roflmao

yeah a cbr would be nice...but when ur 18-19 insurance would be a lil to high for me...but it'd be fun as hell =)

 

theres a thread around with a dyno of a car with i/h/e search for it, buschur also tested their porducts, take a look for it

insurance? what the hell is that?

anyone ever seen a turbocharged suzuki motorcycle... 18 psi on standard pump gas no addittives, that thing will tear apart anything and everything, 0-60 in 11 secs? lets talk abotu 80-120 iin 10

 

ya i guess i should be more realisitic and just face that facts, if i want a major gain i need to put in major cash, IE a turbo charger.

But , it would be nice if just the basic bolt-on's took away al ot of time of the 0-60 b/c liek whoever said it before, i dont do the 1/4 mile track races, i just do more of i see a cocky kid at a red light and i wanna burn his *** till like 60 or 70, thats all, i dont even really wanna "street race" just give those cocky kids who have parents that buy them 30K cars when they turn 16... a good run, haha.

 

try gettin the RRM bored throttle body and bored intake manifold.. should give you a little quicker launch.. also the new piggyback they are making... figure all that is almost another 1k though.. anothe 2k on that and you have a turbo :P

 

How are you launching your auto? And are you shifting at all or just keeping it in D?

We had one long night of drag racing and in that time I watched an auto beat a manual (same mods on both - intake and exhaust)that hit their shifts pretty well. On that same night, I got beat in my auto having a testpipe more than that other auto.

The difference was he was clicking up the gears instead of letting the ecu handle the shifts. I had even reset my ecu to get higher shift points but it didn't make a difference. My friend would start in 1 and let it get past 5k before clicking up to get as much out of that gear. I was steadily losing by at least 1 1/2 car lengths.

Last time we went out, I raced my friend's Outlander with my current setup minus the 2.5" testpipe and I could hang in there until he got into 3rd. After that, the 2.4 liter was just too much.

 

shifting the auto like a stick is a real bad idea unless you dont have a problem expecting new transmision or rebuild

 

Why? I want facts not fiction please. This is how rumors get started.

 

From what I understand, slam shifting an auto prevents the gears from meshing correctly. This caused wear and eventually, failure.

Bottom line, if the owners manual says not to do it (and it does) don't do it.

I would, of course, like to hear a more detailed explanation.

 

So would I. I don't see how this is any more harmful than resetting your ECU so you make it shift at redline as opposed to what it has learned currently. Just kinda faking it past the point it would normally have shifted at. Although I am leery of the damage it could be causing, which is why I don't do it.

 

Ya, i do that fake "manual" in my auto sometimes, just because i can hear the exhaust get really loud then , haha.

Oh, and about the owners manual, i am not sure where or what page, but ill look if i remember, but it actually talks about shifting and engine breaking with the automatic in the manual and when/how to do it.

As for the launch... im not sure how im supposed to luanch an automatic, if someone could help me out there, i would love to try something and see if it works better.

 

laucnhing an auto, basically, if you know anything abotu the stall converter... just put your foot on the brake and rev up th engine, do it slow at first until you get the hang of it, and you can either let go of th ebrake while the rpms are high to get a nice jump, or.. which im not 100% sure abotu ont he lancer, every car will eventually let loose the brakes and youll go.. i dont do it bc i hve a lot more hp than most lancers, but in your case i think ti owuld be ok to do for a race every once and awhile, not everytime you wanna jump out on a redlight

 

hmmm ... so, let me see if i get this right.

Or... im kind of confused, u make mention of the regular break and the e-break... so i shuold use both, and just let them both go when ready?

 

to get our torque converter to stall you have to mash on the brake pedal since the e-brake holds the rear wheels.

To do a burn out set the e-brake.

Just mash the brake pedal, rev the engine till it doesnt go anymore (dont do this for longer than 4 or 5 seconds your ATF temps will go through the roof). Then let go of the brake and keep your foot on the gas.

 

Reopened.

 

alright cool thanks guru ... i have some things ill try today.

I forgot who said it earlier in this thread, but they said race a stock lancer and you will see your mods pay off, and i guess i didn realize it yet but the other week befroe i had my headers i raced a stock auto ES and just got to 60 before it was prob at 50 and i started from behind him. so i guess i can see my mods paying off, and it works out good.