Those with high powered NA lancers
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 28
Likes: 8
From: puerto rico
My main issue from what I see on this forum and Project Lancer is all these PR guys pop up with wild claims of parts fitting or insane whp from a bolted 4B11 or 4B12. But there is no photos or how-to or anything to go off of. I always hear how a 4G69 TB will increase power but theres been no one that has actually done it to provide photos or a before and after dyno, same goes with the evo x cams.
I can def tell you PR guys seem to be tuning gods of the 4B11 and 4B12.
I can def tell you PR guys seem to be tuning gods of the 4B11 and 4B12.
I know how to make a 4b12 over 230 WHP but ITS MY SECRET (jeje) with 4B parts. do your home work and you will find answers
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: KCMO
Haha...I feel like there's a p***y factor that plays a part in this. We all seem to speculate on sh*t we've never done. Isn't the question will cams fit, will it tune and drive?
Saying it's a secret is kinda lame. It's sorta like bragging, forums aren't competitions, they're a place to share knowledge and communicate.
I've been here long enough to know, if it can be done, we can verify it. On that note, I would love to know exactly how to add 40+ ponies to my 4B12!
Saying it's a secret is kinda lame. It's sorta like bragging, forums aren't competitions, they're a place to share knowledge and communicate.
I've been here long enough to know, if it can be done, we can verify it. On that note, I would love to know exactly how to add 40+ ponies to my 4B12!
Well has anyone heard anything else from dadsgts or any PR guy with the cams? my guess is they did what the Nitrous guy did a while ago.....tell all about the install, and blow their motor and never show up again.
in fact, I think im the only person that I know on the forums that has blown my motor and kept active on here lol
in fact, I think im the only person that I know on the forums that has blown my motor and kept active on here lol
I'm here huckleberry! Nope my car still churns out will over 200hp and gets driven 242 miles daily for my commute to work. Matter of fact while you haters sit and talk about your pipe dreams I'll be installing my evo x manifold and eclipse 3.8 throttle body this weekend along with a fuel return line. By the way. yeah it fits. want pictures stay tuned for this weeks If i only had the ***** to back up my mouth.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Bucks County, PA
I do too, and it's called a turbo. I could care less if people explain how they made/will make 200+ whp n/a. All I want to see is a dyno print-out of anyone even coming close, and there hasn't been one.
Talk is cheap, especially on the internet.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 28
Likes: 8
From: puerto rico
Haha...I feel like there's a p***y factor that plays a part in this. We all seem to speculate on sh*t we've never done. Isn't the question will cams fit, will it tune and drive?
Saying it's a secret is kinda lame. It's sorta like bragging, forums aren't competitions, they're a place to share knowledge and communicate.
I've been here long enough to know, if it can be done, we can verify it. On that note, I would love to know exactly how to add 40+ ponies to my 4B12!
Saying it's a secret is kinda lame. It's sorta like bragging, forums aren't competitions, they're a place to share knowledge and communicate.
I've been here long enough to know, if it can be done, we can verify it. On that note, I would love to know exactly how to add 40+ ponies to my 4B12!
check this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8qgSpTepsA lancer 4b12 192 whp
Last edited by derrickeliu; Mar 5, 2011 at 06:45 AM.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Orlando, FL
I grew up building galaxies falcons and fairlanes with my dad so i can understand why people like n/a. NO TURBO LAG. hp to the wheel asap. Thats the whole point. Turbos are fun yes, but isnt it more satisfying to make something out of nothing?
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 28
Likes: 8
From: puerto rico
Finally someone understand my point
Last edited by derrickeliu; Mar 12, 2011 at 06:52 AM.
