This is what I'll be wearing at BeaveRun, Nelson and Mid Ohio in the very near future.

http://www.hotlapmotorsports.com/pro...0&idproduct=17

 

If I use the hawk DTC can I drive the car on the street to track? Somebudy do it like this?

 

Yes, you can drive to the track on these. They will just squeal and **** everyone off. I always drive to the track on my race pads. That way I dont have to worry with changing them at the track and can spend time doing other stuff, like setting up my canopy and sitting in my chair.

jeff

 

How the ferodo 3000 compare with the DTC.

 

+1 But I run the ST41 front with ST43 rear. The 41 is a bit higher torque than the 43, but both are stellar...

 

I have been buying mine at http://livermoreperformance.com but I hear you can also get them at http://www.porterfield-brakes.com

 

What rotors would those be? You do have to keep them hot or they will to eat rotor. But while hot I have not experienced "outrageous" wear on the stock rotors. Friends of mine are fine on other cars with various after-market rotors Wilwood, Baer, etc...

One other note though. If you run street tires or R compounds, the 41 might be a bit much torque depending on tire width...used best with slicks. 43 is probably a better pad to start with. Here is some info from Raybestos:

"ST38 - "B" slightly lower mu than ST42. Wear still not as good as ST41. Good performance over broad temperature range with minimal rotor wear. Successful in a broad range of racing series. Use in dirt where you want less bite than ST41/ST43.

ST41 - "A" the best high energy input racing material available. Extremely successful in all the top three NASCAR series Raced by the 2002 NASCAR Champion Tony Stewart. Maintains high mu level at extremely high temperatures without sacrificing good wear - both pad and rotor. Needs some heat to work well.

ST42 - "J" lower mu than ST41 and ST43. Extremely stable average and in stop output over a wide temperature range. Has been very successful when used on the rear in conjunction with 41 on the front. Best high-temperature wear of all their materials.

ST43 - Friction level and wear rate between ST41 and ST42. Stability is not quite as good as 42 but better than 41. Excellent open wheel formula."

Cheers!
Ethan

 

Seems like the "T2 racer guys"on this board have gravitated to the DTC's... in all honesty, they bite hard... never overheat.. keep biting... and last forever!

You really cant ask for more from a brake pad that you can drive to the track. My buddy in a full weight STI went 9 events in a full weight car on the DTC's and still has more.

-Kyle

 

I'm sure Marty isn't talking about overheating the pads as much as he is putting too much heat into the system (caliper/rotor/fluid) over the course of a 40min+ race. Having pads that are agreesive enough to stop you when you want, but not so much that they induce too much heat are important. Much like car setup and tire selection, brake pads need to match the driver... so figure out what works for you and stick with them. So far I run PF01s front and rear, but have to remember to keep my foot of the center pedal unless I really need it

 

Yeah... Marty swears by them, but when I tried them they scored a brand new set of rotors in twelve laps and vibrated like heck... I know of another T2 Evo driver that has had a similar vibration issue with the the DTC-70s, who knows I may give them another shot later in the year, but for now I'll stick with what I know works.

 

Racing Brake just put out two new sets of pads that I will be trying out. They should match well with their rotors and the big boys are good to 1400f which is fine by me. They also cost a good bit less than the DTCs so thats a plus as well. To top it off the folks at RB tell me that they are street capable and told me that I should try the race pads on the front with the medium pads on the rear and use them on street and track.

I have days at Nelson and Mid Ohio coming up and both places will test brakes so we'll see. Kyle is stocking them at Hot Lap motorsports so if they turn out to be as good as I hope we will have a great source right here on the boards!

 

Nelson only has 1 medium-hard braking zone, it's nothing compared to Mid-Ohio. The track is so bumpy after the kink you can't brake that hard anyway! My dirtly little secret: I only shift twice on a lap around Nelson.

Low $200s for a set of front pads is attractive, though, if they can really perform like XP10s or HT10s. I'm skeptical that the finesse guys would think they're the equal of the DTCs.

Dave

 

Actually both, the PF01's and XP-12's got so hot they start to crumble and score the rotors. The heat is also causing my SRF fluid to boil. DTCs seem to be better at dealing with the heat and since they dont have quite the same initial bite as the others, they seem to stay cooler and therefor don't transfer that heat to my caliper/fluid. I actually melted the caliper piston. Also, DTCs seem more linear to me so I feel like I have better control of the brakes.
Marty

 

I started overheating my XP11 down the front of NHIS going in to 2a once I got a bit faster, I have yet to overheat my XP12s, but then again, I only had one day at Limerock with them.

 

Well...to paraphrase Bill Clinton, it depends what your definition of "street capable" is. If your goal is to find a good track pad that also works well on the street, you need to find a new goal. It has been said over and over on these forums, but apparently it bears repeating: Track pads are not for the street. They will make noise and eat your rotors when driven on the street. Street pads are not for the track. They will not hold up to the heat of repeated heavy braking on the track. You can't have both street and track working well in one pad! But of course there are exceptions to this rule. Most guys (myself included) will drive from the track to the hotel on Saturday night with the race pads installed. Hell, I even roll Hoosiers on the street just between track and hotel when the weather's dry. It's not worth the effort to swap for a simple five-mile trip. And yes, a guy going to the track for the first time who isn't gonna push too hard might be fine with his street pads for a gentle session or two. But as soon as he starts repeatedly braking hard, he will cook the street pads. And anyone driving with track pads on the street for extended periods is just asking for trouble.

So if you're going to the track, get dedicated track pads, bring some jack stands, and start swapping! You'll have a much better time and so will your brakes.

By the way, I've ordered the Racing Brake slotted front rotors and DTC-60 pads from Kyle at Hotlapmotorsports.com. They are on the way!