launch control need input???
I have always pushed and held the ACS button until the chime and a message "AYC BRAKE OFF" with a yellow triangle appears which follows the "ASC OFF" message that appears with just a short push of the ASC button (I have a 2010 so the dispaly is a bit different than the '08-'09), or as I like to say "OFF-OFF". If I remember correctly the few times I inadvertantly left it in just "ASC OFF" (just one short push of the button) I was NOT in launch control as the motor would only rev to <3000rpm and the clutch would drag (like I was power braking a automatic with a torque converter) and quickly overheat! I will try a launch your way today and get back to the thread with my results.
Strange that every time I have read on how set up for "launch control", other than the Car & Driver video, incorrectly insists that the AYC brake must be turned off (push and hold the ASC button).
I wish Mitsu had documented this hidden feature as it must be less harmful on the SST than power braking in gear as I am sure some folk must be doing to launch from a red light; I suppose Mitsu did not want to support owners coming in and complaining that their "launch control" did not work, it might tax their technician's knowledge.
Last edited by kmart888; Mar 23, 2010 at 02:30 PM.

Glad yours worked today, hope it stays that way as a couple of others and now you have reported only intermittent success using this "hidden" feature of the SST
Funny, I don't know if I've ever tried it with AYC off. I've just always done it as that video stated. However, I've forgotten to turn off ASC and it definitely does not do it right. Just jumps to 3k, and you feel the clutch engaging with your foot on the brake.
Hmmm...This is informative stuff, I never tried to use the Launch control, probably cause you have to be in manual mode and since I'm missing my Rt arm I cant safely do that. Thanks for the info, I can look out for these problems.
If I'm not mistaken, with a stock setup you can't check the tranny fluid level.
When it comes to fluid, I 100% recommend the SSP Pro Red fluid. It's a bit more pricey but after puttting it in my car, it feels wonderful and alot of the jerkiness is gone. Way smoother shifts and once you run it for a bit you can deff tell the tranny likes it.
When it comes to fluid, I 100% recommend the SSP Pro Red fluid. It's a bit more pricey but after puttting it in my car, it feels wonderful and alot of the jerkiness is gone. Way smoother shifts and once you run it for a bit you can deff tell the tranny likes it.
Manual mode is not necessary, it just must be in S-Sport mode. This still a problem as the car will not shift automatically till about 7000rpm and the switch to set it back to sport or normal is on right side.
it is due to OVERBOOSTING that why you get the slowdown ..
lower your boost for 1st gear and you'll get out of the hole faster ..
The nice part about the gearbox is ..
You'll blow the engine 1st befor you break your gearbox or clutches
The clutches are STRONGER than the manual OEM
The things that break are non moving parts ..
lower your boost for 1st gear and you'll get out of the hole faster ..
The nice part about the gearbox is ..
You'll blow the engine 1st befor you break your gearbox or clutches
The clutches are STRONGER than the manual OEM

The things that break are non moving parts ..
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,574
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From: C.A Honduras!
it is due to OVERBOOSTING that why you get the slowdown ..
lower your boost for 1st gear and you'll get out of the hole faster ..
The nice part about the gearbox is ..
You'll blow the engine 1st befor you break your gearbox or clutches
The clutches are STRONGER than the manual OEM
The things that break are non moving parts ..
lower your boost for 1st gear and you'll get out of the hole faster ..
The nice part about the gearbox is ..
You'll blow the engine 1st befor you break your gearbox or clutches
The clutches are STRONGER than the manual OEM

The things that break are non moving parts ..

thanks gunzo
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