Exhaust answer question for n00bs
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From: Concord Township, Ohio
Exhaust answer question for n00bs
OK, just a way to pool info so we can point here when n00bs need help.
On 02-03 Lancers - MOTOR -> HEADER -> DOWNPIPE -> CATALYTIC CONVERTER -> MIDPIPE -> AXLEBACK
On 04-up Lancers - MOTOR -> HEADER -> DOWNPIPE -> MIDPIPE -> AXLEBACK (the 2nd catalytic converter is part of the downpipe)
======================================
Header (1st cat inside them)
(RRM headers shown)
Downpipe (shaped like an L, it goes from the header under the car)
Catalytic converter (2nd cat, it's the obvious one that's below the front seat area); if you have an 04 or newer, it's welded to the downpipe
(Magnaflow cat shown)
Midpipe (pipe that goes from the cat to the axleback)
Axleback (piping from the rear axle back, includes the muffler)
(Magnaflow axleback shown)
Axleback + Midpipe = catback
======================================
Header
There are different options.
RRM's header simply replaces the stock one. It flows better and removes the catalytic converter inside.
Kamikaze offers a header/downpipe combination that replaces both parts. Flow is much better, and the first cat is removed.
A2 Designs Link 2-piece header/downpipe combination again. Great flow, no first cat.
RPW offers a different style - the header tubes are longer, allowing for a different powerband. This offering also replaces the header/downpipe, but the header is much larger while the downpipe is much smaller. Removes first cat also.
Buying any headers removes a catalytic converter. This is illegal. You can get in trouble. Be aware of that.
If you're in Cali, you will fail smog testing if you buy, well, damn near anything. But especially removing catalytic converters. If you're smart, you can bypass the Service Engine Soon light and not get in trouble, but we cannot endorse you breaking the law. (And with most parts, if they pop the hood, they'll notice. Especially if it has an RRM sticker on it.
).
======================================
General pipe size ideas:
If you're staying N/A, you probably want 2.25" piping. Keeps some backpressure for low-end power, but opens up the flow.
If you're going turbo, you probably want 2.5" piping (or bigger... ) as it will allow the most exhaust flow from the snail.
No matter what changes you make, you will decrease the backpressure and lose low-end power. You will gain top-end, however. Just know that changing the exhaust works that way. No exceptions.
======================================
Helpful idea - heavy-duty exhaust hangers to hold up the larger system. Kartboy is going to be your best bet for this.
If your exhaust uses all of the 5 existing exhaust hangers, then the set that Kartboy offers might be perfect for you. Link
======================================
(all images borrowed from Roadracemotorsports.com)
On 02-03 Lancers - MOTOR -> HEADER -> DOWNPIPE -> CATALYTIC CONVERTER -> MIDPIPE -> AXLEBACK
On 04-up Lancers - MOTOR -> HEADER -> DOWNPIPE -> MIDPIPE -> AXLEBACK (the 2nd catalytic converter is part of the downpipe)
======================================
Header (1st cat inside them)
(RRM headers shown)Downpipe (shaped like an L, it goes from the header under the car)
Catalytic converter (2nd cat, it's the obvious one that's below the front seat area); if you have an 04 or newer, it's welded to the downpipe
(Magnaflow cat shown)Midpipe (pipe that goes from the cat to the axleback)
Axleback (piping from the rear axle back, includes the muffler)
(Magnaflow axleback shown)Axleback + Midpipe = catback
======================================
Header
There are different options.
RRM's header simply replaces the stock one. It flows better and removes the catalytic converter inside.
Kamikaze offers a header/downpipe combination that replaces both parts. Flow is much better, and the first cat is removed.
A2 Designs Link 2-piece header/downpipe combination again. Great flow, no first cat.
RPW offers a different style - the header tubes are longer, allowing for a different powerband. This offering also replaces the header/downpipe, but the header is much larger while the downpipe is much smaller. Removes first cat also.
