other camber plates can be found by

Works - they are similar in construction to the tein/JIC units
Ground control - these are good, but somewhat hard to install. It's best to send your coilovers to ground control to get the proper fitment.
Noltec - yes noltec. Aussie plates, very very hard to get, but its possible.

both the ground control and noltec plates offer caster adjustment.

 

...and only about double the price... like all of their products

 

Back to the lightweight wheel discussion - anyone have a source for

"Custom CP-035R 2-piece 18x10.5= 15.21 lbs"

I found the plain CP-035 one piece, but nothing in an 18" size. . .

I just need something lighter than my 20# rocks!

 

Jesus, 15.21 lbs for 18X10.5

FWIW, the 18X9.5 NT03+Ms were 19.5lbs on my scale.

 

How light are you looking for..under/around 16lbs? Aren't the Volk RE30's pretty light and strong? They seem to be easy to get also.
My Forgelines are 18lbs with titanium hardware. The 3 piece design also allows for offset changes by changing the shells. As you know, my rear are being rebuilt for better rear clearance.

 

Now this might be a noob question but do you really need to have a caster adjustment on a strut car? Don't you loose camber when you increase caster and vise-versa?

 

The EVO already comes with plenty of caster from the factory that is why a lot of aftermarket companies don't have caster adjustment. No you don't lose camber when you increase caster.

 

Those same aftermarket companies don't offer caster adjustment for other cars either. Probably not worth the extra $ and complexity for something not marketable or needed for street cars.

As John T. stated, the Evo needs a fair amount of neg camber - which lessens the tire contact patch for braking. An caster is increased, neg camber is gained as the wheel is turned - think of a chopper with raked forks.

Caster plates may be not offered or needed for road racing, but they could be more effective for autocross where the wheels are turned more - which is why we ended up having to make them for ourselves.

 

increasing caster increases the dynamic camber change when turning. This means that you will get more negative camber when turning.

This does increase bumpsteer, but the whiteline anti-roll kit corrects most of this depending on how much caster you run.

you can never have too much caster. The Evo only has 3.5 degrees from the factory, adding an additional degree not only help increase the dynamic caster change, but also helps the car "self correct", meaning that the car will want to track in a straight line and really helps remove the "twitchiness" from really aggresive alignments. I can't imagine this would be a bad thing on a road racing setup.

 

Anyone upgrade their brakes in SM? If so, what did you go with? Pads on the upgraded system?

 

I would think that any prepped SM Evo would have upgraded brakes. I personally have the standard brake upgrade kit from VIP Garage that consists of:

- Slotted rotors
- SS lines
- Super Blue ATE fluid
- Hawk HP+ pads

 

I went with Girodiscs, but only to save weight. The stock brakes stop well enough, but are fairly heavy. I'm using Porterfield pads.

 

My opinion is that the evo braking system is pretty adequate for autocross. The only thing that might need replacement are: a)The lines for better feel b) Fluid can be upgraded although I have never had any issues with factory. Some might argue that the rotors need to be adressed for weight and heat dissipation but do not expect substantial gain from them. As far as pads are concerned, from experience, it's primordial to get something that give you a good initial bite, heat up quick enough, do not overheat and are not too hard that you can't modulate(kind of like an On Off switch and not to much in betweeen). Some of the super duper road race pads will give you nothing usable for your first cold stop and by the time they heat up your run is over. A refference point is that I had better sucsess with hawk HPS than the previous HP+, so choose wisely.

 

What about front splitters? I'm currently splitterless and was wondering what other's were running and why.

I understand EVOlutionary has some custom deal?

Is the ARP front splitter worth a darn? Will it shatter when I hit cones?

 

I have power slots with hps pads and they feel pretty damn good. but i think no matter the pad (except the top end road racing ones ) u can over come issues just by getting used to them.

but i am pleased with my hawks.


as for splitters i thought about it but i feel they stick out a bit to much and might hit a cone when u might have avoided it if u didnt have one. maybe i'll try it out one day.