thedeatons

Hey guys, sorry to throw the flags up, but it's either that or throw my computer across the room... My stock US Lancer OZ engine is shaking like crazy at idle, but then it revs and runs fine... I have about 54000 miles on it, and at about 47000 I put Beru Silverstone Spark Plugs in it... Dealer said that was the problem, even though I didn't have this problem until they had been in for about 3000 miles... so, tonight, after having to drive my truck for a week, and getting nowhere with my troubleshooting, I bought NGK V Force plugs, which Pep Boys listed as OEM, and installed those... but no change. Now, the shaking slowly started at about 52000 miles, only at idle, and then at 54000, just before I stopped driving it, it threw a Service Engine Soon light... I have read the SES light posts, and they don't apply, as my problem is different... It acts like it's misfiring, but I'm getting spark at all four... I tested the resistance of the spark plug wires (I'm an Electronics Technician) and the resistance values did not seem too abnormal (about 1K Ohm for the short one and 2K Ohm for the long one)... Could the plug wires still be causing this problem?? I have not replaced them because I'm tired of tossing money away.... I have not had the code read yet, the dealer wants $74 for that, and I have a feeling it will just be a misfire code anyway.... Can anyone give me some suggestions?? Mitsu Techs are welcome... and please, no guessing, I would prefer solid advice, because I'm at my wits end..... P.S. By "shaking", I mean the engine is shaking all around in the engine bay, and the idle is rough... Thanks to all, James

tweakdsm

iTrader: (38)

whats the code? also might be o2 sensor...

thedeatons

Like I mentioned, haven't had the code read because that costs $74 at my dealer..... plus, I just read tonight on my warranty paperwork that I have a $100 deductible, so I think I'll try wires next.... They are scheduled for replacement at 60K miles....

swhskenr

iTrader: (1)

Hey THEDEATONS... 2 questions...

1) Go to like a Pep Boys or an Advanced Auto and they'll pull the codes for you. - Not really a question... maybe... Did you try that yet? hahahah

2) It sounds like your coil pack is misfiring. That happened to me about 7k miles ago.. Mitsu replaced it for free but it was still under warranty.. May cost you a buck fifty or so.. 150+ labor.. but it definitely sounds like a coil pack..

run the code at a shop and we'll know for sure..

thedeatons

sorry about that, so how do I test the O2 sensor??

rhyzin

iTrader: (1)

it's really hard not to guess unless either you got a code pulled for free from autozone or something, or someone was there physically to take a look.

you can check resistance in the ignition coils. the resistance between the plug that connects to a plug wire and the plug that connects straight down to the sparkplug should be 8.5-11.5 k(ohms). thats for the secondary coil check. primary is a bit more trickier and could actually burn the coil because there's a closed circuit involved. PM if you want instructions to that.

You can also check resistance on your idle speed control. you can probably find the instructions on how to do it on dsm websites like vfaq.com but haven't looked myself.

may not be related, but you can check your PCV valve if it's sticking since you've got lots of miles. mines was by 60k.

thedeatons

Wow, you're the guy i need to talk to, before I drop 80 bucks on wires..... let me reread what you just wrote, hang out for a moment

thedeatons

How could it be a problem checking the primary?? I'm not aware of any standard components that would be damaged by the little bit of voltage a Multimeter puts out, unless we're talking microcircuits here.... can you get me some instructions??
thedeatons@hotmail.com
so you're thinking it may not be the wires??

swhskenr

iTrader: (1)

deatons.. does it sputter when you hit the gas? sounds as if it misfires or is it just at idle?

thedeatons

no sputter, just poor idle, tach needle bobs up and down about 2-300 rpm and the engine shakes.... when plug wires are pulled individually at idle to see if there is change, the engine does bog, and doesn't rev properly, so i know all four are getting something, maybe just not enough, which is why i was thinking wires, plus, a friend told me that my wire resistance measurements sounded high at 2K Ohms for 7 inches of wire and 1K Ohm for 3 inches.....

thedeatons

Do you know of a way to clean my O2 Sensor and the oxygen sensor in the intake?? Could I use Isopropyl or would I need to actually wire brush them? Don't have much experience with this....

rhyzin

iTrader: (1)

got mail. you shouldn't have a bad o2 sensor yet. i've put mine through hell learning how to tune and mine is still good at 63k. also, o2 sensors are only in the exhaust.

thedeatons

Right, I was thinking of MAF meters, and couldn't remember their name.... So, I drove it in to work this morning, after adding a bottle of fuel injector cleaner, and disconnecting the negative battery terminal last night, and now the SES light is off, and it won't idle at all.... it wouldn't idle right after I first started it, so I don't think it was the additive.... maybe reseting the ECU has confused it, and now it can't compensate for a problem it hasn't picked it up.... DAMN IT! I really don't want to take it to the dealer and pay a fortune to fix this.... We're pretty tight right now, and a couple hundred dollars spent could be bad..... Can a code be checked after the SES light has gone away and the ECU has been reset??

rhyzin

iTrader: (1)

you might have a pending code and won't have a stored code until the light comes on.

a somewhat easy check to see if it's the MAF is to run with it disconnected. it will either try to stay at 2k rpms or go back and forth between 2k-3k rpms. if it does do that and the rpm isn't as low, then it could be the MAF. if you do take it to an autozone or a shop that checks codes for free, then the scan device should also be able to monitor other sensors so you could see if anything isn't working in the correct manner. including o2 sensor if that's a concern. what you would want to check are maf readings in hz, intake air sensor, stft and ltft, o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 1 sensor 2, and throttle position voltage. that's only if the code pulled seems to be irrelevant. hopefully the guy there can figure what are good readings. if its one of the expesive scan tools, you might be able to read timing also and see if it's within spec as one of the stickers under the hood.

with the hood open, you could also check to make sure all sensors are plugged in right. cam position sensor, crank position sensor, MAF, all injectors, etc etc. also check to make sure your negative cable of the battery is on tight and your wiring grounds are all secured to the chassis. i had a ****ty idle once because of a bad battery to ground connection on an older car.

agent5568

When i broke a piston. The car idled really rough, Could be a loss in compression, what mods do you have? You really should get the code from autozone, and I am pretty sure that Auto Zone lets you sign for tools with a driver license. If you get the code I can tell you what it means and the procedure to correct it.