Buying any headers removes a catalytic converter. This is illegal. You can get in trouble. Be aware of that.
If you're in Cali, you will fail smog testing if you buy, well, damn near anything. But especially removing catalytic converters. If you're smart, you can bypass the Service Engine Soon light and not get in trouble, but we cannot endorse you breaking the law. (And with most parts, if they pop the hood, they'll notice. Especially if it has an RRM sticker on it.
).======================================
General pipe size ideas:
If you're staying N/A, you probably want 2.25" piping. Keeps some backpressure for low-end power, but opens up the flow.
If you're going turbo, you probably want 2.5" piping (or bigger...
) as it will allow the most exhaust flow from the snail.No matter what changes you make, you will decrease the backpressure and lose low-end power. You will gain top-end, however. Just know that changing the exhaust works that way. No exceptions.
======================================
Helpful idea - heavy-duty exhaust hangers to hold up the larger system. Kartboy is going to be your best bet for this.
If your exhaust uses all of the 5 existing exhaust hangers, then the set that Kartboy offers might be perfect for you. Link
======================================
(all images borrowed from Roadracemotorsports.com)
Last edited by Blacksheepdj; Nov 19, 2006 at 11:35 AM.
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: MidWest
how about some detail on the different headers..... Turbo = rrm (or planning on turbo), kamikaze (supposedly) cheaper but does job (i've heard of fitment issues). RPW = save low end torque... etc etc etc oh and P.S. BTW Great post!
amen. nicely done.
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Evolving Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 112
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From: Fontana, CA
straight up awesome, i was asking this earlier, and finally its answered lol.
"If you're in Cali, you will fail smog testing if you buy, well, damn near anything."
.... and craaaapp so i cant get a turbo OR sc?
.....
"If you're in Cali, you will fail smog testing if you buy, well, damn near anything."
.... and craaaapp so i cant get a turbo OR sc?
.....
Last edited by AzN_Enthusiast; Mar 19, 2006 at 02:54 PM.
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From: Concord Township, Ohio
Originally Posted by AzN_Enthusiast
.... and craaaapp so i cant get a turbo OR sc?
Thread Starter
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From: Concord Township, Ohio
Originally Posted by rcefstsfecr
Great write up for n/a ppl what about us turbo guys or the ppl that have questions about going turbo and what to do with the exhaust
PS - the RRM turbo kit (most commonly used) uses the stock exhaust setup. They just recommend that you upgrade to an aftermarket setup...
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From: Concord Township, Ohio
Originally Posted by Danno
Looks good, FYI though, its an Engine not a Motor.
Pronunciation: 'mO-t&r
Function: noun
Etymology: Latin, from movEre to move
1 : one that imparts motion; specifically : PRIME MOVER
2 : any of various power units that develop energy or impart motion:
a : a small compact engine
b : INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINE; especially : a gasoline engine
c : a rotating machine that transforms electrical energy into mechanical energy
3 : MOTOR VEHICLE; especially : AUTOMOBILE
- mo·tor·dom /-d&m/ noun
- mo·tor·less /-l&s/ adjective
Talk to Merriam-Webster, yo.
Last edited by Blacksheepdj; Mar 23, 2006 at 10:45 AM.
Originally Posted by Blacksheepdj
3 : MOTOR VEHICLE; especially : AUTOMOBILE
- mo·tor·dom /-d&m/ noun
- mo·tor·less /-l&s/ adjective
Talk to Merriam-Webster, yo.
- mo·tor·dom /-d&m/ noun
- mo·tor·less /-l&s/ adjective
Talk to Merriam-Webster, yo.
It's Mitsubishi Motors, not Mitsubishi Engine
May I also suggest upgrading to urethane exhaust hangers. Such as the ones from Kartboy. To me it is a necessity when upgrading your exhaust with something as heavy as the Greddy EVO 2 catback.