HUGE PROBLEM w/ GROUND WIRE KIT!
Feb 18, 2006, 01:26 PM
#1
HUGE PROBLEM w/ GROUND WIRE KIT!
Ok... Ive had a Ground Wire Kit for a while, and It was great...
It went like so:
Replaced the Ground wire on the Neg. Terminal that goes to the Body/Frame
(Driver Side).
Alternator directly to Neg. Terminal
Neg. to Tranny
Tranny to Head
Head to Throttle Body/Intake Manifold
As of the day before yesterday, like Ive seen done here on EvoM, I added another Ground Wire from the Throttle Body/I.M. to the Firewall, and another from the Firewall to the Passenger Side Body/Frame.
Well... Since then, Every time I drive and come to a light, or basically when I slow down to 1000 Rev.s the car stalls out and the Battery light comes on!
Every time I slow down or stop!!! (and theres a funny acidic smell too)
I took the battery to the shop, thinkin' perhaps this depleated it, but the shop said it holds a charge and is fine, so I dont need to recharge it.
...Huff! This sucks.
So I took 'em off, and it still happened untill I reset the Computer buy taking off the Negative.
Cool! Its all good now, and works well.
So I saw that Sigma Auto has 2 Grounding Straps for Grounding the Exhaust...
Theres a supposed increased Torque response (I doubt it, but we'll see).
It also apperently reduces Static Electricity in Exhaust, as well as reduces vibration noise from Exhaust (This's what sold me).
One is connected from the Exhaust where the Muffler bolts on the Midpipe to the Chassis. The other is connected from the Exhaust where the midpipe bolts on the Catalytic Converter to the Chassis.
I put 'em both on, and the car ran fine... Oh! I forgot to reset the Computer to tell it about the new mod... ...Ok, did it.
DAMNIT! Now It started the same **** again... So I just now took 'em off.
So now my cars out in the driveway with the Negative disconnected again, and Im hopin' it fixes itself.
Why am I having this problem, is it a Double Ground thing?
Lookie Here:
(Also I didnt know until I read this picture that, theres a stock ground from the Firewall to the to the Manifold... I hadnt removed that one.)
Someone please help me, cus teh Mitsu Dealer Parts/Servis Dept. wants to charge me 53 bucks just to look at it, and Id have to remove the whole ground kit that I have in (the original ones that worked fine), and then depeneding whats wrong their gonna charge me out the @ss to fix it.
The service technitian said theres something not telling the computer that the battery is charging or that the alternators working.
Please
It went like so:
Replaced the Ground wire on the Neg. Terminal that goes to the Body/Frame
(Driver Side).
Alternator directly to Neg. Terminal
Neg. to Tranny
Tranny to Head
Head to Throttle Body/Intake Manifold
As of the day before yesterday, like Ive seen done here on EvoM, I added another Ground Wire from the Throttle Body/I.M. to the Firewall, and another from the Firewall to the Passenger Side Body/Frame.
Well... Since then, Every time I drive and come to a light, or basically when I slow down to 1000 Rev.s the car stalls out and the Battery light comes on!
Every time I slow down or stop!!! (and theres a funny acidic smell too)
I took the battery to the shop, thinkin' perhaps this depleated it, but the shop said it holds a charge and is fine, so I dont need to recharge it.
...Huff! This sucks.
So I took 'em off, and it still happened untill I reset the Computer buy taking off the Negative.
Cool! Its all good now, and works well.
So I saw that Sigma Auto has 2 Grounding Straps for Grounding the Exhaust...
Theres a supposed increased Torque response (I doubt it, but we'll see).
It also apperently reduces Static Electricity in Exhaust, as well as reduces vibration noise from Exhaust (This's what sold me).
One is connected from the Exhaust where the Muffler bolts on the Midpipe to the Chassis. The other is connected from the Exhaust where the midpipe bolts on the Catalytic Converter to the Chassis.
I put 'em both on, and the car ran fine... Oh! I forgot to reset the Computer to tell it about the new mod... ...Ok, did it.
DAMNIT! Now It started the same **** again... So I just now took 'em off.
So now my cars out in the driveway with the Negative disconnected again, and Im hopin' it fixes itself.
Why am I having this problem, is it a Double Ground thing?
Lookie Here:
(Also I didnt know until I read this picture that, theres a stock ground from the Firewall to the to the Manifold... I hadnt removed that one.)
Someone please help me, cus teh Mitsu Dealer Parts/Servis Dept. wants to charge me 53 bucks just to look at it, and Id have to remove the whole ground kit that I have in (the original ones that worked fine), and then depeneding whats wrong their gonna charge me out the @ss to fix it.
