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Random misfire only at operating temp

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Old Jun 20, 2015 | 06:42 PM
  #16  
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I figure with how terrible it sounds i shouldn't have run it but i had to record data

This is from when i was recording data with the scanner
Was holding it at about 2500 , then you can tell when i let off the throttle
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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 05:35 AM
  #17  
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So thanks for reminding me of the iac because i checked and my brother had apparently tightened the screw on top of the throttle body all the way down, so i backed it out and the car started, with a steady idle......for about thirty seconds then terrible tapping from the head and the car bogging out ....
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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 12:19 PM
  #18  
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what screw?
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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 07:22 PM
  #19  
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Don't know the exact name but it's the one they talk about in this thread. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...ody-screw.html
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 08:37 AM
  #20  
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yeah, you shouldn't be screwing around with that...
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 09:14 AM
  #21  
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bad injector, iac motor or leaking intake manifold.
check gaskets and related hoses for manifold.
just replaced the iac motor (it could be called something else)
check a bad injector get a long screwdriver and put your ear on the handle and but to the injector you should hear the injector clicking open and closing at idle. check all four. if its stuck open your be running rich with misfires stuck closed mean lean with mis fires. if it is clicking in rhythmic pattern it could be clogged. clogged with carbon build up or any other debris.

or you have a timing issue that last video scares me in to thinking you are losing a valve sounds pretty bad. metal in the oil? can you show us a log at WOT?
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 06:09 AM
  #22  
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I would keep logging but since it starts and sounds terrible I'm just going to take the cover off and take a peak at the top end of the head , figure out what's screwed and needs to be replaced under there, if need be dig further, and then take it from there, it's making it hard to sell this car with a messed up head since it's r title
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 06:13 AM
  #23  
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I could also just take it to the dealer and they will diagnose it for a hundred bucks but i don't trust stealerships for anything
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 12:37 PM
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Finally had some spare time and took the valve cover off to find this....

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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 12:38 PM
  #25  
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All the others are solid in place
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Old Jul 1, 2015 | 11:07 AM
  #26  
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Can i just get new valve lifters or should i get the rocker arms too, haven't really torn into a head before
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Old Jul 1, 2015 | 02:11 PM
  #27  
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Nor have I. But I'd say do it all since your in there.
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 08:59 AM
  #28  
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Well i can't look at the FSM on my MacBook because it's posted on here in a file type that only opens on Windows, so if anyone could screen shot the section on disassembling the head that would be very helpful and much appreciated, i found a head at a salvage yard for 200 but i hate buying parts that aren't new
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 12:37 PM
  #29  
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where are the pistons?...that looks normal to me... the lash might be a bit much, but depending on which piston is at TDC, and what stroke it's on, determines what valves will be fully closed (wiggly rockers)...

I think you're over-thinking the whole thing...have you looked into the IAC I mentioned?
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Old Jul 3, 2015 | 08:37 AM
  #30  
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I probably am overthinking things as i often do, once thought i fried my friends ecu when it ended up being the battery fuse, but anyway, i don't know how to check the iac, and it just seems odd to me that only the rockers on the intake side of cylinder one (exactly where the noise seems to come from) would be wiggling even the slightest when all others, intake and exhaust are very firm in place, gonna turn the crank by hand, then if they're still the only ones loose this would be my problem, or maybe not, I'm extremely frustrated at this point and have little money for parts for the next couple weeks
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