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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 07:31 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by boomn29
Had my first event yesterday with PFC01 pads all around. Not sure if I like these pads. I don't think they were bedded in well enough at first, as the wheel would shake if I didn't brake in a very straight line. Also, it looked like I had previous pad residue on my rotors. Either way, things got better after my 2nd session.

They really bite, but seem VERY difficult to modulate. There's very little range from no brake to near lockup! Dunno if this is how good pads work that are brand new or not? It made it nearly impossible for me to heel/toe; had to relearn how with the different pedal range, but probably to be expected.

Man do these things squeal now! I knew they'd squeal on the street when I drove to/from events, but surprised how much they squeal on the track!


Can anyone speak to the modulation issue?
I obivously had to relearn all my braking zones for the track, as I was braking too early and thus scrubbing too much speed. I believe my overall times from my last trip to Putnam didn't improve as I was really having to learn the brakes - and my group was pretty crowded.
Figured I'd update everyone on my PFC01's.
3 days on track now with them, including 1 day in the rain. Overall I'm really liking the pads. The on/off modulation issue I didn't like has gone away. I'm assuming it was mostly attributed to a new 7/16" pad and just my personal learning curve. I was able to heel/toe last time out continually and brake deep into corners with confidence repeatedly.

I might have gotten these too hot last time out though. I did not experience fade, but when I would go out for my later sessions, I had to pump the brake pedal back up to 'firm up' the pedal. Reminded me of the feeling you get after bleeding your brakes and you have to 'firm up' the pedal. Brake fluid level was spot on, so there were no leaks.
My calipers have darkened a bit, but not like I expected. Kinda sad really....lol.

My setup:
PFC01's all around, 255/40-17 RA1's, Motul. Stock rotors; no cooling ducts; no front undertray.

Last edited by boomn29; Sep 12, 2007 at 07:58 AM.
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 08:48 AM
  #77  
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It sounds like you might have slightly boiled your brake fluid. Time for some brake cooling. Oh yeah, put that undertray back on. It helps guide air towards the brakes too.
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 09:27 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by boomn29

My setup:
PFC01's all around, 255/40-17 RA1's, Motul. Stock rotors; no cooling ducts; no front undertray.

Get yourself some Castrol SRF brake fluid and you won't have that issue.
Marty
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 09:44 AM
  #79  
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I bought way too much SRF and i'm looking to sell it for my cost if anyone needs it.

Kyle
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 09:45 AM
  #80  
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Yeah, I'd add some cooling to your setup. I was boiing fluid every session until I added brake ducts... As for the ABS, you can just pull the 60a fuse under the hood and you'll be fine. I've been running without it for most of the season after I melted through both front abs sensor harnesses.
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 11:07 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by Galant VR-4 #34
Get yourself some Castrol SRF brake fluid and you won't have that issue.
Marty
That about it, but I've got like 5 pints of Motul still! I think, I mean know, I need some brake cooling ducts as I work my way up. That's in the plans for the 'off-season'; lol.
Originally Posted by marksae
It sounds like you might have slightly boiled your brake fluid. Time for some brake cooling. Oh yeah, put that undertray back on. It helps guide air towards the brakes too.
Boiled; really? I'm running Motul as is, and the sessions were probably 15min since I was pulling off early as I had students that day. Track was Gateway Int'l.
I've had the undertray off of both my Evo's. After I put on the exhaust I've just never put it back on. Suppose I could cut it a bit for the new intercooler and put it back on. Possible 'off-season' update.
I would think the Evo would be a bit more aerodynamic with it on too.
Originally Posted by 992gnt
Yeah, I'd add some cooling to your setup. I was boiing fluid every session until I added brake ducts... As for the ABS, you can just pull the 60a fuse under the hood and you'll be fine. I've been running without it for most of the season after I melted through both front abs sensor harnesses.
Where exactly are the sensors, I'm thinking it'd be a good idea to wrap these to help prevent melting? If so, wrap with what? I think Kyle said he's melted these too.

Last edited by boomn29; Sep 4, 2007 at 02:25 PM.
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 11:31 AM
  #82  
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Do the front dust shields have any effect on cooling if you don't have ducting? Are you guys who are melting harnesses doing that with the dust sheild removed or on?
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 01:42 PM
  #83  
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Trimmed the dust shield - melted the harnesses. Removed the dust shields, repaired the harnesses, tied them back to the hub, added Forge duct kit - melted again (not as bad though!). Now they're covered in heat wrap, hopefully that does the trick. If not, I'll just leave the abs non-functional. Taught me better pedal modulation anyways...
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 04:49 PM
  #84  
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"Where exactly are the sensors, I'm thinking it'd be a good idea to wrap these to help prevent melting? If so, wrap with what? I think Kyle said he's melted these too."