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Chicago - SW suburbs
If you leave off the pistons and head work, you're still a lot cheaper than a turbo setup. Granted, the power potential is also much less, but an extra 30-50 whp is nothing to sneeze at on these cars.
i used to have a custom cai , but my ish got hidrolocked cuz i forgot to put a bypass valve , i have a 4 to 1 headers a 4b12 swap straight pipe going to oem catback ,(yep no sound so no cops ) qtp exhaust cutout (for when i wanna be noisy and believe me it is ) megan coils , lightweight rrm pulley ( just for show it doesnt make a difference to tell u the truth) k&n custom build sri , konig lightning 16 x 7 ( they weight about 16 pounds each) and im not gonna lie to u i have an ra turbo kit in the closet lol , i will put it on prob next year ama try to build my engine this year i have to get my drilled disck brakes , and some light weight seats as well , btw , since u are going for turning performance and trying to get all the ponies u can , try to get rid of ur 18 inches rims and get some 16 believe me its a big difference , i own an es , i went from oem 16 to 18s and felt the car heavy as hell right away thats why i went back to 16 .
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: SA Australia
Wow so much said on here. Well let me share my experience and knowledge on the 4b engines.
First of all I will introduce myself. I drive a CJ Lancer Aspire. It is a luxury GTS Australian model. It is a 2.4L CVT with leather, HID's, MMCS.
Yes you can get 250 ATW. It is called cheating the dyno results. Many tuner do this to inflate figures to sell themselves and their products. Realistically you will get about 30-40% gain over stock with just bolt on parts and a tune.
I read most forums on our lancer and yes there is no one around who has full detailed reports on there mods. I do not know any one else then me who has has put their car on a dyno and tested all their mods for improvements.
I use a Mainline rolling dyno to test my car that is regularly callibrated. I only use it as a gauge to test the improvements not as fact.
First I put my car on the dyno with only a blitz panel filter and Ralliart air intake snorkel. The car got 90kw atw.
Second i fitted 4-2-1 Supercircuit headers on my car. Top end power did not go up but small low and mid rev range improvements.
Third I fitted 100 CPI cat, 2.5" stainless steel mandrel bent exhaust. I only gained 3kw at the top rev range but gained good mid range power.
Next came the tune. Now let me say this has been by far the hardest part. First it took over a year to get a full def file written. Lucky for me we have a wizz in Australia who learnt how to do this with some help from others around the world. Then our cars have so many sensors that it shuts down power on the dyno. We are not sure why but we suspect it has some thing to do with the CVT and the stability control. We did manage to adjust high octane fuel maps and managed to get lean the AFR's from 10 down to 13.5 which gave me 103 kw(140Hp) at the top rev range and better power improvements in the mid rev range. Unfortunately we could not do any thing to the timing and MIVEC maps due my car shutting down on the dyno when we touched them.
Now i am currently going through the process of tuning my car using virtual dyno and Evo scan. This is done by running Evo scan and driving the car on the road. Now we are only 90% done so i do not have full results yet to show figures. I will put my car on the dyno to compare the power once the tune is completed to see the gains. All I can say I have a lot more power and responce down low and mid range then before.
All you people just seem to look at the maximum wheel power rather then the improvement down low and mid range where you need it and use it on the street.
Sorry if that upsets some people but no way are you going to get over 200hp with just bolt on parts and a tune.
i plan to fit a larger throttle body soon as i believe it is starving my 2.4L of air, but this only again give small improvements.
To get good gains on our cars then I suspect you will have to remove the head, shave 20-30 thou off the head and fit larger cams suited for a NA engine not a turbo. I do not plan to do this as i do not want to remove the head as it is a big job and expense for another small gain.
As for the key board warriors who claim they have done it and know how but dont wont to give their secrets out.
I dont see why you either lie or come on to a car forum and not share your knowledge. I suspect it is because you dont know how and have never done it.
First of all I will introduce myself. I drive a CJ Lancer Aspire. It is a luxury GTS Australian model. It is a 2.4L CVT with leather, HID's, MMCS.
Yes you can get 250 ATW. It is called cheating the dyno results. Many tuner do this to inflate figures to sell themselves and their products. Realistically you will get about 30-40% gain over stock with just bolt on parts and a tune.
