Well as it sits now, I have a heavily moded show Lancer. So, now its time for some go fast goodies. And yeah, I know that I will have some serious cash into his project and a turbo on an otherwise stock lancer, will still romp on me. But, it will still be more rewarding to know that I am one of the fastest N/A Lancer's. That in itself is a huge accomplishment. Just think....once Im said and done maybe she'll be boosted, which will provide HUGE gains over most other boosted lancers.

~ Nick ~

 

Wiseco makes the pistons - 435
Rods RRM - 800
Bullfrog Port polish Head, IM, TB, re grind Cams, - 1600 $500 core charge

links:
http://www.mmrusa.com/gudehead.htm
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ghlight=wiseco
http://www.roadracemotorsports.com/

 

You can't just slap a turbo onto an NA lancer, you'd have to change the cam, the ecu, and probably deal with some other crap. Be nice to see some other NA lancers around though,.

 

^^^ What he said. You're basically starting over if you decide to go FI.

 

Only if you go above stage one cam though according to what I have been told. Stage 2 and up you have to start over.

WADAD

 

Things like this are good to know. If I think that I might go FI, I'll stick with Stage 1, if not....2 here I come.

BTW: My goal is to be done with Stage 1 by the end of May, Stage 2 mid August, and Stage 3's parts will be ordered and awaiting install by December and over the winter they will be thrown in.

~ Nick ~

 

Well, I'll let you in on a secret. I'm trying to be the fastest car in my class in my autocross club. I can do just about anything I want as long as I don't install FI- being a very fast NA lancer will just be icing on the cake of an AX trophy. Boe has years of knowledge and RRM behind him. Wadad wants top timeslip numbers. If you really want to be the fastest, or even top 5, I think you're going to have to be more aggressive than a stage 1 cam. Seriously, if you're thinking FI down the road, save your money and do it right and only do it once. Even if you're doing ALL the work yourself (like me) it will be such a headache to remove everything to swap in new stuff for old stuff that no one's going to want to buy because it's all used and probably abused. If you're not doing the work yourself.... well... let's hope you get that promotion you've been asking for

I'm not trying to stop you. I just want you to really think about the upgrade path and not become another guy with aspirations who gives up because he wanted to switch mid-project- and now can't get into it anymore.

 

Don't forget your going to want to leave plenty of time for tuning, and that will be costly. If you get something like a stand alone system your going to need someone to help you get it right or else you can kiss your engine goodbye.

 

I wouldn't go that far. If you don't know what you're doing on the standalone you're more likely to not go anywhere for a long time eManage should be more than plenty unless he decides to do a dedicated all-motor drag car..... in which case you need to dump ALL your RRM stuff and PM mitsiman about a hard-core upgrade path using the finest Australian parts But then this will cost no less than 10K and won't be remotely driveable. (why 10K+? Haltek standalone: $1500. Quad TBs: $1200, stage 2 PnP'd head $1450 [or stage 3] for starters)

 

I truly think I am going to stay N/A. Its more rewarding at the end of the day, knowing how much work you put into everything.

BTW: I just noticed you have a IM ported for sale....how much, did u have it done, and core?

 

I think he did it himself but don't forget to keep an eye on the thread Rhyzin has with his ported G93 swap.

WADAD

 

Good luck Sir Lancerlot but you really have to look toward some power mods. Grounding kit is not going to do anything here and kartboy shifter bushings. I'm going with a much different setup far away from RRM. Consider getting a different header, pistons, and standalone fuel managment system, some stickers (jK). I don't think you need bigger injectors and VR4 MAF if you are getting pretuned piggyback.

 

y so anti-///RRM???

 

Good goals. I was working closely (more like observing) a quad-TBed mirage that I was sure was over 200whp, had it been tuned properly, but it went into a moneypit and never saw dyno time.

As faras your goals are concerned, it is great that you have a plan. I would ditch the RRM piggyback tho for either a GReddy emanage or ful lEMS. That way you have more control over more variables, as opposed to a set piggyback that with further mods, becomes obsolete. Of course the regular intake, exhaust and RPW header (from what I have read, more gains NA than the RRM one). I would go with a really aggressive cam like a Stage 3 (esp. if you have Emanage or full EMS) and of course the valve springs to suit. Porting and polishing will give you some gains but it is very expensive. Nonetheless, porting and polishing of both the intake manifold, the head, and you could port match the exhaust ports to the exhaust manifold. Bigger TB is good; I see yo uwent with the RRM unit. RPW also makes oversized TBs, up to about 70mm I think, with custom IMs to suit. I would not personally go over 60mm (unsure of what the RRM bore is) if yo ustay NA though. Also, other options are the 4G93 IM and of course, the much better MIVEC 4G92 IM. Fuel pressure regulator, FSE makes a good rising rate NA FPR (I think it is 1.7:1).

Shifter bushings and shifter cable bushings should give your car a more precise shifting feel in the 1/4. 370 cc injectors seems like overkill though but with an Emanage, you should have no problem controlling them. If you can get some MIVEC 275cc (4G92) injectors, it would be more suited for your purposes tho. You dont need any forged internals for NA horespower.

One thing you forgot is weight reduction. I know that Wadad didnt do much (or any) weight reduction but for the best times, you can consider removing your AC and PS if you want to be hardcore. As for track days, minor weight reduction can be achieved thru removal of the rear and passenger seats (about 5 minutes work), removal of all trunk accessories (no spare wheel etc another 5 minutes work) and removing any loose dead weight from the car, like books, tools, your girl etc.

Good luck with your project. 200 whp NA is going to be tough, unless you use some sort of bigger induction like twins or quads. I too wanted to be a fast NA car (was actually going to go quads as well) but when I saw the moneypit my buddy was going thru, I just decided to boost. Wrong decision. I am in a moneypit still.

 

That reminds me. I have the B&M shifter.

I really don't see it as a performance mod but I guess it is when it comes to making quick precise shifts.

Good Info AQ

WADAD