afeudale: You might want to think about the voltages on the caps you're suggesting. One picture shows a 16v cap, and another a 10v cap. The car runs about 14.4 volts nominally, and the cap should likely be 2x the voltage. That would suggest using caps rated for 35 volts. The last thing we want are the low beams failing completely at night because of a burnt up cap

 

if i use option one, are my HIDs always on because of DRL?

 

okay so i have answers for myself.. blah.. how long are the life of HIDs normally? or do we measure them by how many miles

 

sorry, havent read the entire thread but something came up at work.

it was interesting, I work on volvo trucks, and when going into programming the light control module. You have the option of turning off the DRL's. So I bet mitsu has the same option (i may be wrong) its just the question of getting them to do it....it might take a little bribing?!

 

The ECU has the options to turn them off line 42 or 52 needs to be modified in the main programing of it. However, no one (dealership) seems to have the tools to do so.

 

I was following this thread when it came out and i finally got an HID kit. The kit i got was from SmartEye HID systems it didn't come with the extra relay as in your description and the kit looks like it has one too many cables attached.

The only way i can describe the cable is like an "X" top right cable is to bulb, top left is open, the junction is where the whether proof plug is then bottom right goes to HID ballast, bottom left is open as well.
Could someone offer me some advise, i would like to go with option 3 listed at the beginning of the thread but i was wondering if the corner lights of our cars will turn on when the switch is in position 2 and 3? Thanks in advance!

EditedEditedEditedEditedEditedEditedEditedEditedEd itedEdited
These are the pictures if my descriptions is confusing

 

Just one more thing i forgot to ask was where did you guys mount the ballasts?

 

for option three. the capacitor can be from 100 uF to 200 uF right? And the Henries have to be more than 2? I mounted my ballast on the sides near the head lights of the car. would you like pictures?

 

yes pix please of where ballast was mounted. im gonna get hids soon n dun feel liek drilling new holes in lol. my buddie installed hids on another car n juss mounted the ballast wit a randum screw that was already on the car...i think it was for mounting the battery...so he stacked the ballast bracket on ther.....is that good? lol

 

^1, pictures are always good. can you snap some of the soldered pics for option 3 alwell if you have thanks!

 

oh, mitsu does have the tools to do so... I don't doubt it, see:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=324723

POST # 6

they can program everything. Its whether it legal or not. I have the M.U.T. III program at work but its only for trucks (mitsu fuso's) and I don't have the ability to go into it. But I am sure that they can program it, search in your FSM's

 

brian360, the pictures are for illustration purposes only - the writeup says 25V or higher for the caps (and 35V or 50V is even better)...I hope people are reading the description...

ashun, yes you probably put your cap backwards, thats why it popped...be careful...
HID's last about 3000hrs on average.

Blu_lite, that kit you have is perfect. You dont need the rubber boot, so just cut it (Carefully) and you will have 2 sets of wires. 1 set goes to the HID bulb. The set with 2 plugs on the ends is the cable we modify (with capacitor, mosfet, etc)

ashun, the inductor option has been replaced by the easier/better MOSFET option, read the thread completely.

 

seems like alot of work

 

well, if 10 minutes is a lot of work, then yes, it is...lol...

 

just cutting the wires and all....