Goals?
ugh, thats so gay...lol.
So what do u think I should do Bahamut? stay with it? or get a stick? what wuld u do?
even with all the mods, an auto will always be about a second slower than a manual?
So what do u think I should do Bahamut? stay with it? or get a stick? what wuld u do?
even with all the mods, an auto will always be about a second slower than a manual?
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https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...&highlight=cam
Towards the end of the thread. Ask the two owners of the cam install on their HP goals. For NA, I am confident 1 mirage w/ a G93 and cam w/ manual knocked on the door close to 160 fly, and I only managed to do approx 138-142 fly for auto.
Beefed up TQ conveter - you have to ask the manufacturer on your stall speed. Basically, how high your revving RPM while you press the brake at the same time. IMO, if you are not shooting over 200 fly HP, beefed TQ converter isn't cost effective. Of course, don't ask those classic pony cars w/ 3 spd beefed auto tranny. They are different because of displacement, meaning they can put down a lot more HP.
an auto will always be about a second slower than a manual
=====================================
Not the general rule.
You can depend on driver error on the manual driver, or they start at zero rpm like you. Of course, it doesn't apply to WRX and Supra auto owners.
Towards the end of the thread. Ask the two owners of the cam install on their HP goals. For NA, I am confident 1 mirage w/ a G93 and cam w/ manual knocked on the door close to 160 fly, and I only managed to do approx 138-142 fly for auto.
Beefed up TQ conveter - you have to ask the manufacturer on your stall speed. Basically, how high your revving RPM while you press the brake at the same time. IMO, if you are not shooting over 200 fly HP, beefed TQ converter isn't cost effective. Of course, don't ask those classic pony cars w/ 3 spd beefed auto tranny. They are different because of displacement, meaning they can put down a lot more HP.
an auto will always be about a second slower than a manual
=====================================
Not the general rule.
You can depend on driver error on the manual driver, or they start at zero rpm like you. Of course, it doesn't apply to WRX and Supra auto owners.
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dude, i'm kinda in your boat cause i got an auto, but i'm going with the "race/drive what you got" motto here. you have some pretty exciting plans for your car, and even though your staying n/a for now, you will have some decent power. i'd say stick with auto and don't sweat it.
besides, then when you school a stick civic you can rub it in their face that you are driving an auto
besides, then when you school a stick civic you can rub it in their face that you are driving an auto
Ok, so say I stick with the auto... With my current setup, I/E/H, intake manifold, T.B, and borred Fuel rail ( T.B and F.R arent on right now for reasons ) But with that setup what would you say my numbers are? 1/4 mile time?
Now if I added stage 1.5 cam,gear, springs, bigger injecters, e-manage... do you think I would be close to mid 15's with the right tuning? what kind of numbers should i expect? am i just dreaming
Now if I added stage 1.5 cam,gear, springs, bigger injecters, e-manage... do you think I would be close to mid 15's with the right tuning? what kind of numbers should i expect? am i just dreaming
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good question, as we have almost identical setups. fuel rail should be within a few weeks, and i just ordered my IM and TB this weekend. i'm pretty excited for my upcoming mods.
anyone have a guess on numbers?
anyone have a guess on numbers?
the amount of money to get 180 crank hp from a NA car you could get a RRM stage 2 turbo and have 225-230 hp AT THE WHEELS! (gurudel got 227whp on his AUTO LACER) = thats about 250 crank hp.. 21 ponies from an Evo.... RRM turbo all the way!! and no i dont work for them..just speaking the truth.
www.roadracemotorsports.com
www.roadracemotorsports.com
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i'm not so sure about that. i think gurudel spent over 4k on his setup, where, if nmoney was to do his own labor and tuning, he could spend about half as much to stay n/a and encroach 180 crank.
hell, people are saying that bullfrog head package adds 40hp, and that is only 1600 dollars
hell, people are saying that bullfrog head package adds 40hp, and that is only 1600 dollars
yeah and I have half of that head package already done
includes I.M, T.B, Cam and port of the head.
Also I know about the turbo, so If I wanted to go turbo I would have been saving up for it. The whole point of me going N/A was to see how far I could go w/o turbo. Then If I wanted to go ahead and turbo my car. I wanna see if N/A can go as far as I think it can.
I have no problem with the N/A tho, Once I turbo, im in a whole different class. Im worried about my staying N/A with an auto and not being able to do anything about evening the odds with a stick w/the same mods. Stock 1/4 mile time w/ a good driver is what? 16.7? auto would be around 17.5 maybe more.
Im hoping that if I stay auto, with all the mods I have that it will somewhat an even race with a stick with the same mods.
Im sure if all I ever raced were auto's I would kick some major ***, but I want to go against sticks and have a CHANCE to win. I was also thinkin about stick cause I wanna learn stick. Oh well
Gp - I already have suprised so many ppl accords, civics, a z24, neons, 200sx...I did go against an old SE-R, and he started to pull little by little once we got up to 70, by the time we finished my hood was at the start of his trunk :/ . I seriously felt like I could have won if I were stick tho, lol im just rambling...
includes I.M, T.B, Cam and port of the head.
Also I know about the turbo, so If I wanted to go turbo I would have been saving up for it. The whole point of me going N/A was to see how far I could go w/o turbo. Then If I wanted to go ahead and turbo my car. I wanna see if N/A can go as far as I think it can.
I have no problem with the N/A tho, Once I turbo, im in a whole different class. Im worried about my staying N/A with an auto and not being able to do anything about evening the odds with a stick w/the same mods. Stock 1/4 mile time w/ a good driver is what? 16.7? auto would be around 17.5 maybe more.
