doing the relay did bring my voltage up. Having my battery mounted in the trunk made this task immensely easy though btw

 

No i have an atmospheric bov but it's closed at idle im pretty sure i checked and adjusted it! And yes i have the 255lph fuel pump.

 

What's up with when i put the fan ON my idle goes up and is better then? i hear the pump louder too?!

 

When you say put the fan on do you mean heater? Or do you mean you turn on the AC which in turn, turns on your cooling fans? The idle settings are different to compensate for the extra load the a/c pump puts on the engine.

Have you tried using a recirc bov? Frome what I have read using a maf you want the bov open at idle hence the need for a recirc bov. Still not sure why they say that but just a thought if you have a recirc bov wouldn't hurt to throw it on real quick.

 

I did not try to recirculate i have a greedy type re bov! and it's when i put the heater on not the ac but my fan does start too when the heater is on though!

 

Smh, this is all yours 03lances...

 

Something is not right there the cooling fans should not turn on when you turn on the heater. Unless your ac is stuck on and I am guessing this is the case it makes perfect sense, this would cause your fans to turn on AND cause your idle to raise. I have had this happen to me my ac was stuck on anytime I turned on my heater, the light was not on but my ac was clearly engaged I could hear the "click" the ac pump makes when the magnetic clutch is engaged. It was like that for about a month before I had to pull the cover off the Hvac controls and remove the plastic buttons to hit the a/c toggle to turn it off. Now I never hit the actual ac button I just turn the knob all the way to max ac which will turn it on when I need it.