If you aren't even sure which end the pistons are removed from I wouldn't recommend doing the job yourself. But a compression test will narrow down which cylinder (if any) is leaking, causing you to burn oil. You may find that the compression is low in all cylinders from the water getting into your engine. A compression test is where you need to start and then go from there. There are many, many things that can be wrong. You need to start eliminating possibilities. Keep us posted as to what's happening.

 

ok, you guys have been very helpful. the car is in the body shop as we speak and should be back on the road in the next few weeks. drove it last night for the first time in a year and i cant tell you how much ive missed this car. it is completely different now than what it once was however. i will get the compression test as soon as possible. and let you guys know whats going on. thanks again.

 

Yea i drove through some deep water early in the summer and the car ran fine for a few days and then it stalled out once and ever since then i'v also had a misfire at idle only though. It drives fine but at idle it has a random misfire that jumps from cyl to cyl. Also only after the car warms up. I'v also changed plugs,wires coil packs,etc. I would do a compression check for sure just to make sure your engine is alright. Mine came out to be about 185/195 across the board. I think it was said before but check your vac lines,fuel pressure,correct plug gap,make sure you reset the comp correctly,your pcv valve all the easy things first, also if your cel is on see what code it is throwing. I still can't find my prob and i might just give in and take it to mits. But it might be a boost leak or weak pump. Let me know if you fix the prob cause once in awhile my car will hesitate around 4000 rpm.

 

i dont know what to tell ya cause i did the same but i also threw a rod threw the block

 

ok, just got done doing a compression test. warmed the car up to temp and followed the service manual instructions. did it twice in a row, the second with oil added to the cylinders. let the engine turn over about ten times for each cylinder.

first test: 185 185 190 187

second test (with oil): 200 190 202 208

now according to the service manual, stock compression is 234 and the minimum is 170. that would mean im above the minimum, but way below normal. and it doesnt seem that the pressure raised all that much when i added oil so i dont think the rings are bad. unless that is enough of a change to constitue bad rings. let me know what anyone thinks.

 

ok, was able to drive the car the other night and i experienced the miss right around 4200 rpm. it actually feels like more of a fuel cut than anything. i dont know why my fuel would be cutting out at around 4000 rpm. any other ideas?

 

bump

 

dude my car does that too, i think my tb gasket is leaking!!!!

 

ok, found another thread with MANY cars having the same problem im having...but theyre all evos...
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=134733

 

Could be fuel related. Like a partially clogged injector(s), fuel filter, restricted sock on the fuel pump.

Try hooking up a fuel gauge and see if pressure drops while your experiencing the problem. Or pressure is low to begin with.
Also, maybe a contaminated MAF sensor due to water that it took in.

 

well, i ran a can of seafoam through my fuel so the injectors should be pretty clean. the car only has 60K miles on it. im about to put a higher flowing fuel pump on so ill see if that does anything. but if the MAF were contaminated wouldnt there be problems elsewhere?

 

Even though you ran Seafoam in it.
If the pintle on the injector(s) or the coils in there that activate it is somehow not to specs, it won't matter if the actual injector(s) is bad.
I might be stretching if it was the MAF, but you took in water so anything could be at fault. Won't hurt if you tried a known good one. Borrow a friend or something just to test.

Really need to put a fuel gauge in it to determine if your getting the right fuel pressure though.

 

well i have an adjustable FPR with a gauge and its set at 44 psi. it dips down slightly when i rev but instantly comes back up. and if an injector was bad, wouldnt i get a misfire code? no codes have shown up at all.

 

What does your Fp gauge read when the problem occurs?
Yes you will get a code for misfire if it happens all the time.
I think ECU's are program to read 50+ misfires before it will trigger the light to confirm there is a problem.
I once had bad plugs and misfired miserably but no codes were stored. Changed them out and they were fine.

 

smell the oil, if it smells like gas then its a ring... best of luck