Yeah no CEL, it came on for a few seconds after I reconnected the battery but swiftly went away. With any luck it'll be solved with the new spark plugs and the new sensor, but I have to wait till friday to find out. If not, well looks like I'm gonna have to spread my money a little further or ask my parents for a loan, what with textbooks costing upwards of 200$ each this year (stupid sciences, a 250$ book lasts an amazing one semester before it's replaced).

 

Ok time for an update, it wasn't electronic, 4 valves we're bent. The mechanic thinks that the valves floated and smacked into the pistons causing the problems. This means another 1000$ to get on the road and I won't even have an update till tuesday at the earliest. Does anyone (mainly alchemist since hes the guru) have any idea how this could happen and how it can be avoided in the future?

 

sorry it's not electrical Just to confirm- all you did was swap the IM? That's it? I cannot think of a single reason your valves would float without having messed with the timing belt, the cam, the springs, the rev limiter or any of the other fun valve related things that may have gone wrong..... you should call mitsu about warranty work and get back to stock ASAP.

Although.... A grand isn't too bad though for valve replacement, considering they have to take the whole engine apart. Ask them when they're going to do it, and be there for the process. You'll learn a few things- especially if your mechanic is trying to get a quick grand out of you.

Sorry I can't be of more help. PM Boe with the link to this thread and see if he has any thoughts.

 

Yeah I have no idea either. My mechanics a nice guy, I doubt he's trying to swindle me. I can't think of any reason why the valves would float either, but apparently I was reading 0 compression on the first cylinder and like 15 on the rest.

 

wtf? ain't that the weirdest thing: im swap leads to bent valves?!?

perhaps there is a deeper reason to this you should look for so it doesn't happen again

 

bolt fell into the intake manifold? hey it's happened before ...

 

looks like you may have had something in the intake manifold. What i've seen before is that people custom port thier manifolds... even claim it's an RRM manifold, and don't clean it out properly.

The metal chips get all cleaned out in visible areas but up in the runners there will be some debri. Once the manifold sits for a bit the stuff hardens into a ball due to the lubricant used in porting. It usually won't come out until you start driving and get under increased loads.

Once your driving BAM... out it comes and it will mess with the valves/pistons/everything.

Before you okay the work have the mechanic do a leakdown test... the compression test can tell you that there is a problem... but it can't tell you where. If he does a proper leak down test he'll be able to hear leaking valves thru the intake or hear bad pistons thru the oil pan. Also have him verify cam timing... it is possible... however unfortunate, that this had nothing to do with the manifold but you just jumped the timing belt tooth. If you have some good miles on the car this is possible.

Do these checks so you know for sure what you'll be looking at and let us know what he finds out.

 

Boe- how many RRM knockoffs have you seen? How many have had the debris issue? how can buyers be sure they're getting a genuine RRM product?


tom- any updates? It would be weird coincidence, but the timing belt slipping could be an issue... but weird.

 

I'm fairly certain it was an RRM bored manifold, it was even powdercoated in their signature colour. He's checked the pistons and they're fine and only 4 valves we're bent which is rather fortunate. The only explanation I can think of is the camshaft was out of sync, but I have no idea how that could possibly have happened.

 

I sold amby the intake manifold (crap, at least I think I did, right?) Anyways, this was the replacement I got from RRM for the one I returned cause the powdercoat peeled off. so there is no question on whether its a "genuine" rrm manifold

As far as the other concerns, I dunno

 

if i bought a whole engine for 400 bucks you can buy a head for less.

 

If you bought a whole a engine for 400$ I think he might need your hookups

 

true, in fact......I reckon omar was selling one not too long ago.........I'd say pick up a used head and snag the valves from there.........hell, might as well slap on a ported head while your replacing the valve..........oh! and new valve springs

 

Yeah a little late there fellas, plus I live in Canada, I can't afford to wait 2 weeks to get a head from the States. The cars already at the machinist getting the valves dealt with. My only concern is that no one has any real idea how this happened so whats to stop it from happening again?

 

Well if it was a bolt or some other crap that fell in the head while swaping the manifold you guys might find something left of that thing