Okay the SITC from Apexi is in the $270 to $320 price range (retail is much higher). The SAFC is in the $290 to $320 price range.

The Greddy E-Manage (the unit I use) controls ignition timing and fuel timing in a much more refined and exacting manner. $300 (but you need software for $130, and laptop...I can make the harnesses for it I'm sure...just need to test it out on mine first and then I will sell them for 1/4 the cost that Greddy charges for the harnesses).

You don't need any type of ignition system on a stock Lancer or even a modified one...until you are pushing some serious power. Now the igntion timing control computers are very useful.

You might want to check into the Centerforce Dual Friction or the ACT 2100 for the Mirage 1.8L. The 4G94 block is almost gauranteed to use the same flywheel and clutch as the mirage (well if someone lets me work on their car I could verify all of this for certain and bust your aftermarket options wide open....hint, hint). I could probably verify what RPW equipment will work for you without the need to wait for special fitment testing to be conducted.

Sorry but Venom unit is crap....they even openly admit on their website that you gain nothing with it (oooohhh 20% gain in power at 50% throttle...what the hell?? Just push the peddle down more and you get the same results...then they show dynos at WOT you gain no power. It is useless by thier own admission unless they changed the dyno sheets and such that I saw over a year ago).

 

OK thats all and well Dude. Greddy E-Manage is piggy-back engine management? But is it worth using in the early stages of build up? Also how does the laptop data logging prog work?

 

The datalogger sees anything what your ecu is reading off its sensors.

Okay, as for the MSD thing, I'm getting conflicting reports. I'm trying to track down people w/ negative response from using it. Whether it's true or not, I'll get the bottom of it.

http://pub29.ezboard.com/fmirageperf...cID=2165.topic

Above link on the topic on the mirage board.

Yes, the Greddy unit is piggy-back.

 

Well it depends on what you are building it up for.

Lets say for example you are going turbo. Would you slap a turbo kit on it with either large injectors and have a crappy idle, burn exhaust valves, clog the catalytic convertors and then start to think about engine management? Or maybe you would keep the stock injectors and use a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. Now all of a sudden it is a cold day or you change altitude by a good 1000ft (closer to sea level)...well guess what? Chances are your "good enough" setup is now going to kill your engine from running lean...it isn't good to say, " damn wish I had the tuning equipment" after your engine is blown.

I know, I know...everybody just wants more power now and don't want to think about what it takes to support the power but that is the path of foolishness...

Oh you can gain some power on a stock motor you know:
1. First you can fill the tank with 92 or 93 octane and then adjust the ignition timing to take advantage of it (with the Greddy you can also have a stock igntion timing map ready to go if you are low on cash for gas)...that is definitely worth some pickup throughout the whole range of the engine.
2. You can DUMP the MAF restrictor and pick up some pretty good power...I have it removed from my MAF right now since I am running the e-Manage.
3. Stock is always oriented towards economy and emissions with power being secondary...with a dyno you could correct that deficiency and look for power first then emissions and economy last. Just have a fuel map stored that gives good emissions for when you go to get tested.

 

About the clutches, I had a Centerforce Dual-Friction in my 1G Eclipse and it was awsome, if I ever replace this clutch with a performance one Centerforce is what I'm getting.

Just my $.02

 

I have a centerforce dual friction right now also. So far it is working great. Stock clutch had plenty of meat on it and couldn't hold my power for anything...now the centerforce will hold it all (pedal pressure feels about the same to me as stock).

 

Well I'm undertaking a non forced build up first. I want to maximize the block's natural potential first. Then I want to finish it off with a small turbo. I was thinking about 11:1 compression along with getting the engine reving out that TACH to 8000RPM. How would you recommend doing this? Engine only though not concerned with the Drivetrain at this point.

 

With 11:1 CR, you're not going to use Turbo. Too high to use w/o blowing up.

As for the 8K redline, even w/ forged and lightened material, your longer conrods can't that much abuse . . . not even w/ the same above method done to the 1.8 (shorter) conrods, I can't see it revving that high too.

You have more chance of hitting the fuel-limiter than hitting such rpm . . . that can't be change (programmed into the ecu on the fuel limit).

 

Fuel cut is at 6500 I believe. As for the 11:1 that would drop upon install of the Turbo. Problem is with reving, because if it can't rev then how can it make power naturally? Unless I can manage to get the powerband starting at 1000RPM and working its way up to 6000RPM. Any suggestions?

 

Turbo, you need to drop in under 9.1 CR . . . only one guy I know is trying to do 9:5.1 CR on his 1g DSM . . . a lot of tuning is needed.

The laws of physic have its effect here. Your longer conrods were designed for TQ on the low end, not revving in the upper rpm. With shorter conrods in the 1.6L MIVEC (TQ is severely lacking) and 2.0L MIVEC in the FTO (moderate amount of TQ due to the fact of it being a 6 cyl), they have the ability to rev beyond the stratosphere of 8K rpm. As for the VTEC, they have shorter conrods too, that's why they lack TQ on the low end.

Different Camshaft profiles can change the powerband . . . header will contribute to low, mid, and high rpm. S-AFC via tuning.

DIM has more theories on making big HP w/ limited resources. I'm not even the same league as him . . .

 

Okay 11.0:1 CR static??? That is too high. That will require a really heavy cam and that would mean one more thing to change when you go turbo. Also 11.0:1 means you want custom pistons and custom combustion chamber shaping for the most detonation resistance...even then you might find 93 octane in adequate for you. Revving to 8000rpm will require two things:

1. The long conrods are one issue...try getting custom pistons that are "short" with longer conrods to put the piston at the proper height. That will give a better rod ratio for less angular acceleration BUT still gives more mass on the rods due to the overall length...hell your conrods could be close to the same length as mine and just have a stroker crank with a modified block for clearance at the extreme positions of the rods...that would be very bad for high rpms though (as evidenced by your lower fuel cut and redline. 1.8L 5G has a fuel cut of 6800rpm).

2. Your SOHC rockers are too long...and add too much mass to the valvetrain. You could easily get strong valve springs to keep the valves from floating but your power would not be what it could be at those rpms from the rocker arm weight and length.

Okay an all out NA motor wants light components that are inherently weaker than a forced induction heavy duty version. Cam profiles are completely different when you get into extreme (and even partially in non-extreme) cases. You want power at 1000rpm? not going to happen you are at idle there (almost). lets see...you launch hard and you are at what 3000rpm? now you shift at 6400rpm just before fuel cut and end up in second at about 3700 or so rpm right?...well then you just need to worry about building power from 3500rpm till 6500rpm. Don't give me that crap about around the town power at low rpms if you are talking about building a motor with 11:1 compression...that is a track engine there and all you will be concerned about is higher rpm usage. Hell my powerband really starts going at 4200rpm and holds till redline at 6500rpm (I shift at fuel cut around 6800rpm though)...that is fine for me around town. I need to pass someone and I am at 2000rpm?? Well downshift....if I am in 1st gear it doesn't matter about my powerband since the gearing is so short I lose traction even with my LSD!!!