you can't adjust the car in the driveability area... any time the car is in closed loop it will adjust itself.

There is a catch though... if you go bigger injectors well there may be to much fuel for the ecu to compensate for. Thus you'll need to adjust things lower in order for the ecu's fuel trims to zero out(or close to that). At 100% throttle above 2500rpms you should be able to adjust things. However you can only adjust so far before the car will switch back to closed loop as the new Air Flow signals will cause the switch out of open loop. Once you're up to around 3500-4000 you should be able to adjust things to what you want. It should not relearn anything at 100% throttle in that area. Anything lower than 85-90% and your lower numbers could be causing it to swith back to closed loop where it will adjust itself.

Two things you need to fully tune a car with a piggyback... a wideband and an OBD-2 logger. The wideband is self explanatory... the OBD-2 logger allows you to know what the car is seeing/doing as far as fuel trims and open/closed loops. All tuners use them and trying to tune with just a wideband can cause headaches that seem unexplainable.

Go to Digimoto.com and get an ISO logger/reader. It will help you greatly.

 

thats not exactly true cause we aren't using an emanage and we are pretty sure its an injector issue, not related to tuning, although we'll soon find out

 

Man, I'm starting to think that I may have gotten myself into more than I wanted/bargained for getting this emanage. I believe that eventually I will want/need this, but for now, I don't see the result worth the trouble. Instead I'm considering turboing the car and then afterthat, I can consider the emanage.

 

Everything adds up... when your boosting you also need egt on top of the other two. There is a lot to it besides just hooking things up and subtracting fuel. If it were easy everyone would be great at it.

Don't get discouraged though... you have the car... you have the goals... now you just need the pieces to the puzzle in order to accomplish your goals. Going with boost still involves a lot... sure you can mimick what has been proven to work but not every car is the same and your setup will never be exact. This can lead to slight deviations that you won't see without the proper tooling/instruments. Some minor changes may not hurt but then there are some that could make the engine grenade.

Just gotta take baby steps...

 

First to answer your question e-boy yes I have a gauge style AEM UEGO wb02. Also no I don't have any adjustment below 35% throttle because it would be pointless. The ECU readjusts for any adjustment you put in there, the only use I could see for that is if you were maxing out the stock maps and wanted to put the stock maps into a higher airflow cell to get the ECU to compensate. As for the creep over the next 50 miles we'll have to wait and see (I just tuned it recently). I have a question for you boe, are you sure that the air flow readings affect the open loop closed loop transition? I can see your point about OBD2 datalogging, but what I was doing was just watching the A/F ratio. When it is in closed loop the ecu keeps the A/F ratio around 14.5-15.5 and when it switches to open loop it was dropping to about 11 and now I have it set to 13. I haven't noticed that the open loop/closed loop change depends on anything except throttle position. One thing is that I have an automatic, and I think the engine control algorythms are different for the manual and automatic. Let me know if I'm doing anything wrong here.

 

auto's are different... they depend more on the throttle position for open loop and calculated engine load, which uses the MAS signal as well as speed sensor in order to calculate.

However both do use the MAS signal in open loop. What they don't do is read any 02 sensors. They ignore them due to knowing it will be rich and non-adjustable. This is all tuned on a predefined map where the driveability map is a base map with variable parametered cells so the car can deviate certain percentages in order to keep it as close to stoich as possible.

Hope that makes sense?

 

Yeah that makes sense, I already knew part of it. The thing about open loop being based on engine load is something new to me though. When I tuned my car I was on even ground, so maybe I'll try driving on some hills and see what happens. Thanks for the info.

 

Alright had my first real driving in the car in a long time (several weeks). Using the official GReddy cable and my Zeitronix, I managed to get the AFR to stay steady at about 12.6 in 4th gear from 2.7K to just over 4.8K and it didn't show signs of changing. In the lower RPM range it was still approaching 13.1-ish, but I can live with that.

I don't know exactly WHAT the issue was, but it appears to be resolved. GReddy cable, importing the map when I started up, exporting before I closed to go to wideband. THe fuel trim was much much more than I thought it would be, but hey, I can't argue with the numbers. Now I jsut need to get off my lazy *** and go to a track Thanks everyone for putting up with me

 

yess.s.. finally you got it. great job man

 

Goodness
Get it over with already....

WADAD

 

forizzle

 

Zlancer, if you decide to sell it let me know. I pm'd you

 

This is why i only use their cable... some get the pirated stuff to work but i've heard most don't.

 

Ultimately I needed to take out more fuel that I realized. I was reminded by another thread that adding cams usually riches the ECUs mix so I went for "broke" as it were and it ended up working out.

I'm not going to say it wasn't the cable, but For $113 I paid for it, I'm just going to say it worked some kind of hoodoo on the eM

 

Al, can you make a seperate post with a review of having the e-managed tuned? I know there's a lot of threads about tuning it... etc. but How about a seperate one with a review?