Hey guys

im currently running 2 10's in the trunk, but i got this strange rattle
if you open the trunk and look underneath, you'll see two bars running across, just pad thoes, and poof no more vibration there, i had vibration coming from the spoiler, i tightned the hold down nuts, no more vibration
there either, last spot, get some dynamat and put it on the back of your license plate, you should have all you problems solved, worked for me =)


late
Link286XT

http://home.talkcity.com/ThePits/link286xt/Cars.htm

 

lol ig to 2 audiobahn aw 1200x at 1000 watts and i got mro ethen that rattling i have my spoiler rattle, truck lid rattles, inside trunk deck rattle, licence plate rattles, my tail light make this loud ratling, and something else under the car rattles (its not he spare or the jack because i took them out of my car) what else can i frigin doo im gonna blow my trunk apart

 

Similiar situation for me. 4 JL10W3s with 2 500/1 AMPS putting out 620WATTS RMS a piece. My entire Trunk rattles slightly but considering the amount of SPL I'm pumpin I'm not complaining.

 

well my car htis hard as hell but it sound like my *** after i ate like 40 been buritos for lunch outside it is like there owkrin ont he road ro somehting i think it sounds horrible i dont even like to use it when people are around lol

 

after reading what you did too keep it from rattlin, there are a couple more steps that you can do to give yourself some really good SQ. first would be to get a soem JL W7's, those bad boys slam. then would be to custom make a ported box that shoots through the arem rest in the back. this will allow the best possible sound for the car with minimal rattle from the trunk. but for those who cant afford the W7 and an amp powerful enough to handle it, cover the holes on the upper trunk with dynamat and behind the liscense plate, i had two JL W3's and an DEI 1100D competition amp, that hit nicely.

 

hmmm never thoughh of dynamating the upper trunk deck i took out all the rubber **** that was flapping around and instead of having flapping rubber i have flapping deck cover lol thank for the tip

 

another place to put some dynamat is around the cd player, there are a couple of spots that rattle a little if you have a powerful enough system. another place to try is around the shifter and under the cup holder. i have one last place to put dynamat in mine, and that is buy the 6 1/2's

 

Those bad boys are allright. I had the 12W7 about 1 week after release. I abused it for about a month after which time it broke. The problem with that sub is the cone design IMO the W-Cone is supposed to be an improvement and indeed it is but is construction makes for a cheapy plastic sound if you listen directly to the subwoofer. As for Porting, actually venting the box works best from my understanding. In a Vented box you can almost double the soundwave output of the W7. I'd say with 2 12W7s on JLs future 1000/1 Class D amps and proper box/vehicle tuning you would have some serious SPL without sacrificing SQ. Although with my 10W3s I sacrifice very little actual Sound Quality inside the car. I do suffer from rattles in the rear but those are to be expected under the pressure conditions put on my car's trunk which doesn't have near enough pressure sealing it up. if you really want to get rid of rattles you need to make auxilary latching from the trunk lid to the car body.

 

hmmm u blew a w7 after only a month of use. and it makes a cheap plastic sound. are u sure u just werent sending a distorted signal to the sub and killed it. i doubt u were sending it more than 1500 watts so there is no need to say that u gave it too much power. sounds to me like it was a bad box/distorted signal. a company doesnt put in 7 years of designing and testing to have a superior speaker that has a cheap plastic sound. i am not a jl salesperson. never owned any of there products but have heard all of them that are on the market.

umm i thought venting was porting. there are different types of ported boxes but basicly just sealed, ported, and bandpass. If u ment porting a sealed box i would like to know what u are thinking. and doubleing the output of the sub just having a ported box seems a little high to me. usually u just get around +3db with average ported boxes and average tuning. great boxes(narrower freq band) with great tuning should get u around 4 or 5 more db. only time i have ever saw 6+(which is double the sound to the human ear) was with boxes that were one note wonders with great tuning of box and car and all equipment.

about all the rattling. umm have u ever thought of pointing the box away from the the back of the car. oh no its 6db lower in sound and the peak freq is now at 45hz instead of 35hz. oh my gosh. u dont like your hearing do u. thats the beauty of stereo equipment. after listening to it for a while it isnt as loud and u have to buy better stuff to make it as loud as the the first time u heard your old system.

if u want spl then u sacrifice sq, and vice-versa. u can have a 50/50 mix but most people just want it loud. not saying that sq systems cant be loud or that spl systems cant sound good its just that a 160+db system doesnt not sound good. feels good but just doesnt cut it inside the car.

practice save sound. use protection.

 

yea i found that listening to my system after a wile doesent quite giev me the vibration my ear drums deserve any more i mean they used ot acualy pound now it is down to a dull roar :-/ ha im my 2000 jetta that **** kicked hard as a mother f*ckermaybe it is cause i changed up boxes
hey anyone wanna buy a bandbass box with 4 huge *** telescoping ports that fits 2 12's? im lookin to get rid of it shipping will prolly be a ***** though....

 

I had a rattle coming from near my shift knob for the LONGEST time and it pissed me off. I padded everythign and still no luck. It ended up being SPARE CHANGE in the ash tray....For us slow kids, think of the easy stuff first