4G93 head swap
Yeah, it seems like people don't find this news until it's too late or someone else's misfortune.
At least it's not too bad, don't worry man. Just take your time and the lancer will be back up. Careful taking those bolts back out. Have a torque wrench right?
At least it's not too bad, don't worry man. Just take your time and the lancer will be back up. Careful taking those bolts back out. Have a torque wrench right?
Have not even gotten the new head in, in the process of cleaning my pistons, the new head going in and all the old parts so that the new gaskets seal nice and tight. Going to Home Depot tomorrow to get a brass brush tool for the air compressor I have to make it easier cause hand brushing sucked 
. With the new job, and finals week this week and next, this install is going to be a slow one. Also trying to get a friend or two over to help is always a trouble too.
Dirty!
After a little hand brushing with a brass brush and some Brakleen non-clorinated:
I really miss driving my lancer, my mother's 2010 Corolla just isn't the same
.
. With the new job, and finals week this week and next, this install is going to be a slow one. Also trying to get a friend or two over to help is always a trouble too.Dirty!
After a little hand brushing with a brass brush and some Brakleen non-clorinated:
I really miss driving my lancer, my mother's 2010 Corolla just isn't the same
.
I do a ton of mechanic work I promise I would not steer you wrong. My head took me over 4 hours to clean when I pulled me head way back when. Now maybe 20 mins if I had to do it again.Absolutely you can replace them by yourself assuming the valve seats were not damaged. Bare minimum you will need are basic mechanics tools, Torque wrench and valve spring compressor. Ill be honest with you though I suggest having someone there with you that has done this type of work before. Its not difficult but if you've never done it before it can get confusing. I also suggest getting some roloc.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...528_0006436620
You use it wilth your drill to clean the mating surfaces of the head/block. It can make the 4 hour cleaning job done by hand turn into a 20 minute job with the drill.
The stock head bolts are torque to yield. You can either replace them (recommended) or you can measure them to see if they are still within spec to re use them (specs in FSM).
I pulled the intake manifold and head as one piece last time I pulled mine off (before I had headstuds) this save a good deal of time just dont forget to unbolt the bracket thats bolted to the bottom of the manifold.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...528_0006436620
You use it wilth your drill to clean the mating surfaces of the head/block. It can make the 4 hour cleaning job done by hand turn into a 20 minute job with the drill.
The stock head bolts are torque to yield. You can either replace them (recommended) or you can measure them to see if they are still within spec to re use them (specs in FSM).
I pulled the intake manifold and head as one piece last time I pulled mine off (before I had headstuds) this save a good deal of time just dont forget to unbolt the bracket thats bolted to the bottom of the manifold.
Keep us updated. Your moving along. 
Got the new head bolts in and everything tightend back down now I just gotta get the timing belt on correctly...
Ok so every time I try and put in the damn timing belt when ever I get it on there i realize that it has moved the timing by a tooth or two on either the cam or the crank.
Now I am off by a tooth clockwise on the cam. Can I turn it counter-clockwise to get it back in place(with the timing belt off)?
Ok so every time I try and put in the damn timing belt when ever I get it on there i realize that it has moved the timing by a tooth or two on either the cam or the crank.
Now I am off by a tooth clockwise on the cam. Can I turn it counter-clockwise to get it back in place(with the timing belt off)?
Take a look at post #5 here
I would get the cam aligned then ziptie the belt to the cam gear. then following the rotation of the engine install the belt as I point out in the post I linked to
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...need-help.html
I would get the cam aligned then ziptie the belt to the cam gear. then following the rotation of the engine install the belt as I point out in the post I linked to
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...need-help.html
Take a look at post #5 here
I would get the cam aligned then ziptie the belt to the cam gear. then following the rotation of the engine install the belt as I point out in the post I linked to
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...need-help.html
I would get the cam aligned then ziptie the belt to the cam gear. then following the rotation of the engine install the belt as I point out in the post I linked to
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...need-help.html
, won't know til I get her started right? Anyways I got the head and everything but like a idiot when I took the head back out for the broken head bolt when I put it back in I didn't pay attention to that rear wiring harness that snugs in between the big rear intake manifold bracket and now It is completely crushed under the bracket. My problem is I really really don't want to pull the head again (I REFUSE 
) so I am trying to get the top two bolts on the bracket loosened but they are very tight and at a weird angle and I have yet to break either loose. Bathed them in PB blaster before it got dark and I quit for the night. Hopefully tomorrow I can break it loose. Then hopefully the wiring harness isnt damaged too badly otherwise I get to do a little rewiring, yay me.I got 99 problems and they are all my car
edit: PB blasted those two intake mani bracket bolts and got them free, glad to find out my harness isn't damaged severely and will still work without repair (hopes)
Last edited by eusgen; Apr 28, 2013 at 06:30 AM.
LOL! now I am almost finished but I can't figure out where this ****ing hose goes. I have looked everywhere and can't find a connection for it.
help?
EDIT:
had a friend come over with a fresh mind and he found it. Is inbetween the intake manifold and the fuel rail. The connection is black, not silver, and is right next to a wiring harness plug thats between the fuel injector plugs so it is hard to see.
help?
EDIT:
had a friend come over with a fresh mind and he found it. Is inbetween the intake manifold and the fuel rail. The connection is black, not silver, and is right next to a wiring harness plug thats between the fuel injector plugs so it is hard to see.
Last edited by eusgen; Apr 28, 2013 at 08:50 AM.
So the car has been running pretty smooth for the past 250 miles now with no issues, I did however get a chance to check for codes today (CEL) and I got two codes(I have a evo cluster which doesn't light up for CEL's for whatever reason), one for the crankshaft position sensor and one for the camshaft position sensor. Honestly I don't see how my car could run if both of these were malfunctioning as the OBD reader suggests. Any suggestions?
My only idea is I was going to swap out the camshaft positon sensor for another mirage one because the cam sensor is easy to replace, and see if that helps, or at least gets rid of the cam sensor code.
My only idea is I was going to swap out the camshaft positon sensor for another mirage one because the cam sensor is easy to replace, and see if that helps, or at least gets rid of the cam sensor code.
Were they pending codes or fully active? Pending codes will not set off the light but can still be seen by the scanner. If you havent already I would first reset the codes and drive for a week or two and check it again to see if they return.
They were pending, I reset them, had no codes, started car and those two codes were pending again.
I have not figured out the CEL problem with the Cam and crank position sensors but I will be doing that this week sometime, I just got my wisdom teeth pulled out so I havn't been working on the car at all.
Sometimes it idles a little low which makes it feel a bit rough but that could be contributed to the filled motor mounts.
I have been running on Plus (91 octane)gas since the swap though, doubt it makes any difference I just wanted the higher octane cause I am always running lean codes and backfiring (gotta love dat backfire)
Sometimes it idles a little low which makes it feel a bit rough but that could be contributed to the filled motor mounts.
I have been running on Plus (91 octane)gas since the swap though, doubt it makes any difference I just wanted the higher octane cause I am always running lean codes and backfiring (gotta love dat backfire)
Last edited by eusgen; May 8, 2013 at 03:02 PM.
Still can't figure out the cam/crank shaft position codes. I swapped out the cam sensor at work for another one and it didn't make a difference I still get the codes. Anyone else who have 4g93 mirage head/cam with the same problem or not?