The service technitian said theres something not telling the computer that the battery is charging or that the alternators working.
Please
Last edited by CityKnight; Feb 18, 2006 at 01:30 PM.
Feb 18, 2006, 02:23 PM
#4
Maybe your shorting the system out. If you replaced the stock system, that may be the problem as well. As far as that exhaust thing goes.....I highly doubt that 2 pieces of wire are going to increase torque, especially since iits not interacting with anything mechanical, its just connected to a pipe with gas in it.
Feb 18, 2006, 03:09 PM
#5
I agree, it sounds stupid.
If Sun did it tho, then its worth a try I guess...
Heres the thing tho, how could I be shortening something out?
Dont other people here have the same things grounded, w/o problem?
Everything was fine, until I connected back to the cars Frame (the Firewall and the Pass. Side)...
(I guess the Exhaust would be the same thing, cus its on the Frame too)
If Sun did it tho, then its worth a try I guess...
Heres the thing tho, how could I be shortening something out?
Dont other people here have the same things grounded, w/o problem?
Everything was fine, until I connected back to the cars Frame (the Firewall and the Pass. Side)...
(I guess the Exhaust would be the same thing, cus its on the Frame too)
Feb 18, 2006, 08:12 PM
#9
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woa . . . i couldnt even follow what you grounded. That acrid smell youre smelling is a short in the system. Its the reason your battery light is coming on and your car is stalling out. Somewhere in that system youve got a bad cable, or have attached something you shouldnt have. What did you connect to on the alternator ? I posted a How To on grounding kits take a look at it b/c i KNOW that ive had no problems and as far as a digital volt meter was concerned i found a .1 - .2 volt increase as well as less voltage fluctuation. Not a huge gain but keeps the lights from dimming and my car idles at a beautiful 650 rpm with no problems 
As for the grounding straps for the exhaust, yes youve seen them on WRC cars . . its b/c those cars run HIGH octane fuel with NO cats . .. one static spark and BOOM . . id put straps on too 
. Your car however probably pretty safe even without them.
As for the grounding straps for the exhaust, yes youve seen them on WRC cars . . its b/c those cars run HIGH octane fuel with NO cats . .. one static spark and BOOM . . id put straps on too . Your car however probably pretty safe even without them.
Feb 19, 2006, 01:26 AM
#11
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wow thats really weird, the only thing i could think was that maybe you connected it to some positive connection, and as far as grounding the exhaust i dont think there is any electronics in the exhaust
Feb 19, 2006, 03:47 AM
#12
Originally Posted by Walkingchaos
woa . . . i couldnt even follow what you grounded. That acrid smell youre smelling is a short in the system. Its the reason your battery light is coming on and your car is stalling out. Somewhere in that system youve got a bad cable, or have attached something you shouldnt have. What did you connect to on the alternator ? I posted a How To on grounding kits take a look at it b/c i KNOW that ive had no problems and as far as a digital volt meter was concerned i found a .1 - .2 volt increase as well as less voltage fluctuation. Not a huge gain but keeps the lights from dimming and my car idles at a beautiful 650 rpm with no problems As for the grounding straps for the exhaust, yes youve seen them on WRC cars . . its b/c those cars run HIGH octane fuel with NO cats . .. one static spark and BOOM . . id put straps on too . Your car however probably pretty safe even without them.
As for the grounding straps for the exhaust, yes youve seen them on WRC cars . . its b/c those cars run HIGH octane fuel with NO cats . .. one static spark and BOOM . . id put straps on too . Your car however probably pretty safe even without them.Neg. to Tranny
Tranny to Head
Head to Throttle Body
The Alternator goes soley to the Neg. Terminal.
As the picture illustrates to go to the Firewall, and from the Firewall to Pass. Side; Thats when It started givin' me problems... So I assumed it was a double ground thing, cus the battery is already grounded to the body primarily.
I did see your How-To.
The illustration above, was taken from a similar thread which you also posted in.
I think it was the one where JChangsta asked about what grounding is for...
It was all fine until I Grounded to the Firewall and then from there to the Pass. Side Frame, as it illustrates... and then ZONK... It all went to hell.
Last edited by CityKnight; Feb 19, 2006 at 03:58 AM.
Feb 19, 2006, 09:06 AM
#14
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ya the reason i asked about the alternator is b/c its the only thing that could generate enough power to double the system out and make that short youre talking about. Although as far as grounding to the fire wall . . . i have no clue Goodluck tracking it down.
Goodluck tracking it down.
