DIY Guide for flipflop trunk mod
Apr 12, 2007, 05:42 PM
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DIY Guide for flipflop trunk mod
Flip-flop Trunk Mod
Like the world needs another method on how to mod your trunk to get that flip-flop action, but this one might appeal to those who want to minimize how many cuts and holes they put into their trunk. Also to those who want to easily return the trunk operation back to stock setup.
The approach unusually simple in its approach and requires very few materials, which can all be picked up at your local hardware store for under 25.00 dollars.
Materials are the following :
4 short small flat head machine screws
Note : Pitch thread and diameter should match your
vehicle's OEM trunk lid mount bolts, just substantially
smaller in length.
2 hitch pin clips [secure pivot pins] (3/32” x 1 5/8”)
2 universal clevis pins [used as pivot pins] (¼” x 2”)
2 cotterless hitch pins w/rings [used as locking pins] (¼” x 1 ¼”)
1 inch aluminum square channel tube (4 ft section)
Like the world needs another method on how to mod your trunk to get that flip-flop action, but this one might appeal to those who want to minimize how many cuts and holes they put into their trunk. Also to those who want to easily return the trunk operation back to stock setup.
The approach unusually simple in its approach and requires very few materials, which can all be picked up at your local hardware store for under 25.00 dollars.
Materials are the following :
4 short small flat head machine screws
Note : Pitch thread and diameter should match your
vehicle's OEM trunk lid mount bolts, just substantially
smaller in length.
2 hitch pin clips [secure pivot pins] (3/32” x 1 5/8”)
2 universal clevis pins [used as pivot pins] (¼” x 2”)
2 cotterless hitch pins w/rings [used as locking pins] (¼” x 1 ¼”)
1 inch aluminum square channel tube (4 ft section)
Apr 12, 2007, 05:43 PM
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...continued
Equipment needed :
Drill and ¼ inch metal drill bit
Circular saw with metal cutting blade (preferably one that can be used for grinding as well as cutting through the aluminum channel). I recommend using a cut-off blade which works great.
Optional : Someone to help you.
First step will be to cut yourself a piece of the aluminum channel. For my vehicle I cut about 8 inches for each side of the trunk. In the end I only needed roughly 5 inches for each side (you may require more or less), but you will want something to hold onto when you cut your channels. Saves on the doctor bills.
Next, you will need to trim off one side of the channel creating a “C” channel. The easiest way is to trim closely across the length just beyond the length you will be using in the end. Then cut straight across the cut you just made leaving you two pieces. You can discard the thin top piece as you will not need it.
Next you will to trim off the corners slightly, then grind them down so they have nice natural curve to them. Also grind down all the remaining sharp flanges created when you cut the channel. This eliminates any sharp edges and provides for a more professional look.
Drill and ¼ inch metal drill bit
Circular saw with metal cutting blade (preferably one that can be used for grinding as well as cutting through the aluminum channel). I recommend using a cut-off blade which works great.
Optional : Someone to help you.
First step will be to cut yourself a piece of the aluminum channel. For my vehicle I cut about 8 inches for each side of the trunk. In the end I only needed roughly 5 inches for each side (you may require more or less), but you will want something to hold onto when you cut your channels. Saves on the doctor bills.
Next, you will need to trim off one side of the channel creating a “C” channel. The easiest way is to trim closely across the length just beyond the length you will be using in the end. Then cut straight across the cut you just made leaving you two pieces. You can discard the thin top piece as you will not need it.
Next you will to trim off the corners slightly, then grind them down so they have nice natural curve to them. Also grind down all the remaining sharp flanges created when you cut the channel. This eliminates any sharp edges and provides for a more professional look.
Apr 12, 2007, 05:44 PM
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...continued
Additionally it is recommended that you sand the channel down with some rough sand paper to provide for a brushed metal appearance. It also ensures they are not rough edges that may cut wiring or other items.
Now that you have your pieces cut you will need to determine the placement of the bolt holes by referencing the OEM bolt installs. You will want your holes to be just a little larger than required so that the bolts will seat partly down into the channel. It is important that the bolt heads are not completely flush with the bottom of the channel. You need a little height for the pivot action to work correctly.
Dismount the trunk lid from the support arms. You can now place your newly prepared channels on the arm to verify fitting. Notice here you can easily mark where you need to drill the mount holes on your channel by pushing a pencil through the holes and parking your drill point.
