IN EVO Spotted Thread
Evolving Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 491
Likes: 0
From: INDY
No thanks I have been all the way around 465 (dont even ask). I like sprints not marathons.
Yeah the WW event would be fun to auto cross at. But Buschur and AMS show up so winning might not happen but it sure would be fun. Fun that is until something broke. I'm in the Same boat here I cant just pop of $k when ever. My house cost to dam much!
My R/A is my first FI car so I have done alot of research on how the Turbo(Turbo hot side and cold side, waste gate, exhaust, IC and pipes, BPV, and intake)functions and operates. The frickin technical side AKA ECU is what is the most complicated. But I have a firm grip now on how it all works and what they are actually doing when you get a tune.
On my first three lancers they were N/A. So I just started throwing mods on them.(Thank you RRM) Found out threw my research that on the FI side you cant just throw a CAI and TBE on with out a tune. You will screw up your A/F and lean the car to hell and back. So mild mods are my plan until the 3 year warranty goes. Nice set of rims and tires, Maybe EVO X FMIC, and UR axle back.
Sounds like most of you guys have some pretty sick rides. With a crap load of mods.
Yeah the WW event would be fun to auto cross at. But Buschur and AMS show up so winning might not happen but it sure would be fun. Fun that is until something broke. I'm in the Same boat here I cant just pop of $k when ever. My house cost to dam much!
My R/A is my first FI car so I have done alot of research on how the Turbo(Turbo hot side and cold side, waste gate, exhaust, IC and pipes, BPV, and intake)functions and operates. The frickin technical side AKA ECU is what is the most complicated. But I have a firm grip now on how it all works and what they are actually doing when you get a tune.
On my first three lancers they were N/A. So I just started throwing mods on them.(Thank you RRM) Found out threw my research that on the FI side you cant just throw a CAI and TBE on with out a tune. You will screw up your A/F and lean the car to hell and back. So mild mods are my plan until the 3 year warranty goes. Nice set of rims and tires, Maybe EVO X FMIC, and UR axle back.
Sounds like most of you guys have some pretty sick rides. With a crap load of mods.
Evolving Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 491
Likes: 0
From: INDY
LOL Ok it was after a concert in Broad Ripple. I had just purchased my 02 OZ lancer and me and A chick I was dating (and her twin sister) left. Some how threw the haziness of that nights events we ended up taking 465 North. Long drive and not under good conditions.
Not what I meant to say. So said you have the same drivetrain as me. You have the X MR transmission. Not at all the same as the IX MR transmission.
The new Ralliarts have a detuned 4B11t that is physically similar to a decontented the Evo X motor, they have the Evo X MR style DSG gearbox, and the AWD system out of the Evo 9. No fancy Evo X spec AYC for Ralliarts. No Evo spec suspension or widebody or brakes either. Its more of a lancer plus than an Evo lite, meant to compete with he normal WRX.
The weak point from factory on the Ralliarts is the tires, they are trash. I couple bux on good tires will go a long way to improving the behavior of the new ralliarts.
The weak point from factory on the Ralliarts is the tires, they are trash. I couple bux on good tires will go a long way to improving the behavior of the new ralliarts.
Let me tell you dude, the 4 most expensive words in the English language are "while it is apart..."
The build is ongoing, I was originally planning to have it done in time for the last track sessions of the year, but that is past and the entire season has been a writeoff anyways. So screw it, no point in rushing it. I'm not bolting just any engine together with off the shelf parts, this is essentially a full race motor built with hand finished parts.
Machine work on the block has been completed and we verified the measurements for accuracy. The blueprint sheet reads like 4 sets of the same numbers. The bore diameter, for example, is exactly the same across the 4 cylinders to within 1 ten thousandth of an inch. The tolerances are ridiculous, and the shop refuses to compromise on anything. The difference between your average "tuner shop" and this race shop are obvious in the attention to detail.
The custom machined CP forged aluminum pistons had their combustion surface hand polished to a mirror finish to eliminate the slightest trace of the CNC machine tool path, burrs, or sharp edges that could induce hotspots and pre-ignition sources under high thermal loads. Prepping the combustion surfaces alone took 13 hours. On top of this, they are having their skirts coated with a PTFE (polytetraflouroethylene) binder with molybdenum/graphite filler. A high strength self lubricating teflon graphite ceramic coating that is specifically designed to expand thermally at the same rate as the forged 7078 aluminum alloy pistons. This will reduce sideloading friction that is increased and inherent to 2.3L stroker rod angles.
The block has been painted in signature "Nolden Gold". Nolden Motors uses this color exclusively for their fully built race engines. The color was chosen not only to be unique and designate their race motors, but also to make oil or other fluid leaks quickly and easily visible easily in race/competition conditions.
Here are a few teasers:
The build is ongoing, I was originally planning to have it done in time for the last track sessions of the year, but that is past and the entire season has been a writeoff anyways. So screw it, no point in rushing it. I'm not bolting just any engine together with off the shelf parts, this is essentially a full race motor built with hand finished parts.
Machine work on the block has been completed and we verified the measurements for accuracy. The blueprint sheet reads like 4 sets of the same numbers. The bore diameter, for example, is exactly the same across the 4 cylinders to within 1 ten thousandth of an inch. The tolerances are ridiculous, and the shop refuses to compromise on anything. The difference between your average "tuner shop" and this race shop are obvious in the attention to detail.
The custom machined CP forged aluminum pistons had their combustion surface hand polished to a mirror finish to eliminate the slightest trace of the CNC machine tool path, burrs, or sharp edges that could induce hotspots and pre-ignition sources under high thermal loads. Prepping the combustion surfaces alone took 13 hours. On top of this, they are having their skirts coated with a PTFE (polytetraflouroethylene) binder with molybdenum/graphite filler. A high strength self lubricating teflon graphite ceramic coating that is specifically designed to expand thermally at the same rate as the forged 7078 aluminum alloy pistons. This will reduce sideloading friction that is increased and inherent to 2.3L stroker rod angles.
The block has been painted in signature "Nolden Gold". Nolden Motors uses this color exclusively for their fully built race engines. The color was chosen not only to be unique and designate their race motors, but also to make oil or other fluid leaks quickly and easily visible easily in race/competition conditions.
Here are a few teasers:
Last edited by ktk; Nov 16, 2009 at 10:18 PM.
How do u like the RA so far? And what all have u done to it
I'm heavily into road racing/track days/time trials and such. Generating equal G forces in all four directions is what Evos were really designed to do. I leave the drag racing to the DSM crowd and the street racing to the ricers
Speaking of drag racing tho, Fat i had my headers and hotside ceramic coated in black satin at Indy Pro-Kote. I heard that you got your FatFab header coated there!
How you liking it so far? Is the coating holding up well?
Time to break out the continuity checker and look up all the harness wiring diagrams and get to checking continuity