How did you come about this information? Have you experienced something similar and subsequently figured out how to remedy it?
I don't really understand why it happens on grippy surfaces but not slick surfaces. Unless I'm getting so much more weight transfer on concrete that the traction loss on the inside front there is "more" than the traction loss on the inside front that I'd see on slick asphalt?
I guess I just need a bigger splitter and couple more big canards to keep the front planted and reduce front wheel spin!!

I don't really understand why it happens on grippy surfaces but not slick surfaces. Unless I'm getting so much more weight transfer on concrete that the traction loss on the inside front there is "more" than the traction loss on the inside front that I'd see on slick asphalt?
I guess I just need a bigger splitter and couple more big canards to keep the front planted and reduce front wheel spin!!

Evolved Member
jarrod what work did you get done on your car? i saw a few posts back that you said you had to take it to the body shop? mine went in today to get the fenders put on, ill post pics as soon as i get her back
Quote:
Good deduction
It is definitely more predictable and smoother (the VCU center diff, that is). It doesn't have the ultimate torque transfer/control that the ACD does, though. I think both can be very fast Originally Posted by GTB/ZR-1
Hmmmm, maybe the old-school non-ACD setup in the VIII may not be such a bad thing... Good deduction
Quote:
Nothing yet. In the shop now for some maintenance. Ripped off one of the wheel speed sensor lines to the front drivers side last weekend. I couldn't figure out why all 3 ACD lights were coming on! Well, when I took it off the trailer today I saw the wires hanging under the car. . . . Originally Posted by evobeatsti
jarrod what work did you get done on your car? i saw a few posts back that you said you had to take it to the body shop? mine went in today to get the fenders put on, ill post pics as soon as i get her back
I was going to play around with a wider wheel in the front, but it looks like even though it should clear the fenders it may need extensive work to the bumper, splitter, and rear wheel well to clear under full lock . . .
Quote:
I don't really understand why it happens on grippy surfaces but not slick surfaces. Unless I'm getting so much more weight transfer on concrete that the traction loss on the inside front there is "more" than the traction loss on the inside front that I'd see on slick asphalt?
I guess I just need a bigger splitter and couple more big canards to keep the front planted and reduce front wheel spin!!
Hey I said it was a hint...i can't give away all the answers for free. Originally Posted by EVOlutionary
How did you come about this information? Have you experienced something similar and subsequently figured out how to remedy it? I don't really understand why it happens on grippy surfaces but not slick surfaces. Unless I'm getting so much more weight transfer on concrete that the traction loss on the inside front there is "more" than the traction loss on the inside front that I'd see on slick asphalt?
I guess I just need a bigger splitter and couple more big canards to keep the front planted and reduce front wheel spin!!
although i'm sure there are several different ways to fix it.
Quote:
although i'm sure there are several different ways to fix it.
Well . . . you could give away all the secrets for free. Originally Posted by griceiv
Hey I said it was a hint...i can't give away all the answers for free.
although i'm sure there are several different ways to fix it.
You tell me your secrets I'll tell you mine
- here's a free one to start with - when you're on a boat and have to take a leak - do NOT face into the wind!

Evolved Member
im trying to fit 10x5's in the front today and with any sort of agressive alignment it is a PIA. im trying to decide if i want a +15 wheel and have to cut the bumper, or if i want a +40 wheel which sits more than an inch inside the fenders and looks dumb...
and lets not even talk about how stupid my 18x9.5's look on the new fenders haha
and lets not even talk about how stupid my 18x9.5's look on the new fenders haha
Quote:
and lets not even talk about how stupid my 18x9.5's look on the new fenders haha
How about a +40 with a 10-15mm spacer. . . . Best of both worlds!Originally Posted by evobeatsti
im trying to fit 10x5's in the front today and with any sort of agressive alignment it is a PIA. im trying to decide if i want a +15 wheel and have to cut the bumper, or if i want a +40 wheel which sits more than an inch inside the fenders and looks dumb...and lets not even talk about how stupid my 18x9.5's look on the new fenders haha
And if you think 18x9.5's look bad with the wide fenders, try slapping on the stock wheels and tires with no spacers!

Evolved Member
yah, ill be doing that for open track days lol...
yah the +40 with spacers is what im looking at now... but you still have to cut up the bumper a little
yah the +40 with spacers is what im looking at now... but you still have to cut up the bumper a little
Evolved Member
I'm trying the 18x10.5s this weekend and am worried about rubbing issues on the back inside of the fender well, the fenders clear the wheels and tires by 1.25 inches but it feels like I might get rub at full steering lock, I'll see if I can document this. The garage hrs fenders are the real deal though, if your going wide get these, an 18x10.5 +38 with a 285 sits more than an inch inside the fenders, if you cut the bumper etc, you could go much wider
remember, the wider you go, the farther left and right you have to travel to get around cones. . .
So, you need to be sure the added grip and cornering speed of the wider track outweighs the diminished slalom speeds due driving farther around the cones. Basically, the amplitude of your slalom becomes greater with a wider track. . .
So, you need to be sure the added grip and cornering speed of the wider track outweighs the diminished slalom speeds due driving farther around the cones. Basically, the amplitude of your slalom becomes greater with a wider track. . .
Evolved Member
Quote:
So, you need to be sure the added grip and cornering speed of the wider track outweighs the diminished slalom speeds due driving farther around the cones. Basically, the amplitude of your slalom becomes greater with a wider track. . .
i think the track width is fine as the car felt awesome all weekend (except more cut wheel speed sensors at the end) I just cant keep up with my car now as it is much faster than the driver Originally Posted by EVOlutionary
remember, the wider you go, the farther left and right you have to travel to get around cones. . . So, you need to be sure the added grip and cornering speed of the wider track outweighs the diminished slalom speeds due driving farther around the cones. Basically, the amplitude of your slalom becomes greater with a wider track. . .
the wendover pro was very fun, and the berry's white evo is insanely fast. hopefully i can pick up some pointers from them when i join their region next year
ill post some good pics from the weekend in a few minsCongrats Riley - looks like you were the fastest SM car out there! Hopefully I didn't miss anyone. Sucks, though, that you got moved into a "bump" class. . .
Was there a decent drag start? Did you get near the top of 2nd gear before you got to the first big turn? It would be cool to see a course map . . .
What wheel/tire setup were you running? Were you on your 10.5's in the front? Did you have to cut some of your front bumper to get them to fit?
Sorry for all the questions!!
Was there a decent drag start? Did you get near the top of 2nd gear before you got to the first big turn? It would be cool to see a course map . . .
What wheel/tire setup were you running? Were you on your 10.5's in the front? Did you have to cut some of your front bumper to get them to fit?
Sorry for all the questions!!

We had a Solo Trials yesterday. Kind of like a wide open high speed autocross. I hit 98MPH just before the first left hand sweeper. Tapped the brakes, turned in, then accelerated in 4th gear through most of the corner until it became a decreasing radius leading into another straight. . . What a blast! The aero was definitely working! It felt like the faster I entered the corner the more grip I had . . . There's nothing like turning into a corner on an autocross course at 90+ MPH!
Set FTD, Top PAX, and Top MPH . . .
Set FTD, Top PAX, and Top MPH . . .


