Engine Sludge
Engine Sludge
So does anyone know how to remove sludge without replacing an engine?
My dads car is pretty messed up due to lack of oil changes. So I was thinking about seafoaming 5+ times, flush out the engine quite a bit. Then run some synthetic oil in the car and change out the oil every 1k...
This is why we change our oil peoples...
Any good products out there
My dads car is pretty messed up due to lack of oil changes. So I was thinking about seafoaming 5+ times, flush out the engine quite a bit. Then run some synthetic oil in the car and change out the oil every 1k...
This is why we change our oil peoples...
Any good products out there
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From: Connecticut / Massachusetts U.S.A
If it were me, I wouldn't use any additives or seafoam. They tend to loosen/break stuff up that will clog passageways in the motor.
I would change the oil and oil filter, drive 100 miles and change it again. I would repeat this until after 100 miles the oil still looks relatively clean. You can use conventional oil to flush the engine, since its cheaper and if you want, switch to a synthetic after.
Also, consider changing the coolant and flushing the radiator. Chances are good if the oil changes were not done on time, neither was the coolant.
-Bink
I would change the oil and oil filter, drive 100 miles and change it again. I would repeat this until after 100 miles the oil still looks relatively clean. You can use conventional oil to flush the engine, since its cheaper and if you want, switch to a synthetic after.
Also, consider changing the coolant and flushing the radiator. Chances are good if the oil changes were not done on time, neither was the coolant.
-Bink
If it were me, I wouldn't use any additives or seafoam. They tend to loosen/break stuff up that will clog passageways in the motor.
I would change the oil and oil filter, drive 100 miles and change it again. I would repeat this until after 100 miles the oil still looks relatively clean. You can use conventional oil to flush the engine, since its cheaper and if you want, switch to a synthetic after.
Also, consider changing the coolant and flushing the radiator. Chances are good if the oil changes were not done on time, neither was the coolant.
-Bink
I would change the oil and oil filter, drive 100 miles and change it again. I would repeat this until after 100 miles the oil still looks relatively clean. You can use conventional oil to flush the engine, since its cheaper and if you want, switch to a synthetic after.
Also, consider changing the coolant and flushing the radiator. Chances are good if the oil changes were not done on time, neither was the coolant.
-Bink
Substitute some ATF for motor oil and run for 100 miles or so. Like, 3.5 qts oil and 1 qt atf. Transmission fluid has high concentrations of detergents and will not hurt the engine. Also remove the valve cover and clean inside, everywhere you can see. Remove the lower oil pan as well (easy to do) and clean the screen on the oil pickup as well as all the gunk in the pan. Do it in that order, too, since all the sludge tends to make its way into the oil pan. Shouldn't take longer than two or three hours to do.
I know people use the trick of putting some diesel fuel in their oil to battle a sticky lifter then change it out but Im not sure I can comfortably suggest that in this case.
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From: Connecticut / Massachusetts U.S.A
If you were supposed to do this, it would be in the manual.
-Bink
Seafoam or ATF in the oil will help a little bit. However, manual cleaning is the only thing that will dislodge debris from the oil pickup or crankcase breather baffle inside the valve cover. Those are the places that matter. I wouldn't waste my money on snake oil "cleaners" when a toothbrush and some carb cleaner will do the job 1000x more thoroughly.
Used properly, any product will do what it's supposed to do.
Used improperly, any product can harm what it's being used on/in.
People loose fingers every day cutting potatoes.
Does that mean knives should not be used anymore?
Does your manual say you need
ER Built 2.0 / FP Black / MAP Stage 3 Head / GSC S3's
Coming from someone who actually used it, still uses it from time to time, and will keep on using it.
I discovered the product after my oil pickup tube got clogged from lack of regular maintenance and oil change.
I didn't want to drop the oil pan, so I got that stuff; and guess what? It did what it said it would do.
Last edited by blaze_125; Aug 9, 2011 at 11:04 AM.
Evolved Member
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 1
From: Connecticut / Massachusetts U.S.A
The same could be said of cold air intakes...
Used properly, any product will do what it's supposed to do.
Used improperly, any product can harm what it's being used on/in.
People loose fingers every day cutting potatoes.
Does that mean knives should not be used anymore?
Used properly, any product will do what it's supposed to do.
Used improperly, any product can harm what it's being used on/in.
People loose fingers every day cutting potatoes.
Does that mean knives should not be used anymore?
You must have stock in seafoam 
You also seem to have more trust that people know what they are doing than I do.
I said what I said as a warning, that is all.

-Bink
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