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How to: remove crank pulley.

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Old Apr 13, 2013, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 03lances
How far off were they? It most definitely looks like pulling the head may be necessary . Dont be too discouraged though its not that difficult and a couple new valves is only like $20-$30. Just buy a head gasket set so you get all the other gaskets with it (intake, exhaust, valver cover etc.)

One thing you need to do now that you have the marks correct is right before you pull the belt back off mark the belt and gears with paint, white out whatever will show up. Also paint an arrow on top of the belt showing the rotation. This way when you put it all back together you just have to match the mark on the belt with the mark on the gear.
Ok so before I go and pull the head and put it back in wrong is there anything I need to do before/after taking the head off to make sure everything runs smoothly?

It is possible for my to replace the theoretically bent valves myself? I assume some specialty tools will be needed.
Old Apr 13, 2013, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by eusgen
Ok so before I go and pull the head and put it back in wrong is there anything I need to do before/after taking the head off to make sure everything runs smoothly?

It is possible for my to replace the theoretically bent valves myself? I assume some specialty tools will be needed.
Absolutely you can replace them by yourself assuming the valve seats were not damaged. Bare minimum you will need are basic mechanics tools, Torque wrench and valve spring compressor. Ill be honest with you though I suggest having someone there with you that has done this type of work before. Its not difficult but if you've never done it before it can get confusing. I also suggest getting some roloc.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...528_0006436620

You use it wilth your drill to clean the mating surfaces of the head/block. It can make the 4 hour cleaning job done by hand turn into a 20 minute job with the drill.

The stock head bolts are torque to yield. You can either replace them (recommended) or you can measure them to see if they are still within spec to re use them (specs in FSM).

I pulled the intake manifold and head as one piece last time I pulled mine off (before I had headstuds) this save a good deal of time just dont forget to unbolt the bracket thats bolted to the bottom of the manifold.
Old Apr 13, 2013, 01:04 PM
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Yea It might be a bit confusing but I am going to have to dive into this one alone. I don't know any mechanics lol. thank you for all the help

few more questions I have atm:

will replacing the bent valves effect the timing on the head? I guess what I am asking is will I need to adjust anything before putting the head back on the car?

Is there a way to make sure visually (since the head is off) that the pistons and valves are seated (idk if my wording is correct here) correctly for the timing?

edit, more questions lol sorry:

After reading the FSM I am not so sure about all this, especially if it turns out to be something other than a valve. how much do you think it would cost if I went to a shop to fix my head?

Would it be cheaper to take the head off myself and bring it into a shop or just tow the whole car there and have them do it?

Last edited by eusgen; Apr 13, 2013 at 01:34 PM.
Old Apr 13, 2013, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by eusgen
Yea It might be a bit confusing but I am going to have to dive into this one alone. I don't know any mechanics lol. thank you for all the help

few more questions I have atm:

will replacing the bent valves effect the timing on the head? I guess what I am asking is will I need to adjust anything before putting the head back on the car?

Short answer is no. Just make sure that the cam mark you made is in the same spot when you put the rocker arms back on (ie spin the cam where it need to go when its easy to spin with the rockers off)

Is there a way to make sure visually (since the head is off) that the pistons and valves are seated (idk if my wording is correct here) correctly for the timing?

See above and just don't spin the crank while the head is off and the mark will still be in the same place .

edit, more questions lol sorry:

After reading the FSM I am not so sure about all this, especially if it turns out to be something other than a valve. how much do you think it would cost if I went to a shop to fix my head?

Would it be cheaper to take the head off myself and bring it into a shop or just tow the whole car there and have them do it?
Without being there personally its really hard to say. If you just tow the car to a shop they will do a leak down test to first determine where the compression is leaking. If it turns out to be something that does not require the head removed it may be cheaper, But if it turns out the head needs to be removed it will cost considerably more for them to pull the head than it would for you to pull it and bring it in to them.

