reddog i don't think you can down grade your oil like that i thought that if you put a blen in or a full synthetic that you can't come down in oil grade only up. i'am not fully sure someone help me out on this...

 

from what i was told you can change out of your current oil...the only factor you need to realize is if you wanna loose the money you have been spending on synthetic...

 

hmmm, now I'm curious!
Why would you blame it on the oil used?
It would be a different story if you had lack of oil in the engine.

 

i don't believe it. i've run full synthetic mobil 1 15w50 for over a year now with my turbo and everything is perfect on my motor. this oil is actually thick and can handle high heat appliciatons.

 

hmmmm all these diffrent opinions i'll just keep my blend it seems to be fine so that's what i'am gonna do until this whole thing is put to rest.....

 

Will try to look up the oil pump from the dealership . . . but SATAN is really not helping in their parts department.


Things to consider:
1) driver error = spinning absurd rpms.
2) neglect = low oil w/o the driver's knowledge
3) is the oil pump the same as the G93 and G94? If not, there has to be another problem.
4) syth oil is really the culprit. if so, what about the slew of people never had problems with them?

This is how you do research into a problem. Blaming what is or not doesn't solve anything.

Already proven that the oil pressure sensor is the same between the G93 and G94. Look below links.

 

. . .

 

There seems to be some fundamental misunderstandings about oil, in general, and synthetics particularly. Don't equate high viscosity oils with the ability to deal with heat. The opposite is true. The oil in your engine also serves to dissapate heat to the atmosphere. Thick oil doesn't flow as freely and thus retains more heat. If you follow the line of reasoning stated above, the coolant in your radiator would look like jello - not the free-flowing liquid that it is. Mobil has recently introduced a lower viscosity synthetic (0W-15 or 30, I believe) and manufacturers use lower viscosity oils for better heat dissapation so the engines can run hotter for better emission control. You can have oil pressure up the ying yang, but if it's because of restricted passages or the result of using too high a viscosity oil, then it isn't getting to the parts it's supposed to lubricate, thus inadequate lubrication. Read your owner's manual about recommended oil viscosities. Next time an engine builder tells you to use high viscosity oils in modern engines, ask to see his Phd in chemistry and engineering.

As a side note, I ran an Isuzu RS DOHC 1.6L (redline 7700 rpm - which it saw with some regularity) for a quarter-million miles and the engine never had to come apart. Nothing but Mobile 1 every 3000 miles. Currently use nothing but synthetic in my Corvette.

Adios,

Fusoguy

 

Interesting notes: Oil pressure sensor
part #: P4030-84358

http://www.drivewire.com/mitsubiship...mirage1.8.html
G93 from 97-02

http://www.drivewire.com/mitsubiship...lancer2.0.html
G94 from 02 to whenever



Part #: 4030-63562

1997-02 G15
http://www.drivewire.com/mitsubiship...mirage1.5.html

1g DSM
http://www.drivewire.com/mitsubiship...se2.0dohc.html

2g DSM
http://www.drivewire.com/mitsubiship...0turbo4wd.html[

 

Deffently not the synthetic oil's fault. I don't know who told you that but they are full of BS.

 

i dunno.. im running Mobil 1 supersyn 0w30 for about 8k miles now with no problem.. i was told that 0w30 is better for high revv NA engines cuz its lighter. I guess this one is about personal opinions.. but thanx for the heads up Chris! and sorry to hear bout your block.. that blows.. well.. atleast you can toss those forged pistons in now

 

those small con rods kinda scare me! best of luck to you and your motor.

 

What oil they use in dealers?

 

Okay to start it appears from the picture that the #4 rod got hot on the large end at the top. Unless you ran the car for any period of time once it spun the bearing that is not right.

Synthetic oil is not the problem, there is no arguement. 99.9 percent of the time you lost oil to the bearing since it is #4 it is the farthest from the pump. You lost oil pressure, plain and simple.
Disassemble the oil pump and check all the clearance to see if they are within spec.
Next, you can't expect the motor to have held up under boost if it was not designed that way internally. Have you checked all the rods for striaghtness? And again that rod is now no good and if you are boosting then you should replacing all of the rods anyway. The slightest bend in that rod can and will spin that bearing.
Any questions?

 

Sorry but that's not even close. The viscosity of the oil relates to cold and warm temperature and it willingness to flow.

If you want to run Synthetic then you should use the Manufactures recommended weight of oil. That is determined by clearances and orifice sizes inside the motor. Too thick an oil can cause lifter pump,etc.

Anyone who wats to know about oil, it's all there on the internet and Mobil1 explains it all on their site too.