pumpdog720

iTrader: (1)

Went to Auto Zone and got some codes pulled for my SES light.

- PO421 - That is for not having the cat with my header. Showed code twice.
- PO304 - misfire on 4th cylinder. Possibly the cause of my problem. Just bought a new coil pack from dealer and will be installing when it stops raining.

I also got this code twice:
- PO102 - something with some sensors in the intake (MAF or throttle body) Can anyone tell me anymore about this code?

Thanks.

EvoLancerVll

I have the same problem.

I have intake, test pipe, muffler, groundwire kit, and PB. This only happens to me when the engine is in a low rpm in any gear. It is the most annoying and embarressing thing I have had to put up within the 2 years of owning this car. The car now has about 72,000 miles on it. It has been happening for over a week now. I changed my plugs about a month ago. This happened before whenever my plugs went bad but this time its 10 times worse!!

I hope we can figure this out because im afraid to make a left at lights while traffic is a mile away!

This probably has nothing to do with this situation but ive been releasing a lot of white smoke from my exaust for about a year and a half (mostly happens when the car sits idle for a bit). Ive been told it was oil burning. Ive been told it was due to being cat-less. Anyways...

pumpdog720

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like same to mine, check with Auto Zone if you are having a misfire on any cylinders. I have seen many people getting same misfire on cylinder 4, not sure why that one.

Also, white smoke could be oil burning. Check your oil frequently, if it's ok, then that's not it. Also with cat-less it happens also, I've seen it before and it's pretty harmless for your car but not the enviroment. But as long as it's not oil burning, your fine.

EvoLancerVll

i think it is oil because drops of water come out of the muffler. I was told to check the rings but i dont have time or another car to take it to the mechanic and have it sit there.

pumpdog720

iTrader: (1)

Ya, that's what sucks trying to tune a car that's also your daily driver like me also.

But just for yours and everyone's info. I changed the coil pack on the 4th cylinder and now my car is runninf perfect!

$114 including tax from the dealer for new coil pack.

EvoLancerVll

damn, ill have to hold off from re-painting my lip and grill to get this crap. this sucks


Edit: what do you think caused this?

pumpdog720

iTrader: (1)

Mayeb the piggyback? I ran fine with all my other mods, then after I got the PB, that happened. Not right after and might not even be that... but who knows...

Saint47

iTrader: (1)

I'm having this issue with my car right now, I had a CEL i checked it out and it throw two codes for the cats.. i have no cats. i changed the plugs and it ran awesome! the next day it started to do it again still no CEL ever since i deleted the codes its been about 4 days.. maybe a coilpack? I'm going to get my DMM out and check the coils anyone know the spec on the coils? as to how many ohms its suppost to have?

Saint47

iTrader: (1)

bump?

CJBarker2

I hate to flog a dead horse, but... BUMP!!

I am having a bit of trouble with sputtering on the opposite end of the tach. My '02 OZ Rally has had the fuel pump checked, MAF, new spark plugs (it ran perfectly fine on platinum plugs for over a year, but they are iridium *shudders* My Bosch plugs weren't in stock Either way, it's doing it on both sets), coil packs swapped around and then back, oil level is good, new plug wires (I'll swap the old ones back tomorrow and update) and probably a few other things that would go into it.

All I've done to the motor is throw on a set of racing headers, high-flow cat, and I'm finishing the exhaust this week.

CEL present that is for EVAP and EGR flow. Working on fixing that, but it's not quite at the top of my list. Gotta be cost-effective, trying to move in a couple of months. The sputtering threw a code for multiple misfire, but the guy at the auto store wouldn't chech to see which cylinders it was showing. Some service. Anyway, I can only tell when I get a code by making a good guess. The dash light is either burnt out or disabled. Same with the downstream O2, which is something I was going to do, anyway.

This only happens when I get down on the gas. I have a little habit of winding out all four gears in the automatic at least once or twice a day because I drive interstate pretty often.

I suspect that the whole car could be a dud at this point. I just need her to last until I can find and rebuild a motor and transmission. I don't want to fork out for a set of coil packs, but I can get them for $54 and have them here in two or three days if need be.

250k on the motor and transmission, but I'm not sure what the idiot previous owner did to this baby. Aftermarket speakers, for sure, but there was a lot of jury-rigging, much of which I am uncovering as I go. A short in the line on the oil sending unit, and nothing fixes it, so I need to find a good gauge to put in the cluster. (Plan on replacing the pump just in case.)

Please, someone come across this thread with some experience! I need help! Haha

02modlanceroz

iTrader: (2)

Go to advance auto or autozone and have them scan it. If only 2 cylinders are misfiring. Swap the coils and see if the cylinders change that are misfiring. Also, just some cheap ngk plugs will do a great job for you. Iridium plugs are terrible.

ZAIN Ahmadeh

Hey i have 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer so the car was running even with the misfire and i could push gas without dying on me after 2 days i changed 1 spark plug and 1 coil so there's no more misfire i drove it and it was fine after like 10 minutes driving the car died so i gave it a jump and it started right the way i drove to my Dad's gas station and when i push gas it dies it was not like that do u guys have any idea what is the problem now even tho it starts with a jump

EdT

Are you able to restart it after a 10-15 minute wait ?