Low Oil Pressure VS Slipping belt
^Agree, and when I was searching the web for some answers the oil pressure sensor seemed like the cause of all of this. I decided to leave the sensor alone since whenever the oil pressure light would flicker the valves would make more and more noise, probably due to no oil. If the problem will come back I will get an oil pressure gauge and double check everything. For some reason I think the problem was caused by sea foam. Maybe this is the reason why you shouldn't use that additive on a high mileage engine?!
The first time I got the issue, Seafoam fixed it.
The second time, Seafoam had no effect at all, or very little. I got another oil pressure switch from the dealer(30$), installed it(5 minutes) and bam! The problem is gone. According the clerk behind the counter when I got the part, it's something that fails often on our cars.
Blaze thanks for the info. I called the dealer and they wanted $30.22 for the part as well. I found it at a local auto parts store for $8.72. I think the OEM part is the cause of the problem since Mitsu and Chrysler cars all use it and have the same issue of premature OPS failure. I never experienced having to replace the OPS in all the cars that I have owned.
I read somewhere that the OPS is not connected to the ECU, so there is no OBD code reading if the oil pressure light goes on.
Blue Streak Standard Brand makes this part for our 02-05 Lancers. P/N PS-253
The part is even made in Japan to boot !
http://www.standardbrand.com/Online%...g/Content.aspx
I read somewhere that the OPS is not connected to the ECU, so there is no OBD code reading if the oil pressure light goes on.
Blue Streak Standard Brand makes this part for our 02-05 Lancers. P/N PS-253
The part is even made in Japan to boot !
http://www.standardbrand.com/Online%...g/Content.aspx
Last edited by EdT; Mar 23, 2010 at 01:51 PM.
Just for the record if anyone else needs to know.
I changed it today and the light went off and everything seems good as far as I can see, fairly simple if you have a ramp like I did and just drive it up on the right side and you have access to it.
The OEM Mitsu part is the brand Niles PN 160 that is made in Japan and my replacement from Blue Streak Standard(SMP Intermotors) PS-253 which is also made in Japan is almost identical. The part already comes with Vibra-Seal thread sealant pre-applied, I just add a little more PFTE pipe dope for assurance, make sure to clean out the silicone sealant in the thread as the OEM OPS used 3M ATD 8672(8660) black silicone as a sealant as per the Factory Service Manual. I prefer pipe dope with Teflon tape as a better alternative to silicone because you have to wait at least an hour for the silicone to set and another 24hrs before you get full PSI criteria which is only 325PSI cured with silicone and with pipe dope you have 125PSI right away and 10,000PSI when cured, which mean you can drive the car right away without waiting.
Also don't forget to buy the socket to install and remove the OPS, since they are not standard size sockets, they are 1-1/16" socket, some sockets are designed can accommodate both 1" and 1-1/16 OPS.
I changed it today and the light went off and everything seems good as far as I can see, fairly simple if you have a ramp like I did and just drive it up on the right side and you have access to it.
The OEM Mitsu part is the brand Niles PN 160 that is made in Japan and my replacement from Blue Streak Standard(SMP Intermotors) PS-253 which is also made in Japan is almost identical. The part already comes with Vibra-Seal thread sealant pre-applied, I just add a little more PFTE pipe dope for assurance, make sure to clean out the silicone sealant in the thread as the OEM OPS used 3M ATD 8672(8660) black silicone as a sealant as per the Factory Service Manual. I prefer pipe dope with Teflon tape as a better alternative to silicone because you have to wait at least an hour for the silicone to set and another 24hrs before you get full PSI criteria which is only 325PSI cured with silicone and with pipe dope you have 125PSI right away and 10,000PSI when cured, which mean you can drive the car right away without waiting.
Also don't forget to buy the socket to install and remove the OPS, since they are not standard size sockets, they are 1-1/16" socket, some sockets are designed can accommodate both 1" and 1-1/16 OPS.
Last edited by EdT; Mar 24, 2010 at 04:36 PM.
I don't mind removing the old part with a Vise Grip, but on a new part it is another story as well 89ft/lbs of torque that is required to tightened the OPS is alot force to be using a Vise Grip, I would suggest using an adjustable wrench instead if you are on a budget since the bloody socket cost me like two OPS, but then again you have to look at the bright side that if I brought it to the dealer they would have charged $150 easily to do the same job and I don't even get to keep the socket ! ...LoL
Last edited by EdT; Mar 24, 2010 at 10:26 PM.
If its flickering at idle speed and goes away when you start driving, its usually a faulty oil sending unit. Buy a new one at the auto parts store, this happened to me when i had my galant, its the most common thing to replace if it starts flickering, however if it stays illuminated while driving, thats not good and can be a serious problem.
Last edited by EvolutionESX; Mar 25, 2010 at 06:33 AM.
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