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Autocross EVO - Street Modified Build

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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 07:32 AM
  #211  
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I have upgraded Stoptech SS brake lines, use ATE super blue and Hawk HP+ pads, I'm waiting for my stock rotors to get eaten up before I move to slotted. Eventually I'll move into SM as my car will turn into a road course vehicle rather than autox and will probably upgrade from the stock brembos.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 07:53 AM
  #212  
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Originally Posted by chrisw
you can never have too much caster. The Evo only has 3.5 degrees from the factory, adding an additional degree not only help increase the dynamic caster change, but also helps the car "self correct", meaning that the car will want to track in a straight line and really helps remove the "twitchiness" from really aggresive alignments. I can't imagine this would be a bad thing on a road racing setup.
It'll also make the steering harder to turn ... and you'll need Conan the Barberian arms just to turn the steering wheel (joke) ... plus how long are you in a straight line during an auto-x course anyways? .... No doubt it provides dynamic camber change in the front during dive but if you are running stiffer springs how much more dive are you really getting? Anyways it's all about compromises when it comes to tuning suspension ...
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 08:02 AM
  #213  
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Why are you guys getting slotted rotors? They will chew your pads up quicker and provide less frictional area and less area to dissipate heat. I would stick with blanks. Two piece rotors (not drilled or slotted) would be the best upgrade to shed weight.

As far as pads, Hawk HP+ requires some heat before they work properly. Hawk HPS works right away cold. HPS would be better unless you are fading them (which would require extremely fast long courses, unless you are overbraking for turns). They are a lot less $ too.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 08:06 AM
  #214  
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I run stock pads typically, I tried more aggressive pads and they really needed to be hot to get them to work properly...
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 11:38 AM
  #215  
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Originally Posted by #2 SM
Is the ARP front splitter worth a darn?
No. Unless it is your only available option, it is definitely not the best. It will make less than 1/2 the downforce of a properly designed splitter/undertray that is made specifically for the evo and for our rules.

But, for the racer on a budget looking for a gain, for the $$ it is not bad. Especially if you can pick one up used. My buddy got one for $180 shipped!

An updated version of this will be available in the spring:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=215186

Last edited by EVOlutionary; Feb 23, 2007 at 11:50 AM.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 12:14 PM
  #216  
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Originally Posted by DaWorstPlaya
It'll also make the steering harder to turn ...
Yes, but only by a little bit. It's hardly noticable.

and you'll need Conan the Barberian arms just to turn the steering wheel (joke) ... plus how long are you in a straight line during an auto-x course anyways? .... No doubt it provides dynamic camber change in the front during dive but if you are running stiffer springs how much more dive are you really getting? Anyways it's all about compromises when it comes to tuning suspension ...
I am still getting enough front diving to lift the inside rear. The caster also helps reduce the effects of a very aggressive front alignment that has toe out for extra turn-in bite.

overall I highly recommend extra caster if you can do it. especially if you are street driving your autocross evo...
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 12:16 PM
  #217  
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Originally Posted by EVO8LTW
Why are you guys getting slotted rotors? They will chew your pads up quicker and provide less frictional area and less area to dissipate heat. I would stick with blanks. Two piece rotors (not drilled or slotted) would be the best upgrade to shed weight.

As far as pads, Hawk HP+ requires some heat before they work properly. Hawk HPS works right away cold. HPS would be better unless you are fading them (which would require extremely fast long courses, unless you are overbraking for turns). They are a lot less $ too.

so far, my slotted rotors and hawk HPS pads have lasted 2 seasons of autocross and almost +60k miles of street driving.

what wear are you refering too?
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 04:34 PM
  #218  
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Originally Posted by chrisw
so far, my slotted rotors and hawk HPS pads have lasted 2 seasons of autocross and almost +60k miles of street driving.
One set of pads?
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 04:12 AM
  #219  
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Originally Posted by chrisw
so far, my slotted rotors and hawk HPS pads have lasted 2 seasons of autocross and almost +60k miles of street driving.

what wear are you refering too?
I'm referring to the excessive wear that a number of my friends have had using slotting rotors, though they were using their cars on the track. I guess if you are just autocrossing (which isn't that hard on brakes) and doing a lot of highway driving it doesn't matter. But I don't think you'll find a single person who tracks their car regularly and has used both blanks and slotted and prefers slotted. Besides, other than looks, what advantage do they offer?
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 04:33 AM
  #220  
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Originally Posted by EVO8LTW
I'm referring to the excessive wear that a number of my friends have had using slotting rotors, though they were using their cars on the track. I guess if you are just autocrossing (which isn't that hard on brakes) and doing a lot of highway driving it doesn't matter. But I don't think you'll find a single person who tracks their car regularly and has used both blanks and slotted and prefers slotted. Besides, other than looks, what advantage do they offer?
they do continually clean the pad surface. IE: knock out high spots, etc.

which.... increases wear
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 05:09 PM
  #221  
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Originally Posted by Slowride
One set of pads?
yes one set of pads.

Track days are definately different. Even with non-slotted rotors I have heard that it's pretty easy to go through a set of pads in a day on the track.
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 07:46 PM
  #222  
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Originally Posted by EVOlutionary
No. Unless it is your only available option, it is definitely not the best. It will make less than 1/2 the downforce of a properly designed splitter/undertray that is made specifically for the evo and for our rules.

But, for the racer on a budget looking for a gain, for the $$ it is not bad. Especially if you can pick one up used. My buddy got one for $180 shipped!

An updated version of this will be available in the spring:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=215186
Great info

Thanks!
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 11:56 PM
  #223  
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Originally Posted by chrisw
yes one set of pads.

Track days are definately different. Even with non-slotted rotors I have heard that it's pretty easy to go through a set of pads in a day on the track.
if thats the case, the pads being used are the complete wrong compound and temp range.

Again, track time varies, but i'd guess at 1500-2000 miles per a set of front pads (track miles)
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 08:24 AM
  #224  
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I'm sorry for posting a BSP specific question on The SM thread and the reason is that I did not want to start a new one since most bsp guys hang in here too. I wanted to know, since the rules for SP allows the use of cam gears, are any of you guys using them with the stock cams? What are the gains in term of hp/tq and most importantly powerband shift? In theory we should be able to at least be able to fatten the area under the curve.
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 10:44 AM
  #225  
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Originally Posted by madmax199
I'm sorry for posting a BSP specific question on The SM thread and the reason is that I did not want to start a new one since most bsp guys hang in here too. I wanted to know, since the rules for SP allows the use of cam gears, are any of you guys using them with the stock cams? What are the gains in term of hp/tq and most importantly powerband shift? In theory we should be able to at least be able to fatten the area under the curve.
You should be able to shift the power band do get better low end (more important IMO). How much I am not sure.

I plan on doing this myself, but my money is better spent on suspension/tires first.

John
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