Help: Idle Control Valve
I had a similar issue with high idle before and it was because my throttle cable was routed in a bind , if you grab the round thing that the throttle cable is going to and can turn to a fully closed position while the car is running and the idle changes that may be your issue. you also have a throttle screw on you throttle body in which you put a screw driver screwing it in and out and you can adjust your idle down and up... hope this helps... an isc motor may also be the culprit the usally fixes the issue if you have a constant bouncing of you idle but the slow rise issue sounds like as the cable is heating up above you exhaust manifold it is binding ...
Last edited by darkmitsu; Jan 14, 2010 at 02:37 PM.
mines worse..
when i first flashed my factory ecu, its idling at 3k!.
but when you put it to N or D, it goes back to normal.
so for now, im using a my backup ecu and its fine. =)
when i first flashed my factory ecu, its idling at 3k!.
but when you put it to N or D, it goes back to normal.
so for now, im using a my backup ecu and its fine. =)
FIXED
Went to the pick and pull yard, got a new MAF for 65.00. Plugged it in... no change.
So I pulled out the wiring diagram and traced the wires to the ecu from the MAF. One wire on the 65 pin (I think was not grounded properly), rewired, started up, idled at 750 rpm. PERFECT!
Thanks for all the help.

Went to the pick and pull yard, got a new MAF for 65.00. Plugged it in... no change.
So I pulled out the wiring diagram and traced the wires to the ecu from the MAF. One wire on the 65 pin (I think was not grounded properly), rewired, started up, idled at 750 rpm. PERFECT!
Thanks for all the help.
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