Next you have an option on how you want to approach things. You can either position and mark where you want to drill your pivot holes, then drill the pivot holes using a bench vise OR if you have someone helping you, you can have them hold the trunk lid in place while you drill through the channel and through the support arm. I took the latter approach.
IMPORTANT : You will be drilling the pivot hole in the lower corner of the support arm closest to the trunk lid.
Then drill one more lock position further down the arm. This is the locking pin for
Now that you have your pieces cut you will need to determine the placement of the bolt holes by referencing the OEM bolt installs. You will want your holes to be just a little larger than required so that the bolts will seat partly down into the channel. It is important that the bolt heads are not completely flush with the bottom of the channel. You need a little height for the pivot action to work correctly.
Dismount the trunk lid from the support arms. You can now place your newly prepared channels on the arm to verify fitting. Notice here you can easily mark where you need to drill the mount holes on your channel by pushing a pencil through the holes and parking your drill point.
Next you have an option on how you want to approach things. You can either position and mark where you want to drill your pivot holes, then drill the pivot holes using a bench vise OR if you have someone helping you, you can have them hold the trunk lid in place while you drill through the channel and through the support arm. I took the latter approach.
IMPORTANT : You will be drilling the pivot hole in the lower corner of the support arm closest to the trunk lid.
Then drill one more lock position further down the arm. This is the locking pin for
Apr 12, 2007, 05:45 PM
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...continued
normal use so that the trunk will close properly when not in display mode. If you haven't yet, mount the channels to the trunk lid using the short flat head machine screws.
After completing the above tasks for both support arms, you can now mount the trunk lid and insert pivot pins. Once pivot pin is inserted, slip on the retaining clips. This will prevent the pivot bolt from coming out.
Then insert the locking pins. At this point, if you had everything lined up correctly, the trunk lid should close and secure properly.
It might be recommended to adjust your latch and trunk lid bumpers so that the trunk is nice and tight for subwoofer activity. We don't want any rattling, though I didn't experience any additional when I did mine.
Now that you know it secures for traveling means, you will want to test out the display mode. Remove the lower locking pin (pull ring). This will allow the trunk lid to pivot.
This is where you will need that friend again. Level out your trunk in display mode so that it is straight and level with your vehicle lines. You will want to drill a third and final hole in the support arm that will hold the trunk lid in this position.
After completing the above tasks for both support arms, you can now mount the trunk lid and insert pivot pins. Once pivot pin is inserted, slip on the retaining clips. This will prevent the pivot bolt from coming out.
Then insert the locking pins. At this point, if you had everything lined up correctly, the trunk lid should close and secure properly.
It might be recommended to adjust your latch and trunk lid bumpers so that the trunk is nice and tight for subwoofer activity. We don't want any rattling, though I didn't experience any additional when I did mine.
Now that you know it secures for traveling means, you will want to test out the display mode. Remove the lower locking pin (pull ring). This will allow the trunk lid to pivot.
This is where you will need that friend again. Level out your trunk in display mode so that it is straight and level with your vehicle lines. You will want to drill a third and final hole in the support arm that will hold the trunk lid in this position.
Apr 12, 2007, 05:46 PM
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...final chapter
Once drilled, you simply place your locking pin in this hole to keep it level and clean for display. Abracadabra... No sagging trunk lid.
Depending on your desire, you can paint the assembly. I didn't want the pivot assembly to be the focus, so I painted it black to blend into my black trunk lid. The only chrome metal seen is the locking pin. Other than that, it looks like it was meant to be that way from the start.
Other than that, enjoy your new flip-flop mod. Remember, if you want to go back to stock setup, just remove the channel and reinsert your OEM mount bolts. The only remains of your mods are the 3 sets of holes in each support arm that were used for the pivot and locking pins.
So far I have been very happy with the outcome. Hope it works for you too.
I can be reached at bsc7080@yahoo.com for more questions.
Depending on your desire, you can paint the assembly. I didn't want the pivot assembly to be the focus, so I painted it black to blend into my black trunk lid. The only chrome metal seen is the locking pin. Other than that, it looks like it was meant to be that way from the start.
Other than that, enjoy your new flip-flop mod. Remember, if you want to go back to stock setup, just remove the channel and reinsert your OEM mount bolts. The only remains of your mods are the 3 sets of holes in each support arm that were used for the pivot and locking pins.
So far I have been very happy with the outcome. Hope it works for you too.
I can be reached at bsc7080@yahoo.com for more questions.
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