SSP - Pro Gold DCT Fluid
Every time I read "Mineral Oil" I think of the lineament you buy at the drug store
, that stuff cost more than SSTF 1!2010 MR-T (SST)
Stock clutch packs
OEM DiaQueen SST fluid
SSP trans Deep Sump
SSP Front mount trans cooler
OEM intake w/dropin
CBRD BBX full Turbo
AMS DP
RRE Rally test pipe
MXP II CBE
DP 1000 injectors
BlaqOps single pump
WORKS tune using OP (cleaned up by Bryan)
Green relay (yeah that’s it, it MUST be a faulty fuel pump relay!)
Last edited by kmart888; Jan 20, 2011 at 02:56 PM.
Waste of $
I did my transmission fluid change over the weekend at 14K w/ Diaqueen and realized it is a waste of money. The fluid was in good condition and I don't notice any difference in shifting (not that I had problems before). The filter looked good, and oh BTW Diaqueen is green so as soon as any fluid passed thru it will turn from white to green. I wont' even touch my tranny fluid for at least another 45K miles.
I did my transmission fluid change over the weekend at 14K w/ Diaqueen and realized it is a waste of money. The fluid was in good condition and I don't notice any difference in shifting (not that I had problems before). The filter looked good, and oh BTW Diaqueen is green so as soon as any fluid passed thru it will turn from white to green. I wont' even touch my tranny fluid for at least another 45K miles.

Rich
The original flush recomendation from Mitsu was with Diaqueen. I recommended mineral oil because of the fact that Diaqueen is $150 per gallon, versus mineral oil, wich is fairly inexpensive. The reason I use mineral oil is because it basically inert, will not adversly react with any other oils, has a relatively low viscosity and drains well. Mineral oil is a common in service flushing fluid for a variety of applications and industries, including aviation for this same reason.
Regarding changing the oil sooner than the recomended by Mitsubishi 50k interval:
At 8k miles, the fluid in my SST came out a muddy brown. Upon removing the filter, I found casting sand in the filter. My reason for recomending that SST fluid be changed for the first time very soon is the fact that the majority of debris/contamination I have seen in several SST's appears to be break in/manufacturing related. After the initial fluid change, it seems that the fluid stays clean for much longer. Nissan recomends that the GR6 transmission have its tranmission fluid inspected at 12k miles, and replaced at 18k miles. This interval seems more reaonable for the life of the tranmission than letting the fluid turn to mud.
10Sportback, you did not waste your money. Preventative maintenance is NEVER a waste of money.
Regarding changing the oil sooner than the recomended by Mitsubishi 50k interval:
At 8k miles, the fluid in my SST came out a muddy brown. Upon removing the filter, I found casting sand in the filter. My reason for recomending that SST fluid be changed for the first time very soon is the fact that the majority of debris/contamination I have seen in several SST's appears to be break in/manufacturing related. After the initial fluid change, it seems that the fluid stays clean for much longer. Nissan recomends that the GR6 transmission have its tranmission fluid inspected at 12k miles, and replaced at 18k miles. This interval seems more reaonable for the life of the tranmission than letting the fluid turn to mud.
10Sportback, you did not waste your money. Preventative maintenance is NEVER a waste of money.
Mitsu never recommended "mineral oil", not far as I can find! Another internet myth I think!
Every time I read "Mineral Oil" I think of the lineament you buy at the drug store
, that stuff cost more than SSTF 1!
2010 MR-T (SST)
Stock clutch packs
OEM DiaQueen SST fluid
SSP trans Deep Sump
SSP Front mount trans cooler
OEM intake w/dropin
CBRD BBX full Turbo
AMS DP
RRE Rally test pipe
MXP II CBE
DP 1000 injectors
BlaqOps single pump
WORKS tune using OP (cleaned up by Bryan)
Green relay (yeah that’s it, it MUST be a faulty fuel pump relay!)
Every time I read "Mineral Oil" I think of the lineament you buy at the drug store
, that stuff cost more than SSTF 1!2010 MR-T (SST)
Stock clutch packs
OEM DiaQueen SST fluid
SSP trans Deep Sump
SSP Front mount trans cooler
OEM intake w/dropin
CBRD BBX full Turbo
AMS DP
RRE Rally test pipe
MXP II CBE
DP 1000 injectors
BlaqOps single pump
WORKS tune using OP (cleaned up by Bryan)
Green relay (yeah that’s it, it MUST be a faulty fuel pump relay!)
After thinking about it and with the weather getting hot I'm glad I'm running the fresh stuff in my tranny and also to know that I didn't have the issues other people had. I was also wondering 2 things. Does the Pro Gold perform better in heat, and should I use the old Diaqueen for the flush next time?
x2, give it 30,000 and you'll see what used trans fluid really looks like. Mine was changed at 30,000 and the original owner said it was definitely dirty and probably should have been changed a bit sooner. I'll be changing mine in the next 15,000 miles.
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SSP Pro Gold is a high-tech transmission fluid developed from the latest base oil and additive technology. Created especially for the newer DCT transmissions, Pro Gold exceeds clutch friction and wear protection requirements for all DCT transmissions. Pro Gold fluid is a extreme performance synthetic fluid suitable for use in all DCT set ups, and is specially formulated to protect your transmission in daily driving to full Race applications.

Our Price - $ 200.00 (4 liters)
http://www.sspperformance.com/produc...er-container-/
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Our Price - $ 200.00 (4 liters)
http://www.sspperformance.com/produc...er-container-/
.





