Blu_lite

Excuse the poor electrical diagram and not using the proper symbols, but could some one verify this is the connection diagram for option 3, thanks!

Could someone please post the location where the ballasts are placed i have seen on pic so far from another thread, but i am looking for other location ideas

DVDee

iTrader: (4)

I'm having a hard time finding these two parts. "50kohm resistor, 28kohm resistor" radioshack doesn't have them online. Any suggestions?

kalpakiotis

iTrader: (1)

You can try www.digikey.com and www.newark.com, both are electrical wholesalers.

fitzd

Hey guys I found a good deal on a HID kit and am wondering if they are good for the OPTION 1 modification.
I'm not sure if it's okay because they don't mention anything about remote lead turn on, so...

Here's the description of what they come with.

Kit includes everything you need to convert to HID: HID Bulbs, Ballasts, Adapter & Wiring Hardness



And here's a solution they give to a common DRL problem.

Use a wire relay harness. The wire relay harness will allow the ballasts to get power directly from the vehicle battery thus eliminating any low voltage issues through the stock wiring. The relay harness will connect to your positive and negative sides of the battery and then quick connect to each ballast and also connect to one of your stock headlight power plugs. When you turn on your headlights the relay harness will switch over and allow the ballasts direct current draw from the vehicle battery.
In some new vehicles with computer controlled headlights that the relay harness does not correct the HID strobe effect due to the fact that the vehicle is not sending enough voltage to power the relay. In this case please go check with your local mechanic shop to work it out.

If these are good then I'll pick up this kit!

Thanks in advance

Blu_lite

You are still going to need some modification because the DRL portion of the signal is not a low voltage, it is a pulsing 12VDC, it is just like flick a light switch really fast. Think about it this way, florscent light in your home would have a bulb (your hids) and a ballasts (like the ballast you have to power your HID) when you flick on your florescent lights it usually takes a sec or two kick start the ballast aka transformer. so when you are flicking the light switch really fast (your DRL) the ballast sometimes doesn't get enough juice to light the bulb. Not only will you strobe the light but you will also damage the bulb and the ballast.

I have tried option one and it is not the best thing to go for. Your cap will only release just enough power to cover when the drl signal when it is cycling through the pulse but you can still see the HID flickering just a bit when you are idling. I would suggest you splice the parking lights instead.

afeudale

blu_lite,

Using option 1 the HID's shouldn't flicker at idle. Are you putting the cap in parallel with the relay? If it does, somehow flicker at idle, it means your relay is somehow drawing more current than a standard relay and then you can just use a larger cap (higher uF).

Yes, splicing the parking lights is by far the easiest, but remember, these mods (option 1 - 3) are for those wanting to keep the factory wiring in tact...if you ARE splicing your factory wiring, there are lots of easy ways to achieve the desired effect.

morsredigo

Hi Guys,

i have an 2009 Lancer GTS and i just put in HID and have had the same flicker issue. i have tried solution one and put a Cap 35v 2200uF in parallel in the line. it seems to have not solved the issue they still flicker. do i need a higher uF cap?

Thanks!

Blu_lite

I am using a 5000uf and you can still notice a slight bit of flickering, i really don't suggest using option 1

02-Lancer-Es

iTrader: (21)

I sell hids locally and my kits have a special digital harness on them for that

morsredigo

thanks for the tip blu lite

Blu_lite

morsredigo, i konw this thread is for using hid without cutting into the factory harness but though all the options i have explorerrf i believe splicing the parking light is the easiest thing to do with the whole system still looking stock. First the wires are right beside each other making it easy to cut and solder without snaking your fog signal back up to the head lights and vice vera for the low beam signal. Second is that you still would have the parking lights as your drls, just one less thing to get hasselled by the cops. I don't know it is in winnipeg and in toronto its a pain. I would suggest you get the extra wire harness with the relay so the power comes directly from the battery instead of the factory harness, since the parking light wire were designed only for 35W, atleast what i remember.
Many have splice the fog light but the problem with that is when you hi beam, let say to signal people or let them go ahead, the fog light signal will cut off (which are now your hids) and turn hids on and off freuqently shortens life of bulb or ballast.

morsredigo

Hi blu_lite,

thanks for the advice =)

well i found a fix for solution number 1 i have put 2 capaciters in parallel on the provided wiring harness. both are 35v 2200uF. there is zero flicker on the HID. infact i put a volt metre on after the capacitors and have a constant flow of power at 35v which is perfect for the HID kit i purchased.

as my goal is not to modify the stock car so i dont void warrenty or break any laws which are a pain in the *** in manitoba especially on sunday night cruise night where you can get a ticket for anything!

Thanks again everyone!

Blu_lite

Thanks for the tip. Are you using an analog volt meter or a digital b/c the digital ones don't refresh the reading fast enough for it to pick up gap in the pulses of the signal. I will try it at home over the weekend and let you know.

mughal87

iTrader: (1)

hey guys.. anyone tried OPTION # 3 with success?

I will be trying that method on Friday hopefully.. just wanted to know.. if anyone had success on that method

Thanx

mughal87

iTrader: (1)

has anyone tried this (http://www.hidlook.com/catalog/strob...les-p-345.html) ? to eliminate flicker ?

i have installed HID's.. for now.. will keep them 24/7 on ON position. waiting for the electric components to try out OPTION 3.. hope it works