digdat

iTrader: (31)

So I bought and installed a 1st Generation RRM header for my 2003 Lancer OZ (13k miles). I am having idle issues, which i want feedback on.

Before installing header, had the following:

2.5" Test Pipe
2.5" Buschur Racing Catback Exhaust (dynomax muffler)
Short Ram Intake

I never threw a CEL and the engine ran excellent.

I installed the RRM header and made sure the o2 sensor was screwed in and plugged in. On startup, idle is fine. After its been running for a while, when I pull up to a stop light or stop sign (anywhere where I haveta stop and sit for a few seconds), the idle starts jumping from 700/800 RPM up to 1200 RPM. The idle sounds "loopy".

I have removed the test pipe and re-installed the 2nd cat. I reset the ECU and let it idle (on re-start, it revved to like 4k RPM, back down, let idle for 5 mins or so). I then drove it and had the same idle issue at stops.

I left in the 2nd cat, removed the RRM header and installed the stock header. I screwed in the o2 sensor and plugged it in. Reset the ECU, er-started, it revved to like 4k, let it idle for 5 mins, drove it and the car runs fine, no idle issues.

I then removed the 2nd cat, replaced with test pipe. I reset ECU, let it idle (car revved again), drove and idle is fine.

I then re-installed RRM header, installed o2 sensor, reset ecu, let idle (revved again) and test drove it. Startup is fine. At a stop, the idle issue continues.

ANy thoughts? I have a MIL eliminator, would installing that help?


edit: I mailed RRM and this is what they said (this was before removing header and re-installing stock one:

"NEVER ever heard that about a header. Make sure he did not damage your O2 sensor or fail to plug it back in when he installed the header. That is the only thing it can be. Install error related to the O2 sensor. ROAD/RACE"

fkrzo

Try removing the MIL eliminator.

Alchemist

iTrader: (23)

Steve- if you want to get together sometime we can see if my code reader says anything about it. Or go to AutoZone or something if you don't want to drive 4 hours

Installing the MIL elim couldn't hurt.

the headers aren't wrapped are thay? I ask because I was having a similar issue when I had my RRM headers wrapped- turns out they trap too much heat and that messes with a key reading that your ECU uses to keep it happy... something between the radiator coolent temp and the air intake temp- they were too close to each other, temp wise, and the ECU was freaking out... felt like I was hitting the fuel cut all the time, and it was "loppy" at stoplights

fkrzo

The only reason I say the MIL is because ther could be a bad splice.

digdat

iTrader: (31)

Thanks for the comments, guys.

Headers are not wrapped.

I have not yet installed the MIL eliminator. I wanted to know if installing would help the situation. I'm not worried about the CEL but the idle issue bothers me.

I'm gonna head to autozone and see what the code is.

LancerXtreme

iTrader: (5)

You have no back pressure now. Get a High Flow Cat.

Alchemist

iTrader: (23)

LX- I can see where you're coming from. but there are other members, just of our club, that have more extreme, or very simial, exhaust setups with no trouble. AND he said that the bad idle happened with the RRM header and super-restrictive-backpressure-inducing stock cat

Wait a sec... Steve- how much time are you allowing for the ECU to reset itself? If it's only like 5 minutes then you need to give it more time.... shouldn't really be more than 15 minutes, but I've have weird ECU reactions up to a half hour after resetting. Don't do any freeway driving. try to mix hard launches/soft driving/hard driving/soft launches so the ECU is seeing all kinds of different driving and engine air/fuel needs....
see if a little more time doesn't help.

BTW- how'd you get the left nut off the header? And you've done this twice?! you're crazy bro'

digdat

iTrader: (31)

I really do appreciate the comments guys.

Idle issues still occur with RRM header and a stock, 2nd catalitic converter.

engineerboy - I unplug the negative battery terminal for 20 or more minutes and restart the car. Car idles to like 4000 rpm, comes back down to like 700/800 rpms and I let it sit there for 5 to however minutes until I get inpatient. I'll try letting it idle longer. After that, I'll take it out driving for a bit and will vary the driving and see how it works. I'll also try and see if it happens before or only after the CEL comes on.

As for the left nut .. with the RRM header on, its easy to get off IMO. With the stock header, its a pain in the ***. What I did was remove the heatshield and get a double-sided, closed end wrench up under the stock header, but on the bolt. I tied a piece of small rope onto the end of the wrench that wasn't on the bolt and fed it up through, inbetween the pipes on the manifold. I Pulled it like a **** to remove it. Pulled, till it was loose, reached under there, moved it back, pulled again. This was until it was able to be loosened with my hand. To get it back on, I did the same but from underneath for the pulling. It was the only way I could think of which didn't require moving or modifying anything. It worked :P

Alchemist

iTrader: (23)

Oops, I meant after you've started the car, how long have you been giving it before you decide there's a problem My bad.

Keep us posted