Im hoping that if I stay auto, with all the mods I have that it will somewhat an even race with a stick with the same mods.
Im sure if all I ever raced were auto's I would kick some major ***, but I want to go against sticks and have a CHANCE to win. I was also thinkin about stick cause I wanna learn stick. Oh well
Gp - I already have suprised so many ppl
accords, civics, a z24, neons, 200sx...I did go against an old SE-R, and he started to pull little by little once we got up to 70, by the time we finished my hood was at the start of his trunk :/ . I seriously felt like I could have won if I were stick tho, lol im just rambling...
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Advantages of NA over TC
1) no fear of blowing up, unless dumping sand in gas tank or drinking tons of water
2) no fear of dropping octane rating
3) margin for error in tuning for NA has a greater leeway to tune. The margin for error in tuning TC is much smaller. One slip up, things go bad.
1) no fear of blowing up, unless dumping sand in gas tank or drinking tons of water
2) no fear of dropping octane rating
3) margin for error in tuning for NA has a greater leeway to tune. The margin for error in tuning TC is much smaller. One slip up, things go bad.
Originally Posted by bahamut
Advantages of NA over TC
1) no fear of blowing up, unless dumping sand in gas tank or drinking tons of water
2) no fear of dropping octane rating
3) margin for error in tuning for NA has a greater leeway to tune. The margin for error in tuning TC is much smaller. One slip up, things go bad.
1) no fear of blowing up, unless dumping sand in gas tank or drinking tons of water
2) no fear of dropping octane rating
3) margin for error in tuning for NA has a greater leeway to tune. The margin for error in tuning TC is much smaller. One slip up, things go bad.
it'd be nice to see an auto with a good n/a setup. my buddy is actually planning the same thing. he's running 17.7 with a home made sri. he's working on it though. everything takes time. 
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Originally Posted by Nm0ney34
Gp - I already have suprised so many ppl accords, civics, a z24, neons, 200sx...I did go against an old SE-R, and he started to pull little by little once we got up to 70, by the time we finished my hood was at the start of his trunk :/ . I seriously felt like I could have won if I were stick tho, lol im just rambling...
accords, civics, a z24, neons, 200sx...I did go against an old SE-R, and he started to pull little by little once we got up to 70, by the time we finished my hood was at the start of his trunk :/ . I seriously felt like I could have won if I were stick tho, lol im just rambling...my immediate goal is to beat my friend's tiburon. with the stuff i have now, i am stupidly close (car length maybe), so i think i could school him once i get my rail, im and tb installed
eventually, i just would love to be able to peel out. i know it sounds dumb, but i can hardly get my tires spinning and it makes me sad
gp
I think you would be able to take him with ur upcomming mods, not kill him but I think u can pull out a win btw is his a 4cyc, or v6? mods? auto or stick? Have you upgraded your tires? I can spin my tires when I floor it, ever since I got new ones...but thats not one of my goals
Im going against a v6 tibby this weekend, this guys got intake exhaust and a chip i think. Maybe puttin somewhere round 160 whp. Its an auto too, and im pretty sure it weighs a good amount. Ill let u know how it goes, When I race him im gonna try to hold the break down and rev to about 3k and launch see if that does anything. but ill let u know.
so im not to sure how this will go, kinda nervous. I would be more confident if I had my TB and fuel rail on. RRM is going to send my tb thursday i think. I sent my tapped rail back to boe for an untapped one, I was haven some problems. i mean at the most i have what 125 -230 whp with I/E/H, intake manifold (Baha, what kind of numbers do u think I am really putting down?). Ive had someone time my 0-60 the best i got was high 7's. Ever since I installed my manifold, I go from 40-60 alot beter, my top end still isnt to great, I can get to 100 w/o much effort, not as fast as I want but its beter than before.
Im leaning more and more torwards keeping my auto, and just going with that.
To be honest, when there was first talk about the upgraded torque converter. I got basically this: The torque converter takes some power away from the auto, and if you were to go to level 10 have them upgrade it, then the torque converter wouldnt take so much power away...So can someone explain what upgrading the torque converter actually does, and explain why it wont help me.
man i ramble alot!
I think you would be able to take him with ur upcomming mods, not kill him but I think u can pull out a win
btw is his a 4cyc, or v6? mods? auto or stick? Have you upgraded your tires? I can spin my tires when I floor it, ever since I got new ones...but thats not one of my goals Im going against a v6 tibby this weekend, this guys got intake exhaust and a chip i think. Maybe puttin somewhere round 160 whp. Its an auto too, and im pretty sure it weighs a good amount. Ill let u know how it goes, When I race him im gonna try to hold the break down and rev to about 3k and launch see if that does anything. but ill let u know.
so im not to sure how this will go, kinda nervous. I would be more confident if I had my TB and fuel rail on. RRM is going to send my tb thursday i think. I sent my tapped rail back to boe for an untapped one, I was haven some problems. i mean at the most i have what 125 -230 whp with I/E/H, intake manifold (Baha, what kind of numbers do u think I am really putting down?). Ive had someone time my 0-60 the best i got was high 7's. Ever since I installed my manifold, I go from 40-60 alot beter, my top end still isnt to great, I can get to 100 w/o much effort, not as fast as I want but its beter than before.
Im leaning more and more torwards keeping my auto, and just going with that.
To be honest, when there was first talk about the upgraded torque converter. I got basically this: The torque converter takes some power away from the auto, and if you were to go to level 10 have them upgrade it, then the torque converter wouldnt take so much power away...So can someone explain what upgrading the torque converter actually does, and explain why it wont help me.
man i ramble alot!