Puffing White Smoke Out From the Exhaust
#16
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Originally Posted by Alchemist
Stock water temp gauge is ***. If you're gonna worry about it, get an aftermarket one that actually tells you the temp.
Before you rip everything apart buy a compression tester and check the compression in the cylinders. It should be at least 180 (IIRC, someone correct me if I'm work). It could be you have a coolant leak into your turbo, since that's how you're cooling it.
Before you rip everything apart buy a compression tester and check the compression in the cylinders. It should be at least 180 (IIRC, someone correct me if I'm work). It could be you have a coolant leak into your turbo, since that's how you're cooling it.
Thanks for all the advise guys.
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Just did a compression test and here is the result.
1- 185
2- 190
3- 190
4- 185
So I guess there is nothing wrong with the internals, probably a leak from the turbo.
1- 185
2- 190
3- 190
4- 185
So I guess there is nothing wrong with the internals, probably a leak from the turbo.
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There might be just a leak on your watercooler. Or it's puffing white smoke because it's evaporating your water/coolant! I never have to use a watercooler since it's just 5psi?
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Originally Posted by initialDRacer
What's the smell of the smoke? Is it burning oil or water evaporation?
OH yah, how did you test the compression?
OH yah, how did you test the compression?
Since I am only boosting the 5 psi, should I unhook my coolant lines?
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Well I started the car again (no driving), I let it idle for about 5 min then the white smoke started to come again. I let my brother rev it up a few times as I watch the muffler. It's difinetly shooting white smoke and water. So my best bet right now is that my coolant in the turbo is burning. So, should I unhook the coolant supplies for the turbo?
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Why is it doing that? Is the water going inside the exhaust side of your turbo and not recirculating back to the radiator? How is your oil cooler and watercooler connected to the turbo?
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Originally Posted by initialDRacer
Why is it doing that? Is the water going inside the exhaust side of your turbo and not recirculating back to the radiator? How is your oil cooler and watercooler connected to the turbo?
This is the pic how I T'ed my coolat lines.
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Start your car and let it warm up to normal temperature. If it's the head gasket it will smoke worse when the engine warms up because everything expands and the leak gets worse. After your car starts and is at normal temp. disconnect your spark plug wires or coil just to keep the car from being able to start. Pull one spark plug out at a time and try to turn the engine over. Have someone watching your engine bay. Watch for any fluid ejecting out of that cylinder and repeat it until you check all of them. My hunch on this is you fried your head gasket on the front side of the engine. Blocking your exhaust passageways with a flange thats not made for your car and doesnt match your ports probably created alot of extra heat in one concentrated area.
Example:
It is possible to check your oil and water and not notice them mixing. If you do a full oil change and put one quart in while everything is off to do a flush and you still dont see it your engine should be ok unless your head cracked by a coolant passage. If you can take your turbo off the car and start it with the header open, and if it still smokes its deffinitly in your engine. The turbo lancer we did also had a oil/water cooled turbo on it but we only hooked up oil to it. Try what I said and let me know if you find anything new.
Example:
It is possible to check your oil and water and not notice them mixing. If you do a full oil change and put one quart in while everything is off to do a flush and you still dont see it your engine should be ok unless your head cracked by a coolant passage. If you can take your turbo off the car and start it with the header open, and if it still smokes its deffinitly in your engine. The turbo lancer we did also had a oil/water cooled turbo on it but we only hooked up oil to it. Try what I said and let me know if you find anything new.
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Originally Posted by Evodreamer28
Start your car and let it warm up to normal temperature. If it's the head gasket it will smoke worse when the engine warms up because everything expands and the leak gets worse. After your car starts and is at normal temp. disconnect your spark plug wires or coil just to keep the car from being able to start. Pull one spark plug out at a time and try to turn the engine over. Have someone watching your engine bay. Watch for any fluid ejecting out of that cylinder and repeat it until you check all of them. My hunch on this is you fried your head gasket on the front side of the engine. Blocking your exhaust passageways with a flange thats not made for your car and doesnt match your ports probably created alot of extra heat in one concentrated area.
Example:
It is possible to check your oil and water and not notice them mixing. If you do a full oil change and put one quart in while everything is off to do a flush and you still dont see it your engine should be ok unless your head cracked by a coolant passage. If you can take your turbo off the car and start it with the header open, and if it still smokes its deffinitly in your engine. The turbo lancer we did also had a oil/water cooled turbo on it but we only hooked up oil to it. Try what I said and let me know if you find anything new.
Example:
It is possible to check your oil and water and not notice them mixing. If you do a full oil change and put one quart in while everything is off to do a flush and you still dont see it your engine should be ok unless your head cracked by a coolant passage. If you can take your turbo off the car and start it with the header open, and if it still smokes its deffinitly in your engine. The turbo lancer we did also had a oil/water cooled turbo on it but we only hooked up oil to it. Try what I said and let me know if you find anything new.
Hey thanks for the input. I might probably try that. The picture you post isn't the same as mine. My 2 middle port perpectly match (100%) and the 2 outer ones are about 90% match, so I don't that's causing it, .
#26
The problem with unhooking the coolant line is the car needs to be hot when your testing theory's. It doesnt take much to fry a turbo and if you let it over heat or starve it for even 1 minute you can do damage. Just be real carefull because at this point any mistakes are going to be costly. Do you notice your engine getting progressively harder to turn over since the time this began until now? Or do you turn the key and it fires right up? How much is smoking at its worst, I know it's hard to say but is it pooring out or is just little?
#27
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If its kind of blueish white your turbo might be letting some oil into the exhaust, into the downpipe, like mine did the oil seal might have went. If your oil return line is restrictive at all. It needs to be a straight down shot. Does the car blow smoke cruising on the highway? Cause mine didnt, only when the car came back down to an idle after building up oil pressure running high revs and then idling with all that pressure in the turbo. Or mine also did blow smoke at start up. GOOD LUCK!
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I just finished taking parts apart. (yeah late at night). Here is what I found, just like what Ryan said, my oil return line could be restrictive and he is right and causing to burn it . I took the hodside off from the turbo and it's freakin oily, even the O2 housing.
Here are some pics.
You can easily tell it's very oily. I know it's normal to be oily but that's too much. My solution is go out to tomorrow and buy a another oil pan (silver one) and re-tap it where it will flow better. (I'll take it to the shop this time ) Good thing I work for Mitsubishi/Subaru and will only cost me a bit cheaper. I am positive this is the problem been causing to shoot lots of freakin smoke.
Not trying to be off topic, but should I get 10.5 Hotside later?
Here are some pics.
You can easily tell it's very oily. I know it's normal to be oily but that's too much. My solution is go out to tomorrow and buy a another oil pan (silver one) and re-tap it where it will flow better. (I'll take it to the shop this time ) Good thing I work for Mitsubishi/Subaru and will only cost me a bit cheaper. I am positive this is the problem been causing to shoot lots of freakin smoke.
Not trying to be off topic, but should I get 10.5 Hotside later?
Last edited by AznFlip; Aug 20, 2005 at 01:10 AM.
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Originally Posted by Z_Lancer_Man
^^ Wow, that is an oily mess. Hopefully after getting it cleaned up and a new pan tapped your problem will go away. I would hate to see something major happen to the car right after you turbo it. Good luck