Also asked the same thing @ RRM

"I would do a break in. THe first miles will shed a lot of metal shavings etc.... It is good to get rid of those from the first miles and also look for anything excessive in that oil. Analyze it. Do not just dump it. Then go to the oil you are going to use. Save your money though. Do not go and use the expensive oil in it after you change. Not really going to do much for you. IF you like it then do it but it is not needed. THnx RRM"

 

Thank you for sharing the responses from the vendors.

"any GL4 gear oil will work". Bye bye synchros as you grind them into dust forcing the shifts.

"analyze it". Yeah, spend lots of money on that for 13 year old beater, then "save your money" by using any off-the-shelf oil (try Walmart brand for lowest price). Bye bye synchros.

This is truly bad advice for the Lancer, and for your situation. These guys are not addressing the Lancer specifically, they are giving generic advice. You are not racing, doing track days, or looking to spend crazy amounts of time and money on an $80k Porche. Read through tranny oil posts in the RA section to see the problems and solutions specific to our cars from guys who use them like you do. After half a day doing that, you'll see that what actually works best for our cars and is proven on Lancers for years now, boils down to the advice Cranswick and I are giving.

That said, it's your money.

 

ok, so RRM is Road Race Motorsports and they are highly regarded here in the EVO sections, that is actually where I first heard about them, also Jon from TRE Team Rip, is a trans builder of the Mitsubishi EVO transmissions and is very highly regarded on this site as well. He also has a lot of information posted on the site about what type to use and why...

See, I have read through the posts here, and that is WHY I am having all the problems I am having, the info isn't cut and dry, it is 50/50.... if it was something like 9 out of 10 said do it a certain way, then it would be a no brainer...

My 3 qts of Redline MT90 came today

is the OEM oil a synthetic or a dino oil? I ask, because it costs about the same as what Redline costs.... but If I need to go with a dino for the break in --- not sure what to do.....

 

So I also contacteD Shep on here, and they said they can't help me because it isn't one of their transmissions...


WHAT A LOAD OF CRAP!!!!!!

 

Ok, so here is where I am at....

Redline MT90, put it in, drive like a grandma for 500-1000 miles..... drain it, look for chunks or nastiness, fill up with new Redline MT90?

should be G2G?

 

don't drain it...take a small sample...

 

got the rebuilt tranny... it actually looks uglier than the one I removed.... so they place looks like they basically spraypainted the whole outside of the case in a gray color.. I don't think they even hot tanked the case or anything... so in some spots it looked chunky in the corners, and sure enough, they basically jsut painted over the grime, I scraped it with my finger, and a hole corner of just black powder chipped off.... seems kinda sketch, but it feels good.... and I also talked to the actual tranny guy that brought a bunch of trans to the auto wrecker, and he said he replaced the "rings" and that I should take it easy for a little bit, but they will be good to go after that...

OH WELL, the deed is done, I have it, and hopefully this weekend will have my Lancer running... will get pics up....

Just ordered my timing belt kit from rockauto $114.19 shipped should be here by monday

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....417238&jsn=365

 

not sure about 4G94, but the 4G69 doesn't like aftermarket timing belts...they seem to fail prematurely...

 

yeah, I heard that....... the kit I am getting from Rock auto has a mitsubishi belt


ok, so APPARENTLY I am WRONG!!!! CRAP!!!!!!!

if you look closely @ the picture, it actually says Mitsuboshi ---- and Made in Singapore...... GREAT!!!!! There goes another $60

I am tempted to return the other stuff now......

I know AISIN and KOYO are quality parts though......

AISIN Water Pump
AISIN Hydraulic Tensioner
Koyo Idler Bearing
Koyo Tensioner Bearing
Mitsuboshi Timing Belt
Water Pump Gaskets & O-Rings

 

I would be ok with aftermarket tensioners and pulleys, though I used OEM everything when it comes to valve timing, but I would definitely go with an OEM belt...especially with the 4G94 since there are much fewer parts involved...

 

ok, so.... I am going to tighten the flywheel bolts to 72 +/- 3 ft pounds per the fsm.... will have oil on the head flange, and blue threadlock on the threads----

how to I stop the flywheel from rotating the crank?


found that the timing belt I need is MD186376



is there a preferred place to order these online? Like do we have any vendor support and a discount code or anything like that from here?

 

mitsubishiparts.net used to be a vendor/sponsor here, but I think they got out of it, and the website changed hands...search around the forums for something, I don't know though.

I use jnztuning.net now, for nearly all my OEM parts, otherwise I use RTM Racing, a shop up here in Ontario, Canada.

To stop the flywheel from rotating, I made my own flywheel holder out of a piece of steel flat stock...drilled holes in it and use the pressure plate mounting bolts to hold it on and let the bar rest on the subframe or something sturdy on the car, while I torque the bolts.

 

jakermeister said to toss a breaker bar on the timing chain side..... so I did, the swaybar and a arm held it steady

22mm socket and a long 1/2" breaker bar.... the crank bolt is a 1/2" square hole, but I tried going into that hole and it appears to only be 1/4" deep, and I felt I didn't like that little engagement

 

if you hold it with the crank pulley bolt, be careful when you're taking the flywheel off that you don't break the torque on the crank pulley...otherwise for tightening, it should work fine.

 

so trying to bleed it...... is it supposed to take forever? I am keeping a very watchful eye on the level, and air is still coming out, I have bled out about 6 ounces by now.......