I will wrap them in heat wrap but a good zip tie job to the lower control arm does the trick. Also, for the later Evos with the active center diffs, when you melt those sensors it also knocks out the center diff controller (ask Me how I know) The result is your center diff remains in full lock, not unlocking when you turn as it should. This is very good for sliding the rear of the car around like a pro rally driver in the dirt, but if you push it in this condition on the pavement, you may end up with a broken rear diff (ask Me how I know). Sell the Motul back to the French and get the SRF and cooling kit, I like My AMS kit personally.
Marty

Last edited by Galant VR-4 #34; Sep 4, 2007 at 04:53 PM.
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 05:12 PM
  #85  
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Is there any reason to leave the dust shield on for track usage? Can the ball joints get fried? I have no sensors, as I have an RS. Thanks.
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 05:20 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by EVO8LTW
Is there any reason to leave the dust shield on for track usage? Can the ball joints get fried? I have no sensors, as I have an RS. Thanks.
Not that I know of Ive raced for two seasons without them and other than the forgotten zip tie mishap, I have never had an issue. With the AMS brake kit, you have to remove them anyways.
Marty
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 08:01 AM
  #87  
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Another PFC01 Update

Originally Posted by boomn29
Figured I'd update everyone on my PFC01's.
3 days on track now with them, including 1 day in the rain. Overall I'm really liking the pads. The on/off modulation issue I didn't like has gone away. I'm assuming it was mostly attributed to a new 7/16" pad and just my personal learning curve. I was able to heel/toe last time out continually and brake deep into corners with confidence repeatedly.

I might have gotten these too hot last time out though. I did not experience fade, but when I would go out for my later sessions, I had to pump the brake pedal back up to 'firm up' the pedal. Reminded me of the feeling you get after bleeding your brakes and you have to 'firm up' the pedal. Brake fluid level was spot on, so there were no leaks.
My calipers have darkened a bit, but not like I expected. Kinda sad really....lol.

My setup:
PFC01's all around, 255/40-17 RA1's, Motul. Stock rotors; no cooling ducts; no front undertray.
Update time.

Took the pads off the other night to put my street pads back on. I've used about 3/32" of pad on the fronts. Have no idea if that's normal, or how to guage pad life at this point.

I have 2 full warm track days (3 full tanks of gas total) on these, 1 rainy day (about 3/4 tank gas) and street driving. I'd wager 220 miles on-track in dry; 100 miles on track wet (reduced braking obiously) and 1000 street miles.
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 08:32 AM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by boomn29
Update time.

Took the pads off the other night to put my street pads back on. I've used about 3/32" of pad on the fronts. Have no idea if that's normal, or how to guage pad life at this point.

I have 2 full warm track days (3 full tanks of gas total) on these, 1 rainy day (about 3/4 tank gas) and street driving. I'd wager 220 miles on-track in dry; 100 miles on track wet (reduced braking obiously) and 1000 street miles.
You only get 110 track miles on a full dry track day? Must be a slow track or a club that gives you very little track time. I was at Summit Point with PCA on Monday and, in the dry, was averaging about 40 miles per session (5 sessions per day).

Are the street miles mostly highway to get to the track (i.e., little brake usage)?
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 10:36 AM
  #89  
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I lost my ABS due to a semi-fried or dirty sensor and when I'm no track with no ABS the brake bias appears to be way off with ABS.
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 10:57 AM
  #90  
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I've used Pagid RS14s up front for a long time and just put Ferodo DS2500's in the back. I really like the RS14s but they dust a lot (and by a lot I mean I'll wash the wheels, and an hour later they need to be washed again) and they aren't quiet all the time. They mostly only squeal just after they go through a car wash though, or low-speed stop and go traffic. And for those of you who think running the 2nd most aggressive race pad Pagid makes on the street is dumb...well you don't drive like I do...I've overheated hawk blues on the street with RBF600 fluid and I'm not kidding....but the RS14's I can mash all day long on the street, track, auto-x, whatever and they don't fade much if at all...

Last edited by machron1; Sep 12, 2007 at 11:00 AM.
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