How to: remove crank pulley.
Jan 6, 2010, 08:18 PM
#16
130 Ft-Lbs isn't particularily tight. Most suspension bolts go tighter than that. a 2+ foot breaker bar will be more than sufficient (unless you only weigh 50 Lbs...).
The crank bolt that holds the pulley on is a normal, right-hand thread, just a bit larger on thread size.
Since you're in process of disassembling the engine, just take off the sump (oil pan) (NOTE - drain the oil first!) and stuff a piece of hard wood between the block and one of the crank counterweights (you can use a prybar or wrench, but there is a possibility of damaging something should it slip). That will keep the crank from turning and allow you to loosen the bolt. If it's mounted on an engine stand, it is a simple piece of pie.
Next to that get a flywheel holder ($20) that bolts to the rear of the block and fits to at least two ring gear teeth. That will keep the crank/flywheel from turning so you can easily loosen the front bolt.
The crank bolt that holds the pulley on is a normal, right-hand thread, just a bit larger on thread size.
Since you're in process of disassembling the engine, just take off the sump (oil pan) (NOTE - drain the oil first!) and stuff a piece of hard wood between the block and one of the crank counterweights (you can use a prybar or wrench, but there is a possibility of damaging something should it slip). That will keep the crank from turning and allow you to loosen the bolt. If it's mounted on an engine stand, it is a simple piece of pie.
Next to that get a flywheel holder ($20) that bolts to the rear of the block and fits to at least two ring gear teeth. That will keep the crank/flywheel from turning so you can easily loosen the front bolt.
i </3 my dad for jackin all my stuff i use. oh.. and for the record..i have air tools now. lol went and got some today because i got tired of trying to break stuff free by hand. i hate not knowing what tools i need, im always missing something.
Jan 7, 2010, 03:04 PM
#18
well it has a pretty big pin. but it still rotates like.. 1-2 inches. after spining it a few times i gave up on fighting to put the pin back in. and im using a screw driver now.. still moves 2-3 inches. its only a temporary stand to hold the motor and make it easier on my back and keep it off the ground.. im not even doing the assembly process, i just needed to gut it before i took it to my machine shop.. ill be taken the stand over the EPM just to hold my motor of the ground once i get it back, and so its easier to roll around. im gunna get some ghetto cherry picker to make swappin the motors easier also. i used a table and a lift last time(dropped motor/trans/cradle onto table, lifted car away). dont have that option right now..
Jan 17, 2011, 01:13 PM
#19
mine is still on the car and i cant get that ***** off for nothing. tried beating it with a hammer/wrench and also took a 220ft lb impact and so far nothing. any ideas? im going to get some PB blaster and try that if nobody has any other suggestions
Jan 17, 2011, 02:22 PM
#20
Note: I would have the breaker bar already touching the ground before bumping the starter.
Jan 17, 2011, 09:13 PM
#22
The starter will engage to engine no problem you just need to bump it. If your looking through the passenger wheel well the crank pulley turns clockwise when the starter kicks it so you will want the breaker bar pointed towards the front of the car so the starter will push the bar to the ground.
Jan 17, 2011, 09:37 PM
#23
If its in the car still.. Unhook the Crank sensor. and/or undo the coil packs.. use a 1-2ft breaker bar, and put it in a position that it wont move and crank the car quickly.. it will break loose easilly..
all u really need is a 2 ft breaker bar on the end of ur 1/2 wrench and give it a good leftyloosey pull or two. just dont try to throw your back out.
but using the starter to bump the engine while a wrench is holding it is normally the easiest way to do it. just dont break a hand/finger to do it..
all u really need is a 2 ft breaker bar on the end of ur 1/2 wrench and give it a good leftyloosey pull or two. just dont try to throw your back out.
but using the starter to bump the engine while a wrench is holding it is normally the easiest way to do it. just dont break a hand/finger to do it..
Jan 18, 2011, 09:50 AM
#25
is your friend for jobs like that.
Specs: 1/2" sq. dr.; 9/16" std. bolt size; working torque range 50-600 ft lbs.; NBT 1,000 ft. lbs.; ultimate torque, 625 ft lbs. forward, 700 ft lbs. reverse; avg. air cons. 5 cfm; air inlet 1/4" min. hose size 3/8". Ship. wt. 5 lbs.
* NBT (Nut Busting Torque): This tool will loosen a nut tightened to 1,000 ft./lbs. in 6 seconds.
* NBT (Nut Busting Torque): This tool will loosen a nut tightened to 1,000 ft./lbs. in 6 seconds.
That's after I bent a 48" cheater bar.
Someone said something about 120psi vs 150psi. It's not the PSI output of the compressor that matters. It's how strong your impact is. Most air impacts are rated at 90psi anyway.
I had tried to remove the same nut with my own impact. I borrowed the impact pictured above, hooked it up to the same compressor I was using with my own impact and the nut got removed on first try. So it's not the compressor's output that matters.
Last edited by blaze_125; Jan 18, 2011 at 12:56 PM.
Jan 18, 2011, 10:41 AM
#26
Dont forget about your CFM output of your compressor. You are correct with psi not mattering as much. My craftsman with 710 ft Lbs of reverse torque is rated for 90 psi. However when I first got it I still was running 3/8" air line and my compressor could not get enough cfm to the impact and it still would not pull off the bolt from hell I was working on lol. Went and bought 1/2" hose and it brought it to life. One pull for like 1 second and that baby zipped right off 
Jan 18, 2011, 11:42 AM
#27
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I have an 1/2" electric impact, I think rated at 240lbs that took it off. It took a solid minute or more of "impacting" to eventually get it loose, but it finally came off. Added a few bursts in the tighten direction as well hoping to help knock it loose.
Apr 11, 2013, 01:49 PM
#30
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Yep got the gear puller and it popped right off, got home with a new water pump and realized I didn't have any gasket sealer... fml
how do I tighten the crank pulley bolt when finished?
and is there anything else I need to do before I start my car besides making sure the timing marks line up?
how do I tighten the crank pulley bolt when finished?
and is there anything else I need to do before I start my car besides making sure the timing marks line up?
Last edited by eusgen; Apr 11, 2013 at 02:28 PM.