I read most forums on our lancer and yes there is no one around who has full detailed reports on there mods. I do not know any one else then me who has has put their car on a dyno and tested all their mods for improvements.
I use a Mainline rolling dyno to test my car that is regularly callibrated. I only use it as a gauge to test the improvements not as fact.
First I put my car on the dyno with only a blitz panel filter and Ralliart air intake snorkel. The car got 90kw atw.
Second i fitted 4-2-1 Supercircuit headers on my car. Top end power did not go up but small low and mid rev range improvements.
Third I fitted 100 CPI cat, 2.5" stainless steel mandrel bent exhaust. I only gained 3kw at the top rev range but gained good mid range power.
Next came the tune. Now let me say this has been by far the hardest part. First it took over a year to get a full def file written. Lucky for me we have a wizz in Australia who learnt how to do this with some help from others around the world. Then our cars have so many sensors that it shuts down power on the dyno. We are not sure why but we suspect it has some thing to do with the CVT and the stability control. We did manage to adjust high octane fuel maps and managed to get lean the AFR's from 10 down to 13.5 which gave me 103 kw(140Hp) at the top rev range and better power improvements in the mid rev range. Unfortunately we could not do any thing to the timing and MIVEC maps due my car shutting down on the dyno when we touched them.
Now i am currently going through the process of tuning my car using virtual dyno and Evo scan. This is done by running Evo scan and driving the car on the road. Now we are only 90% done so i do not have full results yet to show figures. I will put my car on the dyno to compare the power once the tune is completed to see the gains. All I can say I have a lot more power and responce down low and mid range then before.
All you people just seem to look at the maximum wheel power rather then the improvement down low and mid range where you need it and use it on the street.
Sorry if that upsets some people but no way are you going to get over 200hp with just bolt on parts and a tune.
i plan to fit a larger throttle body soon as i believe it is starving my 2.4L of air, but this only again give small improvements.
To get good gains on our cars then I suspect you will have to remove the head, shave 20-30 thou off the head and fit larger cams suited for a NA engine not a turbo. I do not plan to do this as i do not want to remove the head as it is a big job and expense for another small gain.
As for the key board warriors who claim they have done it and know how but dont wont to give their secrets out.
I dont see why you either lie or come on to a car forum and not share your knowledge. I suspect it is because you dont know how and have never done it.
Wow so much said on here. Well let me share my experience and knowledge on the 4b engines.
First of all I will introduce myself. I drive a CJ Lancer Aspire. It is a luxury GTS Australian model. It is a 2.4L CVT with leather, HID's, MMCS.
Yes you can get 250 ATW. It is called cheating the dyno results. Many tuner do this to inflate figures to sell themselves and their products. Realistically you will get about 30-40% gain over stock with just bolt on parts and a tune.
I read most forums on our lancer and yes there is no one around who has full detailed reports on there mods. I do not know any one else then me who has has put their car on a dyno and tested all their mods for improvements.
I use a Mainline rolling dyno to test my car that is regularly callibrated. I only use it as a gauge to test the improvements not as fact.
First I put my car on the dyno with only a blitz panel filter and Ralliart air intake snorkel. The car got 90kw atw.
Second i fitted 4-2-1 Supercircuit headers on my car. Top end power did not go up but small low and mid rev range improvements.
Third I fitted 100 CPI cat, 2.5" stainless steel mandrel bent exhaust. I only gained 3kw at the top rev range but gained good mid range power.
Next came the tune. Now let me say this has been by far the hardest part. First it took over a year to get a full def file written. Lucky for me we have a wizz in Australia who learnt how to do this with some help from others around the world. Then our cars have so many sensors that it shuts down power on the dyno. We are not sure why but we suspect it has some thing to do with the CVT and the stability control. We did manage to adjust high octane fuel maps and managed to get lean the AFR's from 10 down to 13.5 which gave me 103 kw(140Hp) at the top rev range and better power improvements in the mid rev range. Unfortunately we could not do any thing to the timing and MIVEC maps due my car shutting down on the dyno when we touched them.
