Rear Bump Steer Correction Kit
I installed the same bushings and mine was also a bit more prone to negative toe. You can rotate the ovals out a tiny bit to help. -.7 rear total toe is not bad at all. It will help keep the rear a bit more stable. I ran a small amount of negative toe in the rear and positive in the front.
Toe out in the rear is a major no no unless you like the back end to come around front. Might be able to get some of it taken care of with rotating the ovals inwards a bit. Whats your height from the front and rear of the bottom and most outside edges of the sideskirts?
Toe out in the rear is a major no no unless you like the back end to come around front. Might be able to get some of it taken care of with rotating the ovals inwards a bit. Whats your height from the front and rear of the bottom and most outside edges of the sideskirts?
Almost a 2 year bump here. Bushings installed today as well with some trailing arm bushings. My alignment before for the rear was -1.3 camber and 0 toe. I'm on FA500 coils at an ideal ride height. Again everything was installed correctly. At the alignment shop and trying to Zero out the toe and can only max it out with -.7x of toe(Toe Out). Anyone have any suggestions of why this is happening or what I can do to fix it? As of now we raised the camber to -2.1 to get the toe to 0. I would like to get my camber back to -1.3-1.5 WITHOUT raising the ride height.
Sounds like the car is too raked out for "ideal" ride height? At least from a performance perspective. The car should be basically level front to rear (which means the back will look lower relative to the fender opening) to put the suspension in more optimal geometry.
Also, depending on the rest of the setup, 2 degrees of camber in the rear is about right.
Also, depending on the rest of the setup, 2 degrees of camber in the rear is about right.
[QUOTE=03whitegsr;11558325]Sounds like the car is too raked out for "ideal" ride height? At least from a performance perspective. The car should be basically level front to rear (which means the back will look lower relative to the fender opening) to put the suspension in more optimal geometry.
Dropped the rear to level out the car. Went back to the alignment shop and was able to get thepassenger side camber down to 1.7 and Zero Toe. Not where I want but almost half a degree closer than before. The driver side however didn't change. Measured the height a few times to make sure the height was correct on both sides. LCA bushings are whiteline with 10k miles on them. this leaves my young self scratching my head
Dropped the rear to level out the car. Went back to the alignment shop and was able to get thepassenger side camber down to 1.7 and Zero Toe. Not where I want but almost half a degree closer than before. The driver side however didn't change. Measured the height a few times to make sure the height was correct on both sides. LCA bushings are whiteline with 10k miles on them. this leaves my young self scratching my head
PROBLEM SOLVED! Since the toe arm was installed with the car on the lift, the bushings never settled. Just loosened the arm on both sides while the suspension settled and problem fixed!
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