***Official SW Ohio Chat Thread***
There really isn't that much to it, but use a good (Craftsman or better) flare wrench! It's a good idea to clean around the fittings to make sure dirt doesn't get in the line when you put it back together. Break the nuts loose at both ends of the line before you pull either end off. You don't want brake fluid dripping as you spend 10 minutes fighting with the other end.
Dave
Dave
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From: Northern KY near Cincy
Another thing to consider when doing the lines is to clean, clean and re-clean the calipers when you bleed them. The brake fluid has been proven to be a contributing factor to calipers peeling. It all starts at the banjo bolts and spreads from there. Use lots of brake cleaner and use it often.
Really? When did that get proven? My rear calipers were never bled, yet they peeled and my new front calipers have had fluid ALL over them and the clear coat on them is fine - even after being baked on the track all last summer. The majority of the peeling calipers have never been bled or tracked.
That said, it's always a good idea to keep brake fluid off of any painted surface.
That said, it's always a good idea to keep brake fluid off of any painted surface.
In addition to coating the edges of the pads and the top where the pin rides I coated the entire back side of my pads with anti-seize for good measure. You want very thin coats and be sure not to get any grease/anti-seize on the pad surface.
Yeah Paul, that fluid on the calipers thing is Mitsu's blatant lie to get out of paying for replacement calipers.
Yeah Paul, that fluid on the calipers thing is Mitsu's blatant lie to get out of paying for replacement calipers.
I got my brake line and pads installed today. the ss lines make a huge difference, I went to brake them in so i go down 4 mile rd. turned right on to kellogg ave.get by river downs and got ran off the road by this old man in truck with a horse trailer lucky do damage.
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From: Northern KY near Cincy
I would like to revisit my braking issues now that the Mid Ohio date is coming up and I'm sure this would be a useful discussion for anyone going to or planning to go any track events this year. Last year I boiled the fluid in my car at Putnam and I would like to avoid a repeat of that situation. Here are the reasons why I think it happened in order of importance:
1. Never changed the brake fluid
2. Kept checking the brakes before actual braking at the end of the straight
3. No air guides, and backing plates still on the car
4. Pad choice? (Hawk HP+)
The first one, yeah I'm an idiot. I never thought the fluid would boil, I figured I would fade the pads first. I was wrong. The second, I was a little nervous and couldn't find a clear marker to concentrate on so I kept braking a little early. I was also not used to the pads and the way they changed with temperature. The third, I am considering ordering the brake air guides and removing the backing plates. Any thoughts on this? And finally the pads. I know these aren't ideal track pads, but I assume they are good enough for someone that wants to go moderately fast on a road course while still "learning the ropes". Will another pad better suited for track days also help prevent fluid boil, or is pad compound not related to the transfer of heat from pad to fluid?
And where do you guys get the ceramic or titanium pad shims that are supposed to help fight heat tranfer to the fluid?
1. Never changed the brake fluid
2. Kept checking the brakes before actual braking at the end of the straight
3. No air guides, and backing plates still on the car
4. Pad choice? (Hawk HP+)
The first one, yeah I'm an idiot. I never thought the fluid would boil, I figured I would fade the pads first. I was wrong. The second, I was a little nervous and couldn't find a clear marker to concentrate on so I kept braking a little early. I was also not used to the pads and the way they changed with temperature. The third, I am considering ordering the brake air guides and removing the backing plates. Any thoughts on this? And finally the pads. I know these aren't ideal track pads, but I assume they are good enough for someone that wants to go moderately fast on a road course while still "learning the ropes". Will another pad better suited for track days also help prevent fluid boil, or is pad compound not related to the transfer of heat from pad to fluid?
And where do you guys get the ceramic or titanium pad shims that are supposed to help fight heat tranfer to the fluid?
good questions, I too am going the mid ohio event. Its my first track event an I"m in hpde 1 so I'll be learning alot. But I have stock fluid and stock brakes. I do have the air guides though. My fluid is basicaly brand new though, only have 2100 miles on the car.


