Tapping Oil Pan
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Evolving Member
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From: St. Louis, MO
Tapping Oil Pan
If I were to tap my oil pan to install my turbo kit what would I have to do? I know that many of you will say don't try to do it if you don't know what you are doing but I want to know how to do it, so if I do feel comfortable doing it I can. I can also see if the shop I took it to did it right if I know what's going on with it.
I did a quick search for ya and here is something I found:
Originally Posted by imapunkclaimer
This thread is basically for people who are searching. Before i bought my turbo i had a few questions, but i couldnt find it anywhere on this board so im gonna post some things that you might wanna know about if you're considering a turbo.
First off, i mainly wanted a turbo for one thing and that was just to add more power to the lancer without significantly adding noise or rattling or anything. I was halfway right. Theres no rattling and the turbo is very solid (RRM IC Kit). Only thing is the wastegate spews out excess exhaust from the front of your car. im sure theres many reasons for this, but when the wastegate (pic 2) opens up at around 3500 rpms its really loud and sounds like a rice burner. There is an easy solution though. Go to any welding shop and have them recirculate the wastegate dump tube (pic 1) back to your stock downpipe and its only about 35-60 dollars!
(See picture 1 for illustration)
Next was the installation. I thought it would be a breeze and maybe 2 day max. Well i was wrong there. Dont get me wrong, installtion was the fun part, but it took longer than i thought. took me about 5 days and i had jay (viciouz) and chris help me install it. Installing this kit is a good idea because incase anything goes wrong you can fix it and youll learn a lot about your car in the process!
Also, make sure you have a shop tap your oil pan because thats the only pain in the *** part of the installation. Getting the pan off then back on and making sure there are no leaks.
Pretty much everything fits great. the turbo, downpipe, uppipe, wastegate assembly (pic 3) was flawless and thats all i could ask for. the pipes were nicely powedercoated red and everything went together nicely. only thing i wish it had was something to secure the filter from jiggling around, but i made something for that.
So, so far all the pipes, accessories and hardware went on flawlessly (this is why i went with rrm) and theres so many places where it looks like they could mess up and i thought they might be, but they werent.
ok intermission-------------------------------------------------
I really wanted to know how many pounds of boost i could run safely for everyday driving. Well i just learned its not about how much PSI youre running, but what temperature your car is at. So you could run as much as you want but your engine would get so hot at that boost that itll blow. keeping it boosting too long without a break will blow a piston also. so get an EGT (exhaust gas temperature) gauge and itll help you see when you're in trouble.
Ok, last part. What other stuff do i need with this kit?
You dont NEED anything extra, but it would be VERY helpful and youd probably end up getting it sooner or later.
Boost gauge - this is self explanatory. Tells you what PSI youre running and when youre getting boost.
EGT Gauge - Like I was saying above, tells you exhaust gas temperature and is a must if you wanna know when youre about to blow.
Breather - this is for your valve cover. your engine will spew trace amounts of oil through it and it may be a good idea to have something covering that hole up. Get a small breaher from kragen for a few bucks.
RRM Header - I wanted to go for a full stock setup, but it was obviously a good idea to get these headers for many reasons. more exhaust getting out quicker to help spool, keeping temperature down and they look a lot nicer. once again, not a must, but very beneficial
Wastegate return - this is a custom job like i was saying above. 35-60 bucks and they will weld your wastegate dump tube to your downpipe. (pic 1) keeps down the noise and you can hear the turbo better. you must have an aftermarket exhaust for this because the stock one is very restricitive and will cause exhaust to go back up the exhaust (which is bad)
This pretty much covers it. If you have anymore questions there are a lot of gurus on this board that will help you out and thats how i got most of my info.
good luck.
First off, i mainly wanted a turbo for one thing and that was just to add more power to the lancer without significantly adding noise or rattling or anything. I was halfway right. Theres no rattling and the turbo is very solid (RRM IC Kit). Only thing is the wastegate spews out excess exhaust from the front of your car. im sure theres many reasons for this, but when the wastegate (pic 2) opens up at around 3500 rpms its really loud and sounds like a rice burner. There is an easy solution though. Go to any welding shop and have them recirculate the wastegate dump tube (pic 1) back to your stock downpipe and its only about 35-60 dollars!
