I was just wondering what everyones goals were with their cars, and how you are going to go about acheiveing your goal. I just started think earlier so I thought I would ask all of you.

times? track? shows? etc...

My goal is to go N/A for now and get my auto into the mid 15's

right now ive got I/H/E I.M, T.B, fuelrail.

And my next mods will consist of 1.5 cam, gear, spring, e-manage ( I would love to get AEM ). then upgrade my torque converter and possibly port and polish on the head.

After I get those mods im gonna hit the track to see if im anywhere near my goal. see How far i can really go with N/A

After that ill hit up the suspension mods, and possibly turbo afterwards.

So what are all your goals/plans??

 

first goal, carbon fiber trunk, lsd (for me and car), clutch, and turbo stage 2 by next summer.
second goal, getting insurance again since I got the boot for speeding tickets.
I also want to enter a few car shows.
B

 

Quick, agile, fun to drive. I've done just about all the engine work I wanna do aside from head work. I may redo some piping, but that's it. I think I'll do JIC coilovers , rear sway and call it a day.

EDIT: I probably still have existing problems I need to fix once Iget this stupid electrical **** done though.

 

get my tien coilovers sometime this fall, thinkin about some pillar gauges, but overall give my car a clean stance and not give anyone any excuse to look at my car and go "eh, thats kinda tacky", im a nerdy guy with emo glasses, listens to death metal, and drives an import, i dont have a clue what people think about me when they see me.

 

250+whp, 13.XXX 1/4 mile, good autox setup

done: nonIC turbo setup, headers, wheels (but soon going back to stock 15s), front strut bar, rear strut bar, rear lower tie bar

sitting in house: sway bar, intercooler, slotted rotors, ceramic brake pads

in the mail: injectors, piggyback, fuel rail, buschur catback

to come: tein springs, yoko tires, dp, hi flo cat, bored out intake mani, pistons, lsd, clutch, hood vents, and racing seats.

 

My current goals are to enjoy the car in its current state of development (great handling and decent na power) while I save up for a real race car. The either keep driving my Lancer on the street or get another commuter car.

My previous goals were to build it into a regional competitive STS autocross car and a fun track car. I have achieved that to a level, but the costs are high, leaving little bang for the buck. But it is fun to **** off cars with more than twice the horsepower by going as fast as them around race courses!

 

How much do you guys really think upgrading the torque converter on an auto will do? will it help out as much as I hope it will, heh?

Anyone on here done it? I want to do it maybe in january after I upgrade my cam

 

Ive been thinkin about it, should I stick with my car and upgrade the torque converter... im so paranoid about bein a auto and doin all this stuff and then someone with a stick with the same mods blow me away just cause its a stick...

I found a oz Basically the same mods as me cept for the Intake manifold, tb, fr... Ive been think bout tradin it in for the stick and goin from there...or stick it out in the auto and try to get whatever i can get out of that...

If i upgraded the torque converter does anyone know where that will put me compared with a man.?

what do u guys think?

 

id say either stay with the lacner you have now and not geta tq converter or get a diff car, not another lancer unless it was a RA.

 

Mid 15's NA, do you have the tuning skills to start chaing after a 'tegra GSR? You have to be at least pumping 160-180 fly HP. Can't remember its weight. Their VTEC matched nicely w/ their gear ratio, but the ITR is even better in that area.


upgrade my torque converter
================

Not worth it paying 600-800 buck for higher stall speed. This is w/o labor too. If you are not chasing down an ITR, it's not worth the effort.


Your TQ converter will last you at least 100K if you don't manually shift it like 2g NT eclipse owners always pimping the idea. Or do those stupid N-drops. Then, you'll be floating with some 90's GM auto tranny starting to die at 60K.

 

mid 15's is where im aim'n.

So upgrading my torque converter wouldnt nuthin for me huh?

So when I add my cam, ecu and fuel upgrades...with the tunning i think i can hit 170-180ish bhp.

Now with all those mods, 2 lancers race same mods/weight blah blah. does the stick still have a big advantage? or is it narrowed out so that it comes down to reaction time, tires, conditions, etc...

am i just modding my auto just to get blown out by people just cause they got M/T?

 

wasnt saying that it wouldnt do anything, jsut saying it woudnt be worth it imo. i dont know what the diff would be witha tq converter when racing a 5speed but i have raced a I/E auto lancer when stock and killed him.

 

and you were 5 speed right? see, auto had I/E and u killed him stock. I love the lancer and wanna see how things go but i just dont wanna end up pissed off cause if i was in a 5 speed i would be faster...

 

To a certain extent, all auto trannies are a hinderance, except for Supras and WRX's (they just make them better, I guess). PLEASE drag in Top Fuel dragster's auto trannies. On average, w/ the same mods, auto will lose to manual about 1.5 sec (this is from my Porsche brochure on their in-house testing site). Only one of the tiptronic was behind by .5 or .8 sec . . . that's not the norm across the industry.

Higher stall speed will negate some of the negative factors, but I don't think it's enough to justify the cost the high price tag. How come none of my fellow miragers since 97 till now had done it? The same for the lancer guys for latter years.


+160 fly HP is harder than you think if you don't tune it yourself and understand its perimeter. Ask Rhyzin about tuning. How much effort did he put to tune his car. It's not magic claiming by the H&A crowd. At least, they can always fall upon VTEC for any discusion.

 

The lancer and mirage with a G93 auto should all suffer the 3rd gear blahs. 3rd gear is nothing for manual, because they can pull away on the top end of the rpm and dropping to early 4th gear.