It would certainly give you more piece of mind having a qualified mechanic do the work (no offense). Just be prepared for the cost. In all honestly I think this case would be better served for you to take it in and have this job done at a shop. Sucks I know but better that than doing all the work yourself and have something else go wrong
Old Apr 13, 2013, 03:29 PM
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I want to fill my front and rear torque mounts so I think I will pull the head myself and go from there. I will try and take a bunch of pics of the process.

will it be easier to access the bolts to the rear transmission torque mount with the head/intake manifold off?
Old Apr 13, 2013, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by eusgen
I want to fill my front and rear torque mounts so I think I will pull the head myself and go from there. I will try and take a bunch of pics of the process.

will it be easier to access the bolts to the rear transmission torque mount with the head/intake manifold off?
Not really. It will be easier pulling the bracket off the transmission but the roll mount attached to the car will have to be done from underneath. I filled my own mounts as well. I used the 80a urethane which seems to be perfect at least for me.
Old Apr 15, 2013, 05:56 AM
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So reading the FSM I can't really get a straight answer. Can I replace the valves without having the take anything else out of the head? springs, retainer locks, etc.

Next question is how do I remove the valves and replace them? The FSM only shows you how to measure or check the valve, it does not show how to remove and install them.

Going to take the valve cover off tomorrow and take a bunch of pics.

Last edited by eusgen; Apr 15, 2013 at 05:59 AM.
Old Apr 15, 2013, 07:17 AM
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No. Once you pull the head off you will have to pull the rocker arms off and use a valve spring compressor to compress the spring enough to remove the retainers. Then you can slide the valve out through the bottom.
Old Apr 16, 2013, 05:47 AM
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Sounds like you have a handful. I have a suggestion though. Instead of going through all the trouble of dealing with retainers, springs, valves why don't you just go to a junk yard and pull another head from a lancer or mirage? Swap out, swap in done.
Old Apr 16, 2013, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Green_Bandit
Sounds like you have a handful. I have a suggestion though. Instead of going through all the trouble of dealing with retainers, springs, valves why don't you just go to a junk yard and pull another head from a lancer or mirage? Swap out, swap in done.
I am strongly leaning towards this or taking my head to a mechanic to get fixed but it will probably cost just as much $$ to fix my head as it would to just get another one.

going to pick up on my valve cover and possible head removal from my "build" / "show" thread, here https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/02...ine-yet-4.html

if anyone could check out those pictures and let me know if they see anything that I am missing that would be great
Originally Posted by Little show no shine
Ok after a good long stare at the engine I noticed that his clip seemed out of position.



Now that the rocker cover is off... would turning the crank with a wrench allow me to see/hear any damage in the head?

or should this be avoided, can it cause more damage?

Can I remove the head without removing the fuel injectors/rail? They are attached to the intake manifold and you don't need to remove the intake manifold to remove the head.

Last edited by eusgen; Apr 16, 2013 at 07:52 AM.
Old Apr 16, 2013, 08:01 AM
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Best one I see is $75 + shipping. You'd be surprised. Car-part.com
Old Apr 16, 2013, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Green_Bandit
Best one I see is $75 + shipping. You'd be surprised. Car-part.com
So wait... the head on a 1.8 mirage is the same as our lancer?

Found one about 30 minutes away for $125

Can I remove the head without removing the fuel injectors/rail? They are attached to the intake manifold and you don't need to remove the intake manifold to remove the head

Last edited by eusgen; Apr 16, 2013 at 08:42 AM.
Old Apr 16, 2013, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by eusgen
So wait... the head on a 1.8 mirage is the same as our lancer?

Found one about 30 minutes away for $125

Can I remove the head without removing the fuel injectors/rail? They are attached to the intake manifold and you don't need to remove the intake manifold to remove the head
You can leave the manifold in the car but it is actually faster to remove the manifold with the head. Reason being is you can either disconnect the fuel lines and that rear brake booster vacuum hose along with the 2 bracket bolts on the under side of the manifold. Or you can fight with trying to reach all the manifold to head nuts/bolts to disconnect it before you pull the head, wobbly sockets are golden when trying to do this, minimum a swivel but I hardly ever use those anymore. Not to mention you will still have to remove the 2 bottom bracket bolts even if you leave the manifold in the car since you will have to push the manifold back towards the firewall so you can clear the studs on the head. Trust me its much easier to disconnect the manifold from the head when it is out. You can leave the injector/rail assembly all connected to the manifold when you pull it out.
Old Apr 16, 2013, 09:49 AM
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And, you get that mirage cam. Just something to think about. The two engines are basically the same. It's just the shorter stroke that makes the 93 a 1.8.

Last edited by Green_Bandit; Apr 16, 2013 at 09:51 AM.
Old Apr 16, 2013, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Green_Bandit
And, you get that mirage cam. Just something to think about. The two engines are basically the same. It's just the shorter stroke that makes the 93 a 1.8.
Is the mirage cam better?


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