Get the eManage/piggy to remove fuel. you're still running too rich for those mods to be fully taken advantage of. Exhaust can wait. Spend the money on keeping your engine from blowing apart (again?). You don't need to buy a WBO2 if you go to a dyno, but the WB can be useful if you keep your laptop with you and want to check things on a longer road trip (and it'll save you $$ on having to "rent" the one at the dyno)

I rarely come around anymore. No innovations (cause the G94 is kinda suxor and it's the retarded stepchild to the G69 and the Evos), prices through the roof (hopefully RPW will start being competitive and that will change) and I'm sick of reading pages of bickering over topics that were covered in 2003 (or that will never be solved as long as we use an internal cumbustion engine- like what size exhaust to get, or which intake is better).

Take care of that engine!

 

Yeah I've been looking at upgrading lately as well, maybe keep my money and buy myself a ralliart when I graduate.

 

So about how much hp are you putting to the ground with your current mods ambystom? And around how much more is expected with your upcoming mods?

 

No idea in terms of what I have now, people keep on telling me to go to a dyno, but I just haven't had time. Eventually I'll get around to it though. I would be happy if I gained like 20hp over stock, but I think that may be a little overly optimistic considering I haven't done any ECU modifications. With everything done (still got exhaust, emanage, cam, and ported head to go) I would like to be at like 150hp or so. It'd be nice to simply have a nice and nippy street car, but stay NA.

 

yah i know what u mean.

 

can some1 explain to me what these phenolic spacers are? Are these like the throttle body inserts that add spin to the air? I don't know exactly what these are. . .

 

Gaskets that reduce heat absorption.

WADAD

 

are phenolic spacers direct bolt in ?

 

Yes, they are bolt in but they are expensive, hard to find, and not worth the benefits. Sorry I didn't join this thread earlier I haven't been on the boards as much. Greg, Amby, and I are the only ones that frequent the boards often and have high compression pistons. I've probably done more researching than most people on the board so I'll offer my input. Like Alchemist said, get a wideband and an e-manage. Tuning is NOT expensive if you do it yourself and if you aren't touching timing; just air/fuel mixtures, a piggyback should do you just fine. The benefit of choosing this over the cam is A) You can make your engine have a much broader powerband. and B) The wideband and E-manage can transfer over to whatever car you eventually get. The cam, while providing decent gains, would be useless without a wideband and a tune anyhow. I say save your money for the ralliart, but spend the money on the wideband and the S-AFC anyways. You will learn a lot from doing it and I wouldn't be surprised to see you gain another 5-10whp from a nice conservative tune anyhow. I wouldn't recommend getting a CAI, stick with a Short Ram for Torque. You live up in Canada anyhow so the intake charge getting hot is hardly an issue. If you have any questions feel free to pm me or Greg.

 

try contacting http://www.outlawengineering.com/index.html
thats their specialty and they make a kit for my v6 for 100$

the prob is the gains pushed out of 4 cyl usually aren't worth it, but you dont know until you try it (or someone else does), ECU management is the key to the lancer in N/A form

 

Yeah I figured I'd get a wideband and emanage/piggyback next. I already got the exhaust coming cause the deal was simply too good to pass up (300$ CAD for a full greddy catback). What I was thinking was get the wideband and ecu, monitor the engine, maybe do a little tuning and then if/when I buy a cam and a ported head I have all I need to maximize my gains from those mods.

 

Thx for mentioning me Frank.


Emanage + dyno, and then a wideband.
Let's start a donation for a dyno for Amby....oh wait....no. He just bought an exhaust.

 

Sometimes Emanage goes on sale on automotive forums for $300-$400ish used (Canadian Funds) Keep your eyes open and brows many of boards, I will keep my eyes open though. The piggyback option is better now that there is the software available, It makes it much more efficent for your mods.

If you are doing exhaust remember that the downpipe, cats, and centerpipe are the most restrictive parts of our exhaust, the downpipe being the most restrictive. TOo many people simply do an axle back or a cat-back and wonder why they didnt really get any gains.

As far as the rest of fule mods go, I would just leave them as they are, if you want to start upgrading talk to your local machine shop (tool and die) and get them to bore out your fuel rail for you. There are quite a few things you can do to the 4G94 Engine yourself. It's mindbogaling to me how kids are spending hundreds of hundreds of dollers on stuff that they can just modify/make themselves. I guess the days of the real backyard tuners are over though, we are few and far between.

 

I have a bored fuel rail, so I guess my fuel needs are met. I was thinking about the downpipe, only problem is currently I'd need to buy a brand new header to get one. Oh and Greg, I'll try and get a dyno in like April or so.

 

yes and no. i completely agree that people modding their cars should try to do as much of the work as they can themselves. BUT a local machine shop is NOT going to know what would be a good bore for the lancer, a place like RRM knows this. you need to be careful with boring, too much can be bad. and without flow/bench testing, i wouldnt trust a hole in the wall shop to just bore my stuff.