just out of curiosity, whats the percent loss of power in rwd?

 

i ahve the stock rims on

 

I thought all those mods would give you more horses than what it shows ina dyno test......

 

smartass you forgot the most important

"lots and lots of gofast stickers"

 

there is no set percentage of hp loss in fwd or rwd, generally rwd loses more but it also depends on manual or auto transmission, gearing, differentials etc.... don't even think about power at the flywheel, cause how many of us will ever test our motors out of the car? it would be much more helpful if you ran the car more than once though, but so would having a baseline on your car. oh well or having an EVO 8 instead

 

That's about right. The humps in the TQ curve is probably shifting from 1st to 2nd as it surges in power to haul butt.

With header, your peak HP and TQ figures have moved a bit. Stock peak TQ is about 4250 rpm, and your is 4500 rpm. Well, your peak HP didn't gain much about 100 rpm (maybe due to the air but it mostly affects forced induction cars).

As for the plateau HP spot between 5400 - 5600 rpm, I don't know . . . should spike a bit more. It's maybe caused by the air, ecu pulled timing a bit, flat spot due to the fuel curve, limitation of the cam profiles, and few others.

 

To figure out this right, I need someone to recall their sprinting experience stock-wise, either manual or slushbox. What was your peak HP and TQ (feels like).

when mine was stock, HP surge was about 4400 or 4500 to 5200 rpm. Afterwards, it started wheezed from the lack of air and died about 5500 rpm.

with intake and header, my peak HP rose to 5600 rpm and died after 6K. then, I noticed I was having flatspots from fuel starvation (not lean condition - just not enough fuel to burn) between the whole 5K range. With another fuel pump, my problem became the opposite - too rich. With AFC, I was able to peak it about 6200 rpm and have hit fuel cut-off at 6700 rom a few times . . . total bog down in speed.

 

Dyno'd my 48000 mile,modified Evo V on a rolling road at Power Engineering in England 18.12.2002 - 337 bhp@7000rpm,318ft/lbs torque @ 3800rpm.Still drives smoothly on the road,used daily.Well pleased!

 

Got a question for all you dyno doing lanced out HP/TQ wanting gooroo's... What gear where you pulling the dyno in. Some say 3rd some say 4th... just wondering? Thanks!

 

i did mine in 3rd...4th is too hazardous because the wheels spin too fast. if something ever happend and the car got loose i'd rather be in 3rd than 4th.

 

Rock on zlancer... thought that was what everyone was doing. 4th seemed wrong to me but just wanted to know. Thanks for the info.

 

The numbers aren't that bad. I dynoed my lancer which basically has a different filter and catback exhaust and i put down 91 whp on a Mustang dyno (which will read about 10% low off of Dynojet dyno) so your mods put you a decent bit up. My torque was also right around 92 ish I believe. My curves are a lot flatter and cleaner. I have to say the falloff on your curve is pretty nasty!!!

Mine was a 3rd gear pull as well. Enkei RS5 17" rims...

3rd gear is also the correct gear to pull in because it is the nearest to 1:1 ratio... which will affect your wheel torque numbers.

here's the thread.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=44553

 

Also,

The SAE correction factors are used to try and minimize the difference between what sea level a dyno is at. So his SAE corrected HP which is what is graphed takes in to account the difference in air density relative to a car that would be dynoed in perfect SAE conditions (SAE is defined as: 77 F, 29.23” Hg, 0% humidity. It is the same thing as 94.4% RAD.)

So all being said... the numbers are about right overall... I think the numbers that magazines have been giving for stock lancers are a bit optimistic.

Lastly... the final word in all this is... dyno to dyno there is so much difference and discrepancy, that the only way you can really be sure what difference your mods make is to dyno before and after each mod. Hence the reason I have a stock dyno now to work from, and will dyno as I add engine upgrades over time. The only accurate baseline is the one form your car on the same dyno before the change.

Later.

Steve