Sicktght311

iTrader: (2)

BOV arrived today. Hopefully the flange did too. Installing that tonight and making sure it closes as much as possible during idle and partial throttle. HOpefully i'll see a little change. Wideband comes next week.

As for the idle. Without you guys help, i'm totally stumped, and i dont want to bring it to a shop where they will either A) not be able to get it to do that or B) charge me for 10 parts that still dont totally fix the problem

Alchemist

iTrader: (23)

don't get desperate yet! It's only been a couple weeks since you told us about the problem and none of us are there to see it- it took you five days to get the CEL codes (from the time of your first post) and then a week after coma told you to check the EGR you told us you'd checked a bunch of stuff. Besides if it's just a little idle issue there's no need to stress- if it's high idling then dying at a bad time, then ok it's a "major" problem If you take it to a shop they'll just blame your turbo.

You haven't done anything to your TB or IM, right? So there's no way one of those bolts is loose...?

What method are you using to check your vacuum lines?

airlinevomitbag

iTrader: (1)

This might sound dumb but is your throttle cable routed right? The valve cover gets damn hot and the jacket on the cable gets melty if its touching and then the cable will hang up randomly.

Sicktght311

iTrader: (2)

Haha i'm not gettin desperate. EVOM is my boredom fixer during work, so i sometimes get antsy when its extra slow in the office

Yeah i'm not worried about doing damage or anything, just **** and like my cars running right hehe. No i havent touched anything with the TB or Intake manifold. Vac leaks i've been checking by both ear, and removing vac lines one at a time plugging them up to see if any change happens. THe only thing i have left to check tonight besides the BOV (which isnt gonna fix the idle issue) is the FMU. I think the idle issue might have started at some point after i switched from the TSI 14:1 fmu to the blox 12:1 fmu. Not directly after the swap, but sometime after. Its a long shot but i'll just disconnect it tonight and take the car around the block not in boost.

Throttle cable is routed properly and free of any obstructions. Checked that last night as well as tightened it up a lil.

Sorry it took me a while to repost after certain suggestions. I was also dealing with a few other smaller unrelated probs that took some of my time up, not to mention starting a new job with news12 long island

Sicktght311

iTrader: (2)

Fixed the high idle. Turns out the bottom part of the cable where it connects to the throttle valve was all gunked up. I didnt see it upon first inspection. Sprayed it out with carb cleaner, loosened the throttle cable all the way. Idle is back to normal.

Now i need to figure out the lean narrowband condition at partial throttle spooling. Got the adjustable BOV in there, fully seated at idle and partial throttle so theres no more air leakage but i'm still getting it. We'll see what the actual AFR numbers are when my wideband gets here this week. Hopefuly the narrowband is worthless and the numbers are right on the money....

Alchemist

iTrader: (23)

Narrowband AFR gauges ARE worthless (damn here comes Airline trying to tell me that spending a year trying to get a decent AFR reading off of the narrowbands wasn't enough time ) the Zeitronix unit rules (zeitronix.com)

Sicktght311

iTrader: (2)

Yeah i figured Narrowbands are worthless, but like i said, i am A) running lean on the gauge during that condition B) i'm not hearing any knocking, C) the car pulls back a little almost like timing is being pulled.

I've got my wideband on the way, should be here tues or weds then i just need to get a bung welded in my downpipe and i'm gonna see exactly what the car is doing.

airlinevomitbag

iTrader: (1)

Narrowband is a ballpark gauge. Gets you in the ballpark. They should just label it as safe on the right and unsafe on the left. Like I've said before we aren't race tuning.

Kurt

iTrader: (1)

I just got the same CEL, P0507. I don't have any idle problems. It has always shot up to 1100 - 1200 rpms on cold start ups and settled down to around 700 rpms once it warms up. As of the now, the car idles fine. I checked the vacuum lines and couldn't find anything wrong. The throttle body is clean. I just can't remember the third thing to check.

ryant25bb

I dont know if it's been answered yet or if you have already got past this point but to check the egr valve(1)take the vac line of the egr valve and leave it still connected to the intake manifold. Connect a spare piece of vac line to your egr valve. And when the car is running plug the vac line that goes to your intake manifold and apply vac to the line coming off the egr valve. i just sucked on the line if you don't have vac pump. The car should idle vary bad a prob even die. If it doesn't your valve is bad. (2) You can also watch the valve and goose the throttle from under the hood and see if the shaft is moving while you rev it. If it doesn't it's stuck. Make sure the car is fully warmed up though because the egr valve doesn't operate until fully warmed up. When you do the second test everything should be connected back to normal. Hope this will eliminate one of the possibilities. I'v also had a idle prob for the past two months and im stumped.(rough idle)

Kurt

iTrader: (1)

The thing is, mine idles fine.