General info on Deyeme engine mounts
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From: Otsego Minnesota
General info on Deyeme engine mounts
Ok today I almost got both the front and rear mounts installed. I was one bolt and 20mins short on getting the rear done before work. Anyway Im going to tell you all how I went about this because there was a post a ways back that talked about removing the starter and other stuff.
Tools needed:
14mm combination wrench
14mm regular and deep socket
17mm combination wrench
17mm socket
1 extension
Jack
2 jack stands
First get the car in the air so you can get all the way underneath it. The front one is rather simple. The bolts on it are all 14mm. I loosened the one going through the mount first to see if the mount had a load on it and it didnt so it came right out. The mount is bolted to the frame with 2 bolts. The front bolt can be removed with the socket and extension. The rear is a bit tedious, I did it with the combination wrench 1/8 of a turn at a time. It eventually comes out. The new one goes in the same the other comes out.
Next is the fun part. The rear is a real *****, I will finish it in the morning. The bolts on the mount are all 14mm. First I took the bolt out that goes through the mount to see if there was a load on it, and there once again wasnt (I remember someone saying the engine would have to be jacked up for the rear one, but it wasnt the case). Then I took the 3 of the 4 that hold it too the frame off with the combination wrench because there is VERY little clearance. The one on the front right side I used the 14mm socket and U-joint on. Now that the mount itself is free you think your done right? Wrong buffalo breath! There is no way to pull the mount out cuz its huge. Now the bracket that is on the back of the engine/transmission needs to be removed. This is what screwed me over for time. 3 bolts on this and they are REALLY torqued. Use the 18mm wrench or socket, I used both to get this off. I only got 2 of the 3 before I ran out of time. Im telling you ya need to take some ripped fuel or ephedra or something before attempting this cause you need strength. As far as I can tell this is all that is required to get the rear.
Here are my warnings. If you are a wimp dont try this. If you are a mechanical idiot (this includes a lot of you on here) dont try it. If you dont have the tools listed dont try it because that is the minimum required. If you still want these take it in and have someone else do it.
On a side note I had to put the car back together so I could get to work (raining, so the bike wasnt an option). Someone else mentioned the vibration these cause. Well I am only running on one and when the car is at its lowest idle it really vibrates, smooth as usual when above 1000 rpm. Some of this I attribute to the fact the front insnt moving anymore and the rear being stock is moving twice as much now, so any opinion on the vibration wouldnt be fair until the rear is in. This leads to my next recommendation. If you get these, get both because if you only do the front you are gonna hate your car. BTW I got the firm ones.
Anyway I just wanted to throw some info out there for you all and get a thread started for this install. When I get the rear in I will post a parts review after I run around with it for a few days.
Tools needed:
14mm combination wrench
14mm regular and deep socket
17mm combination wrench
17mm socket
1 extension
Jack
2 jack stands
First get the car in the air so you can get all the way underneath it. The front one is rather simple. The bolts on it are all 14mm. I loosened the one going through the mount first to see if the mount had a load on it and it didnt so it came right out. The mount is bolted to the frame with 2 bolts. The front bolt can be removed with the socket and extension. The rear is a bit tedious, I did it with the combination wrench 1/8 of a turn at a time. It eventually comes out. The new one goes in the same the other comes out.
Next is the fun part. The rear is a real *****, I will finish it in the morning. The bolts on the mount are all 14mm. First I took the bolt out that goes through the mount to see if there was a load on it, and there once again wasnt (I remember someone saying the engine would have to be jacked up for the rear one, but it wasnt the case). Then I took the 3 of the 4 that hold it too the frame off with the combination wrench because there is VERY little clearance. The one on the front right side I used the 14mm socket and U-joint on. Now that the mount itself is free you think your done right? Wrong buffalo breath! There is no way to pull the mount out cuz its huge. Now the bracket that is on the back of the engine/transmission needs to be removed. This is what screwed me over for time. 3 bolts on this and they are REALLY torqued. Use the 18mm wrench or socket, I used both to get this off. I only got 2 of the 3 before I ran out of time. Im telling you ya need to take some ripped fuel or ephedra or something before attempting this cause you need strength. As far as I can tell this is all that is required to get the rear.