(See picture 1 for illustration)
Next was the installation. I thought it would be a breeze and maybe 2 day max. Well i was wrong there. Dont get me wrong, installtion was the fun part, but it took longer than i thought. took me about 5 days and i had jay (viciouz) and chris help me install it. Installing this kit is a good idea because incase anything goes wrong you can fix it and youll learn a lot about your car in the process!
Also, make sure you have a shop tap your oil pan because thats the only pain in the *** part of the installation. Getting the pan off then back on and making sure there are no leaks.
Pretty much everything fits great. the turbo, downpipe, uppipe, wastegate assembly (pic 3) was flawless and thats all i could ask for. the pipes were nicely powedercoated red and everything went together nicely. only thing i wish it had was something to secure the filter from jiggling around, but i made something for that.
So, so far all the pipes, accessories and hardware went on flawlessly (this is why i went with rrm) and theres so many places where it looks like they could mess up and i thought they might be, but they werent.
ok intermission-------------------------------------------------
I really wanted to know how many pounds of boost i could run safely for everyday driving. Well i just learned its not about how much PSI youre running, but what temperature your car is at. So you could run as much as you want but your engine would get so hot at that boost that itll blow. keeping it boosting too long without a break will blow a piston also. so get an EGT (exhaust gas temperature) gauge and itll help you see when you're in trouble.
Ok, last part. What other stuff do i need with this kit?
You dont NEED anything extra, but it would be VERY helpful and youd probably end up getting it sooner or later.
Boost gauge - this is self explanatory. Tells you what PSI youre running and when youre getting boost.
EGT Gauge - Like I was saying above, tells you exhaust gas temperature and is a must if you wanna know when youre about to blow.
Breather - this is for your valve cover. your engine will spew trace amounts of oil through it and it may be a good idea to have something covering that hole up. Get a small breaher from kragen for a few bucks.
RRM Header - I wanted to go for a full stock setup, but it was obviously a good idea to get these headers for many reasons. more exhaust getting out quicker to help spool, keeping temperature down and they look a lot nicer. once again, not a must, but very beneficial
Wastegate return - this is a custom job like i was saying above. 35-60 bucks and they will weld your wastegate dump tube to your downpipe. (pic 1) keeps down the noise and you can hear the turbo better. you must have an aftermarket exhaust for this because the stock one is very restricitive and will cause exhaust to go back up the exhaust (which is bad)
This pretty much covers it. If you have anymore questions there are a lot of gurus on this board that will help you out and thats how i got most of my info.
good luck.
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 699
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From: Central MA
there are adapters you can purchase.. i know for and oil temp / pressure sensor.. and i beleive for a return line also...
If you were to tap it youd have to weld a threaded bushing on there and tap if... lotta work if you dont have the tools... why not use the stock location?
If you were to tap it youd have to weld a threaded bushing on there and tap if... lotta work if you dont have the tools... why not use the stock location?
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Well im going to have it done @ a shop; the tapping part; as far as reinstall the pan i may do it myself. What happened was i bottomed out on a curb (doh!) and dented my oil pan; no leaks just fat dent. So im going to order a new oilpan and just take it to a shop and have them tap/weld it. How hard would reinstalling it be?
That would be a good way to do it. I thought when I was underneath the car changing my oil I saw a place to tap in next to the oil filter though. It had a pre-drilled threaded thing to put the feed line adapter on. But like some people have said it doesn't feed enough oil. But if you have enough oil in your engine I wouldn't think it should be a problem. I was thinking about installing some gauges in my car.. like the oil pressure gauge. I will get under there and look this weekend for a place to put it besides the oil pan.
Originally Posted by wiretap
That would be a good way to do it. I thought when I was underneath the car changing my oil I saw a place to tap in next to the oil filter though. It had a pre-drilled threaded thing to put the feed line adapter on. But like some people have said it doesn't feed enough oil. But if you have enough oil in your engine I wouldn't think it should be a problem. I was thinking about installing some gauges in my car.. like the oil pressure gauge. I will get under there and look this weekend for a place to put it besides the oil pan.
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