How to: remove crank pulley.
Dec 28, 2009, 07:18 PM
#1
How to: remove crank pulley.
Might sound dumb, but
1.. engine is on a engine stand..
2.. i dont have air tools..
3.. i dont have a friend
MOTOR IS NOT IN A VEHICLE.. not exactly an easy task..
and to double check.. is the crank bolt righty tight? or right loosy? (is it a reversed spline?)
once i get the crank pulley off i can get the rest of the timing belt and pieces off so i can leave the motor for assembly, droppin it off monday for the block to be cleaned decked honed and assembled with all the new parts.
1.. engine is on a engine stand..
2.. i dont have air tools..
3.. i dont have a friend
MOTOR IS NOT IN A VEHICLE.. not exactly an easy task..
and to double check.. is the crank bolt righty tight? or right loosy? (is it a reversed spline?)
once i get the crank pulley off i can get the rest of the timing belt and pieces off so i can leave the motor for assembly, droppin it off monday for the block to be cleaned decked honed and assembled with all the new parts.
Last edited by Demon_ni2; Dec 28, 2009 at 07:26 PM.
Dec 28, 2009, 08:24 PM
#2
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Its normal thread so lefty loosy. that bolt is tightened to something like 132 ft lbs or so. I had air tools and the 120 psi i had wasnt enough to rip it off. I had to take the motor to a shop that had a 150 psi compressor and have them zip it off. The only other way I know to get it loose only works with the engine in the vehicle. So I dunno what to tell you, you'll have to find someone with the proper air tools and pressure to get it off. sorry the news wasnt any better. 
Dec 28, 2009, 08:56 PM
#3
Yea, without air tools it is pretty much impossible. The crank pulley bolt is tightened down to 134+-3 ft-lb. With another person there you might be able to use a flywheel holder to immobilize the rotating assembly enough to loosen the crank pulley bolt, but the easiest way is a good 1/2" impact gun.
Dec 30, 2009, 03:44 PM
#5
I had a similar issue , you will need the assistance of a buddy , get him to hold the flywheel / flexplate any way possible a screwdriver, a prybar, any way you think you can hold it. then put a wrench on the bolt and hit it with a hammer , that will simulate an impact wrench. that's what we did and it worked great.
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Jan 1, 2010, 02:02 AM
#9
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Another way could be put two of the flywheel bolts back into the threads, and have a buddy hold a crowbar between then take a good 24" breaker bar to the pulley.
Jan 5, 2010, 12:23 PM
#10
ya i got it off.. i put a 1/2' wrench threw the flywheel plate and a 1/2' wrachet in the crank pulley and have it 2 really hard wack with a hammer. it broke loose.. no assistance was needed.. the one wrench stopped the flywheel from moving anywhere..
now im stuck, still need air tools. so im headed to epm with my motor to get the last few small things off.. then im droppin it off tomorrow moring at psi for them to do just about everything to it.
now im stuck, still need air tools. so im headed to epm with my motor to get the last few small things off.. then im droppin it off tomorrow moring at psi for them to do just about everything to it.
Jan 5, 2010, 02:38 PM
#12
how do you know i make bank? LOL.. i use to have air tools. but it was all my dads stuff that he left with me.. he came and got it all after 2 years of being out of state.. i dont want to go buy all new stuff till i move into my new house(not for another year). i have my basic tools i need for workin on the car. i dont have any stuff for workin on EVERYTHING. lol
i dont want to go buy all new stuff till i move into my new house(not for another year). i have my basic tools i need for workin on the car. i dont have any stuff for workin on EVERYTHING. lol
Jan 6, 2010, 08:05 AM
#15
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130 Ft-Lbs isn't particularily tight. Most suspension bolts go tighter than that. a 2+ foot breaker bar will be more than sufficient (unless you only weigh 50 Lbs...).
The crank bolt that holds the pulley on is a normal, right-hand thread, just a bit larger on thread size.
Since you're in process of disassembling the engine, just take off the sump (oil pan) (NOTE - drain the oil first!) and stuff a piece of hard wood between the block and one of the crank counterweights (you can use a prybar or wrench, but there is a possibility of damaging something should it slip). That will keep the crank from turning and allow you to loosen the bolt. If it's mounted on an engine stand, it is a simple piece of pie.
Next to that get a flywheel holder ($20) that bolts to the rear of the block and fits to at least two ring gear teeth. That will keep the crank/flywheel from turning so you can easily loosen the front bolt.
The crank bolt that holds the pulley on is a normal, right-hand thread, just a bit larger on thread size.
Since you're in process of disassembling the engine, just take off the sump (oil pan) (NOTE - drain the oil first!) and stuff a piece of hard wood between the block and one of the crank counterweights (you can use a prybar or wrench, but there is a possibility of damaging something should it slip). That will keep the crank from turning and allow you to loosen the bolt. If it's mounted on an engine stand, it is a simple piece of pie.
Next to that get a flywheel holder ($20) that bolts to the rear of the block and fits to at least two ring gear teeth. That will keep the crank/flywheel from turning so you can easily loosen the front bolt.