Any more info on this? You get the trans apart yet?

 

I think I will be going the MT-90/Shockproof mix as well for the warm months and most likely straight MT-90 for the colder months. I don't want to keep using factory fluids because they're so damn expensive. if the redline stuff works, I'll switch.

I like the idea of using shockproof in the tranny, especially if it prevents metal-on-metal contact at high temps. Hell, if it can prevent contact in such a situation, the temps may never be reached in the first place if the thicker fluid can withstand higher face pressure.

 

I've tried straight MT-90 and didn't like it - it felt good cold, but increasingly "sticky" as the tranny warmed up. The shockproof & MT90 mix may be the better answer.

 

That's interesting as mine is the opposite. Clunky and sticky colder and smooth as a babies bottom when warmed up.

 

what do you mean by"sticky"? Are you saying it felt too thin at op temp or to slippery for the synchros? Please elaborate.

The only thing that would make me think "sticky" is if the synchros weren't disengaging or the stick felt like it was moving through tar.. If that were the case I'd suspect certain places in the tranny weren't getting adequate lubrication.

haha, that last statement just sounds wrong. lol

 

It's been a while, but as best as I remember it became more difficult to get the shifter out/in of gears. It moved easy enough once loose, but there was an initial resisitance to moving it, and more resistance to getting it into gear.

 

I believe the fluid is too thick when cold so it's harder for the synchros to do their job. Slippery lighter fluid is better for the synchros but doesn't protect as much.

 

Well i called this shop top speed, the owner can usually get just about anything from japan. But he wasnt there. His wife told me that she isnt really sure and to try and call back tomarrow. Did anybody find out about the evo 9 mr gears. I beleive a few pages back someone was saying the diagram showed them being bigger but they were gunna look into it? There has to be some alternitave other than a oil cooler and watching which clutch you use and gear oil you put in ur trans. By the way what did it cose to have TRE make the fittings and tap them into your trans for the oil cooler? And do you have any pictures of the lines running to and from the trans. Id like to get an idea if possible.......thanks

 

there you go! I would stick to factory fill OEM. I did not know that they were that expensive. in fact all my cars get mobil 1 all the way and factory fluids for the rest.

 

Well my point is that the OEM transmission fluid work great for daily driving but nobody has confirmed or denied whether it is fully synthetic. If it IS full syn, it should be able to cope with higher temps. The fact that some people are seeing failures with BG Synchroshift honestly doesn't surprise me because (although it works fantastic around town) it's an organic oil and thus breaks down more quickly at high temps. I'd naturally be suspect on a roadcourse.

The main idea of using aftermarket fluids will allow us to use various high performance products such as thicker fluids designed to avoid high face pressure situations such as Shockproof. They may not be spec'd in the owners manual, but if thicker synthetic fluids protect the transmission better under high stress high heat conditions I'm all for it, especially since it saves some cash..

If the factory oil is truly THE best thing (protection-wise) then I'd be more than happy to keep using it even with it's high price tag. I'm not worried about the warranty, it was thrown out the window around 10,000 miles ago. I've only got 11,000 miles on the odometer.

I'm not going to keep using factory fluid simply because the owners manual says so, especially if something else will better protect my investment for the purposes I intend.

 

One gentleman that raced T2 last year ran BG#2 without any gear breakage but I don't think that the oil cooler was large enough because of some signs of overheating. The oil cooler needs to be larger than one would tend too think if the car is going to be tracked for extended periods of time.

Jon@TRE

 

[QUOTE=JDMevoBOOST Do you guys think it would be a cheaper/easier rebuild with the tranny still in good condition or wait til it blows?[/QUOTE]
It's always less expensive to rebuild it before the transmission destroys itself.

Kinda like it cheaper to rebuild an engine that has rod knock before it window the block....

 

BGII is full synthetic

 

would you say razor's unit is substantial enough? Speaking of using a cooler such as that, I have a couple concerns..

1- how would you know when the case is "full", I assume do the math to figure the added volume of the pump, hoses, and radiator unit?

2- would running without the pump turned on cause a problem by overfilling the transmission case?

 

doh! thanks for the corrrection. I could have sworn one of the BG's are dino.