Here are my warnings. If you are a wimp dont try this. If you are a mechanical idiot (this includes a lot of you on here) dont try it. If you dont have the tools listed dont try it because that is the minimum required. If you still want these take it in and have someone else do it.
On a side note I had to put the car back together so I could get to work (raining, so the bike wasnt an option). Someone else mentioned the vibration these cause. Well I am only running on one and when the car is at its lowest idle it really vibrates, smooth as usual when above 1000 rpm. Some of this I attribute to the fact the front insnt moving anymore and the rear being stock is moving twice as much now, so any opinion on the vibration wouldnt be fair until the rear is in. This leads to my next recommendation. If you get these, get both because if you only do the front you are gonna hate your car. BTW I got the firm ones.
Anyway I just wanted to throw some info out there for you all and get a thread started for this install. When I get the rear in I will post a parts review after I run around with it for a few days.
Last edited by airlinevomitbag; May 1, 2003 at 11:56 PM.
Originally posted by airlinevomitbag
the rear really pissed me off!
the rear really pissed me off!
Thread Starter
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From: Otsego Minnesota
A little preliminary info. The vibration I was *****ing about before was greatly reduced after I got the rear mount on today. There is still a little at my cars lowest idle which is like 600 RPMs (dont ask me why) sometimes. If it is idling normal (750) feels normal. Front bumper vibrates now, gotta fix that. Is there such a thing as drivetrain response? If there is I definitely have it. The *** dyno tells me the car is definitely different. The gears (I have MT) are rather snappy now, whether the gas is on the floor or normal driving. You have no idea how much your car rubbernecks on take off and between gears till you change the mounts. So far so good.
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avb, that picture is freakin' hilarious.
BTW, what's that little blue car with the pink trunk? Is that your track car? It's HOT! 
Seriously, thanks for the install guide, yours and sdhtown's sway bar installs are heading up the US Lancer How Tos/Installs section.
BTW, what's that little blue car with the pink trunk? Is that your track car? It's HOT! 
Seriously, thanks for the install guide, yours and sdhtown's sway bar installs are heading up the US Lancer How Tos/Installs section.
Originally posted by HobieKopek
avb, that picture is freakin' hilarious.
BTW, what's that little blue car with the pink trunk? Is that your track car?
avb, that picture is freakin' hilarious.
BTW, what's that little blue car with the pink trunk? Is that your track car?
the images....... lol that was hilarious andrew......
oh i forgot to ask .... so by snappy did he mean the car jerks into the gear???? i was under the impression that these mounts would smoothen out the ride, ( better ride quality) was told that after sway bars and such that make you feel every crack in the road the mounts would make the ride quality better.
i don't understand cuz to me if your stiffening the mounts wouldn't you feel more of the engine vibration and the road as well...?
andrew / airlinevomitbag, wanna be a pal and set me straight?
i don't understand cuz to me if your stiffening the mounts wouldn't you feel more of the engine vibration and the road as well...?
andrew / airlinevomitbag, wanna be a pal and set me straight?
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
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From: Otsego Minnesota
Well it definitely doesnt smooth anything out at idle. It vibrates pretty annoyingly, almost like the car is running like **** except I know that it isnt. Anywhere but idle I think it may actually be smoother, switching gears is definitely smoother. The mounts are for the engine not the suspension so they won't have anything to do with road vibration. Im gonna dump some fuel cleaner in my car tomorrow see if I can get the car to idle right and maybe the vibes will diminish. If not I guess the next step is AFC.
Oh and Andrew the Barbie Hot Rod in the background belongs to my niece, I dont get it untill she turns 16 and she is 3 now
so Im stuck with the lancer
Oh and Andrew the Barbie Hot Rod in the background belongs to my niece, I dont get it untill she turns 16 and she is 3 now
so Im stuck with the lancer
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