Now i am currently going through the process of tuning my car using virtual dyno and Evo scan. This is done by running Evo scan and driving the car on the road. Now we are only 90% done so i do not have full results yet to show figures. I will put my car on the dyno to compare the power once the tune is completed to see the gains. All I can say I have a lot more power and responce down low and mid range then before.
All you people just seem to look at the maximum wheel power rather then the improvement down low and mid range where you need it and use it on the street.
Sorry if that upsets some people but no way are you going to get over 200hp with just bolt on parts and a tune.
i plan to fit a larger throttle body soon as i believe it is starving my 2.4L of air, but this only again give small improvements.
To get good gains on our cars then I suspect you will have to remove the head, shave 20-30 thou off the head and fit larger cams suited for a NA engine not a turbo. I do not plan to do this as i do not want to remove the head as it is a big job and expense for another small gain.
As for the key board warriors who claim they have done it and know how but dont wont to give their secrets out. I dont see why you either lie or come on to a car forum and not share your knowledge. I suspect it is because you dont know how and have never done it.
First of all I will introduce myself. I drive a CJ Lancer Aspire. It is a luxury GTS Australian model. It is a 2.4L CVT with leather, HID's, MMCS.
Yes you can get 250 ATW. It is called cheating the dyno results. Many tuner do this to inflate figures to sell themselves and their products. Realistically you will get about 30-40% gain over stock with just bolt on parts and a tune.
I read most forums on our lancer and yes there is no one around who has full detailed reports on there mods. I do not know any one else then me who has has put their car on a dyno and tested all their mods for improvements.
I use a Mainline rolling dyno to test my car that is regularly callibrated. I only use it as a gauge to test the improvements not as fact.
First I put my car on the dyno with only a blitz panel filter and Ralliart air intake snorkel. The car got 90kw atw.
Second i fitted 4-2-1 Supercircuit headers on my car. Top end power did not go up but small low and mid rev range improvements.
Third I fitted 100 CPI cat, 2.5" stainless steel mandrel bent exhaust. I only gained 3kw at the top rev range but gained good mid range power.
Next came the tune. Now let me say this has been by far the hardest part. First it took over a year to get a full def file written. Lucky for me we have a wizz in Australia who learnt how to do this with some help from others around the world. Then our cars have so many sensors that it shuts down power on the dyno. We are not sure why but we suspect it has some thing to do with the CVT and the stability control. We did manage to adjust high octane fuel maps and managed to get lean the AFR's from 10 down to 13.5 which gave me 103 kw(140Hp) at the top rev range and better power improvements in the mid rev range. Unfortunately we could not do any thing to the timing and MIVEC maps due my car shutting down on the dyno when we touched them.
Now i am currently going through the process of tuning my car using virtual dyno and Evo scan. This is done by running Evo scan and driving the car on the road. Now we are only 90% done so i do not have full results yet to show figures. I will put my car on the dyno to compare the power once the tune is completed to see the gains. All I can say I have a lot more power and responce down low and mid range then before.
All you people just seem to look at the maximum wheel power rather then the improvement down low and mid range where you need it and use it on the street.
Sorry if that upsets some people but no way are you going to get over 200hp with just bolt on parts and a tune.
i plan to fit a larger throttle body soon as i believe it is starving my 2.4L of air, but this only again give small improvements.
To get good gains on our cars then I suspect you will have to remove the head, shave 20-30 thou off the head and fit larger cams suited for a NA engine not a turbo. I do not plan to do this as i do not want to remove the head as it is a big job and expense for another small gain.
As for the key board warriors who claim they have done it and know how but dont wont to give their secrets out.
I dont see why you either lie or come on to a car forum and not share your knowledge. I suspect it is because you dont know how and have never done it.