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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 04:54 PM
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Battery relocation

I've been wanting to move my battery to the trunk . . . The how to is great, but I have one question. I'm sure you've all seen the maritime battery boxes, open on top but encloses teh battery in plastic (thinking this would help with accidental spillage) What I am worried about, however, is drilling into the floor of my trunk. What's the best way to do it, and how do I know I'm not gonna hit anything important? Appreciation for all ideas. . .
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 06:59 PM
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Which side you planning on putting it on? Passenger side? Anyway as long as you are careful you won't hit anything important... I relocated my batter at one point in time, but decided I didn't like it and ended up relocating it back to the front again...

So what made you want to relocate it? Just curious...
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 07:00 PM
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i did this mod.. i got pix on here... lemme find it....

edit: ok i looked i found my post.. but the pics are gone but it was a fairly easy mod.. just time consuming

Last edited by Kid Lancer 7; Feb 22, 2006 at 07:06 PM.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by newbiewonkenobe
I've been wanting to move my battery to the trunk . . . The how to is great, but I have one question. I'm sure you've all seen the maritime battery boxes, open on top but encloses teh battery in plastic (thinking this would help with accidental spillage) What I am worried about, however, is drilling into the floor of my trunk. What's the best way to do it, and how do I know I'm not gonna hit anything important? Appreciation for all ideas. . .
place your battery on the far right side (you facing the trunk) you can drill holes there because its only the wheel well you wont hit any gas line (because its on the RIGHT side... VERY important) so thass where you will place it!
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 07:30 PM
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just use sheetmetal screws? whats a good length? I guess I'll assume <1/4 inch thick for the plastic container. . . Thanks
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by newbiewonkenobe
just use sheetmetal screws? whats a good length? I guess I'll assume <1/4 inch thick for the plastic container. . . Thanks
i am currently using the stock plastic box thingy and the stock hinges to hold down the battery.. it still works wonders if you dont wanna spend $$ on a battery box etc ect... I did exactly what the instructions said.. i drilled 2 holes big enough for the stock clamps to hold on to. then tighten the heck out of the clamps. The battery just doesnt move.. i've been using the stock clamps since last october and the battery NEVER moved.. and i drive my lancer like i stole it
but to answer your question.. sheet metal screws will also do the trick. to make my install look cleaner i will be using a battery box.. so give me a heads up on how it goes!!
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 04:08 PM
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thanks, you guys rock!
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 06:34 PM
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Two reasons to put the battery on the right side, actually. 1, it's away from the gas line and tank. 2, it shifts weight to counteract the driver's weight. Most race cars have the battery on the right side for this reason. Most batteries are a good 40 lb, so you're counteracting about 1/4 of the driver's weight to make the car more balanced.

Anyway, watch out for the exhaust when you drill on the right side. Not that anything will go boom or even fail if you hit it, but it's best not to drill holes in your muffler. And I just used the stock J bolts through the holes I drilled in the trunk floor. Has been holding fine for 2 years now. Finally, make sure you want to do this. If I ever sell it, I might consider putting it back in the engine bay, but that's going to be a PIA, especially since I had to ruin the original connector when I did the relocation. But I'm keeping it for a while, so I don't care. Plus I can tell the buyer that a trunk mounted battery has a longer life because it's not in the hot engine bay (which is true)
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 07:32 PM
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yeah, understood. I'm not planning on selling either of my cars for quite, quite some time. I'm saving stock parts, just in case, but I doubt I'll sell it anytime soon. Plus like you said, you can tell em it lasts longer in the trunk, Id just say it helps it go better hehehe
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 07:47 PM
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i need more than 40 pounds to counteract 1/4 my weight. lol
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 08:18 PM
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Hey, that's your problem Actually, I worry that I'll be there pretty soon. I've gone from a thin 130 to 160 (all gut and butt) in the 2 years that I've been with an Italian woman. I'm marrying her (and her good cooking) so I might be huge if I don't get back to the gym soon.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 08:19 PM
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btw it's technically an 80 lb change because you're removing the 40 lb from the left side to begin with. Why they put the battery on the left side in the first place, I don't know. But then again, the Lancer wasn't exactly designed with racing in mind.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 10:55 PM
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From: Miami Lakes, Florida --Da 305 baby!
Originally Posted by urbanknight
Two reasons to put the battery on the right side, actually. 1, it's away from the gas line and tank. 2, it shifts weight to counteract the driver's weight. Most race cars have the battery on the right side for this reason. Most batteries are a good 40 lb, so you're counteracting about 1/4 of the driver's weight to make the car more balanced.

Anyway, watch out for the exhaust when you drill on the right side. Not that anything will go boom or even fail if you hit it, but it's best not to drill holes in your muffler. And I just used the stock J bolts through the holes I drilled in the trunk floor. Has been holding fine for 2 years now. Finally, make sure you want to do this. If I ever sell it, I might consider putting it back in the engine bay, but that's going to be a PIA, especially since I had to ruin the original connector when I did the relocation. But I'm keeping it for a while, so I don't care. Plus I can tell the buyer that a trunk mounted battery has a longer life because it's not in the hot engine bay (which is true)

ALL True!!!! but i highly doubt he will get close enough to the exhaust when drilling. u'd need a drill bit thats a foot long for that hehe.
The only con to this mod is if you have a remote starter.. it might take an extra few cranks if u live in Cold winter weather (NYC area) like me. But if you dont use a remote start then dont worry!
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 12:23 AM
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The exhaust is closer than you think. I could have nicked my exhaust with the drill bit we were using, probably about 4" long. Would have been difficult to drill a hole into it unless I was trying, though. And the cold starts SHOULD be ok if you use 0 guage wire. I can't say for sure because the coldest my car has ever had to start in was about 35 degrees.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by urbanknight
I can't say for sure because the coldest my car has ever had to start in was about 35 degrees.
damn that MO weather, anywasys yea use 0 gauge wire. you'll be fine. I have a friend who did this and cold starts have never been a problem
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